Steering stabilizer - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 10th, 2005, 8:42 pm Thread Starter
 
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Steering stabilizer

have put on 34,000 miles on my 03 GT. It seems now that the wind buffets the bike comeing up behind big trucks now and it did'nt before. Running Avon ST 45 tires, beginning to wonder if a worn out steering stabilzer would cause the problme mentioned.
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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 11th, 2005, 3:40 am
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Could be.......My RS with the same tire did this until I removed the damper and put new seals and oil in it. Mine had a leaky rear seal with only 19,000 miles of wear on it.

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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 11th, 2005, 8:12 am
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on my 98 RS at 6200 miles the damper was shot. Rebuilt it and the improvement was amazing. I used 10 wt fork oil in it and it worked great. Untill the temps dropped to 30-40 degree range, now its pretty dam stiff in the early am. ( wonder if I should drink 10 wt for breakfast?) Next time I think I will try 5 wt or ATF fluid.Oh, mine was easy to tell it was shot as it leaked oil all over the front of the bike.FWIW
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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 11th, 2005, 11:23 am
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Can you point me towards instructions for re-building a steering damper? Sounds like a good Winter project...

Thanks!

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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 11th, 2005, 11:51 am
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http://www.k-bikes.com/ubbthreads/sh...=&view=&sb=&o= here is a link to instructions. I couldnt get the bolt from hell loose, the one under the front fender, so i rebuilt mine in place. A pain but not as bad as drilling the bolt out. I ordered seals from the guy that wrote the instructions,I have his email addy if you need it. Jim
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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 12th, 2005, 4:55 am
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The 'bolt from hell' is no probs if you do this, the bolt has 3 or 4 threads coated in Loctite, the type that sets hard! get this bolt out first whilst the rest of the damper is fixed.

Get yourself an impact driver that can take the spline wrench, mine is standard 3/8 or 1/2 inch. Be patient, keep tapping away on the impact wrench loosening a few degrees at a time but you must keep the wrench perfectly aligned or you'll ruin the bolt head. Once out, clean the bolt with a wire brush.

Nobody has said whether the bolt should be Loctited when refitted. I guess it's there on oem to stop the damper flapping around if the bolt ever dropped out and fouled your steering.

I read you can recon a damper without removing plastic and such. I didn't do this, I took off the front wheel, calipers and front fender. You can at least test the damper in a vise without pouring oil all over the bike if you got the assembly wrong and you can fill it without leaving an air space! You don't need the side plastic off.

I used transmission fluid. I think 10Wt is a bit heavy.



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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 12th, 2005, 7:34 am
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i tried heating the bolt to release the locktight with a soldering iron on high, but did not work. By the time I figured that out, the head was starting to round out.Next time I'll try the impact wrench trick, if I have enough bite left in the bolt head. I agree,the 10 wt is a bit heavy, seemed fine this summer, but in cooler weather I think its a bit much.
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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 2005, 1:33 am
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little doubt

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmm
I used 10 wt fork oil in it and it worked great.
My steering dumper is leaking too...
But oil leaked out is very very thick oil, not as 5 or 10wt fork oil: it seems like a glue!!
Are you sure that it must be refilled with a fluid forks oil?
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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 2005, 4:34 am
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Assuming you have an oem damper and not aftermarket, I can tell you what happens with thick oil (10Wt plus):

After you've filled the damped with thick oil and reassembled it, grip one end in the vise. Then push and pull as hard as you can. You will notice that the outer dust seal lip will be bulging outwards under pressure - a sure sign that the seal is under too much pressure. If you try it in the bike like this and wiggle the forks back and forth I bet you find the seal will eventually burst and pour oil over your fender. There's always a non damped zone of a few