Final Drive Oil Change 2006 K1200R - - Excellence in Motion
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 2007, 1:25 pm Thread Starter
Coastie's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Mobile-ish, Alabama, USA
Posts: 646
Final Drive Oil Change 2006 K1200R

**I am on K-Bikes almost daily, but I do not often check this Tech forum. If you have a question on this procedure, please PM me, and I'll answer it, and if relevant, will post your question/reply here to the thread.**

Due to incompetent “Certified BMW Mechanics” (see thread HERE ) I changed my final drive oil today only 3 days after paying a dealership do it. I was looking for any damage they may have caused by not correctly filling the final drive oil. They only used 30ml rather than 230ml, and I rode 200 miles home like that.

If you do not have a factory magnetic drain plug, purchase one from your dealer before doing this procedure. Bikes prior to model year 2007 do NOT have a factory magnetic drain plug. Read entire procedure and understand it before beginning.

To begin with, I do not have a center stand, so I needed to create something to get the rear of the bike high enough to pivot the final drive down, and have enough clearance from the ground. I chose to make a large sawhorse.
I went to Home Depot and bought the supplies.

2x4 8 foot long $2.50 each, used three = $7.50
Sawhorse Brackets Set $5.00

Total cost was around $12.50

I cut two of the 2x4x8 into 4 foot lengths (four – four foot lengths)
I put a 13º angle on one end of each 2x4x4. The angle will go on the bottom when you screw it all together, this allows the bottoms to sit flush to the ground when sitting in the angled sawhorse bracket.

I cut the last 2x4 and used a 5 foot section. (3 feet left over)
Screw it all together and this is the final outcome.

Here are the steps I used:

1. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts ( T50 ) Easier to do this while the rear tire is on the ground and not spinning while in the air.
2. Hoist rear of bike using sawhorse. I used a sportbike chock to hold the front end, and used my pitbull stand on the rear to have the rear already off the ground. I had some ‘soft tiedowns’ that I looped around the pannier brackets. I attached ratcheting straps through the soft tiedowns and over the sawhorse. Then just ratcheted the straps to hoist the bike up off the pitbull stand, then removed the pitbull stand. Hoist until the rear wheel is between 5 and 6 inches off the deck

3. Remove the lug nuts and the rear wheel ( T50 )
4. Loosen the rear drain plug ( T45 )
5. Loosen the speed sensor screw ( T25 )

6. Remove rear Paralever bolt ( T50 and 16mm wrench ) Use one hand to support the drive when you remove the bolt. Apply slight upward pressure to allow the bolt to slide out. Lower the drive to about 30º, it will rest on the driveshaft. Take a look inside and see the two things you need to separate.
7. separate the pinion shaft from the universal shaft and pivot the rear-wheel drive down. I found it worked when I used my thumb and index finger to press the shaft forward. A slight rotation of the brake rotor helped it to release. It took about 30 seconds of fiddling, so give it some time. It only needs a bit of pressure and it WILL release, just work with it. Support the bottom of the drive with one hand to help release pressure on the shaft, and because it will swing down when it releases.

8. Remove Drain plug ( T45 ) allow to drain into suitable container. Inspect drain plug for metal shavings. If you do not have a factory magnetic drain plug, purchase one from your dealer before doing this procedure.

9. Remove Speed sensor screw, and use fingers to remove speed sensor. You may need to rotate the brake rotor to get good access, then be careful not to spin the rotor once the speed sensor is out, or you could pinch it. I flushed the drive through the speed sensor hole a few times with new oil as an extra precaution, but the oil came out clean (even tilted and spun the gear via the rotor) so flushing may be unnecessary.

Now to reassemble:

10. clean the splines of the parts you separated in step 7 and apply a light coat of fresh optimoly or a suitable replacement such as ‘Honda Moly60’ or ‘LocTite Moly Paste’. I choose LocTite Moly paste because it is packaged better for my use. It is a small resealable jar with a brush built into the cap. It is also 65% moly, and I ordered it online for around $20. Honda Moly is 60% moly, and comes in a small tube that you could load into a grease gun. The tube is not designed to be resealed, and a grease gun is not good for this application, though you could just dip a brush into the tube and use it that way. Honda Moly60 is cheaper and often available at your local Honda cycle shop, cost is around $15 in my area. These are expensive lubricants, but a tube/jar will last years and years. Plenty included to do 30+ bikes.
11. CLEAN and install the speed sensor flush so it is not in the way of a spinning rotor. Do NOT put the speed sensor screw in.
12. raise the drive assemble and slip the pinion shaft and the universal shaft back together. As before, spin the rotor to help them line up, and support the drive at the bottom to remove pressure to help get them together.
13. install the rear paralever bolt ( T50 and 16mm wrench ) and torque to 43Nm
14. Install the Rear Drain Plug ( T45 ) and torque to 20Nm
15 Remove the speed sensor again. Using the speed sensor hole, fill final drive with 230ml (cc is the same as ml) of the appropriate gear oil. I used Mobile1 75W/140. The M1 was darker and more red than the BMW gear lube. I used a MixMizer from the auto parts area of Wal-Mart to help with filling. It was less than $5, and worked great. Note the oil bottle in this image is not what I used for this replacement procedure. It is what I added as makeup oil when the dealership screwed up their fill.

16. clean any spilled oil, and take time to inspect your rear brakes and clean everything while you have the wheel off. Make sure there is no remaining oil on any of the brake parts.
17. install the speed sensor and speed sensor screw ( T25 ) hand tight only
18 install rear wheel, snug but do not torque lug nuts ( T50 )
19. Lower rear of bike onto pitbull stand SLOWLY and EVENLY, and then to the ground.
20. Torque lug nuts ( T50 ) to 60Nm
21 Inspect bike for anything not completed or forgotten.

It worked well for me, your mileage may vary

**Note, you can also bottle some used oil and send it off for analysis like I did for the very first change** view that HERE
Miggy likes this.

Last edited by Razel; Sep 3rd, 2007 at 2:42 pm. Reason: Tool size correction
Coastie is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 2007, 7:18 pm
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 438
Thanks for your clear and concise instructions on changing the final drive oil. I didn't remove the speed sensor. I was able to refill through drain plug hole. Being a cattle rancher I have a large selection of syringes.
My bike just had the final drive replaced at the 18,000 mile inspection because of excessive play.
I measured what came out, 230 ml, a little black with very little fuzz on the drain plug. The worst part of the whole procedure was the 97 degree heat in my garage!
I see how your dealer screwed up the draining by not disconnecting the U-joint. You have to completely disconnect the splines from the u-joint as your pictures show.
I refilled with BMW Super Synthetic 75-140 ( as per my local dealer recommendation). It looks like the BMW Synthetic 75-90 has been discontinued and Castrol SAF-XO is not marketed in the USA. Another dealer I talked to uses Mobil I 75-90 Synthetic.
Really a simple procedure. Anyone should be able to do it, even your former dealer.
Norris Cooper Andover Kansas USA
06 K1200GT
93 K1100RS
ncooper is offline  
post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 2007, 12:52 pm
"Alpha Squirrel" and nutcracker.
2tall2fall's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: The " Jersey Shore" in the mountains of Toms River, New Jersey, USA
Posts: 2,029
Great job Jeff.....

Pain heals, chicks dig scars, glory.....lasts forever. Shane Falco,"The Replacements" 00'
7.1 and done...06' K1200R-EZ Tuning Exhaust, EVO billet clutch slave, Evo dual race filter kit, Braking 'Wave' rotors and pads, Triton2 tail, Vario levers, Evo peg lowering kit, SW Motech crash bars, R&G sliders full set, Nippy Norman's rear fiberglass hugger, CRG bar end mirrors, ACS shield, RhinoMoto bar end sliders and CRG mounts, Evoluzione o2 modifier, Pazzo "shorty" levers, Cortech Sport Tail Bag and Saddlebags.....

Last edited by 2tall2fall; Aug 27th, 2007 at 1:12 pm.
2tall2fall is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 2007, 8:49 pm
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 12
same for 06 KGT?

Is the final drive oil sae75w-140 per the picture? Would the procedure be exactly the same?
I have a center tand on the GT wiill it get the rear wheel high enough?
iehrlich is offline  
post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 2007, 6:29 am
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 86
Hey All,

I used Jeff's instructions, but used a jack from Harbor Freight to lift my bike (had it already). I removed the belly pan and placed (2) 2x2's the length of the bike and aligned across the jack pads.

I have two more bikes to do and will take pics.

Here's the jack I used:
bbqshrimp is offline  
post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 20th, 2007, 6:45 pm
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Malibu, CA, USA
Posts: 622
I know I am a lame-o, and confused by life in general, but what the hell is that threaded plug in the bottom of my rear (dif) for -- not the silver one guys are using to refill, but the one dead at the bottom?
scrannel is offline  
post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 20th, 2007, 6:52 pm
JCW's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Chicago, IL, USA
Posts: 4,827
They added that drain plug to the newer rear diff. BMW finally deciding that a lifetime rear diff fluid was not a great idea.
JCW is offline  
post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 20th, 2007, 6:53 pm
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Malibu, CA, USA
Posts: 622
Originally Posted by JCW
They added that drain plug to the newer rear diff. BMW finally deciding that a lifetime rear diff fluid was not a great idea.
Newer? Mine's an '06, build date 10/05. Is that new enough for that plug? Thanks
scrannel is offline  
post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 21st, 2007, 12:06 pm
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Malibu, CA, USA
Posts: 622
Here's a pic of what I'm referring to.

scrannel is offline  
post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 21st, 2007, 7:35 pm
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bloomington, IL, USA
Posts: 147
That's just a casting mark left over from making the swing arm. It's not even on the final drive. That part is hollow and contains the drive shaft, nothing in there to drain. The final drive is the part that is rotated down in this picture.

Jetpilot5 is offline  

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
extending final drive oil change? MN.GT K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 23 Aug 10th, 2010 1:32 pm
Final Drive oil change philspace K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 22 Jun 6th, 2008 8:23 pm
Sullivan County, NY 10-30-05 kevinC Ride Tales 4 Apr 27th, 2008 7:52 pm
Final Drive oil change?? steveinky K12/1300R/R-Sport 14 Jan 3rd, 2007 8:47 pm
Final drive oil change - Not entirely successful GMack K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 10 Nov 28th, 2006 8:05 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome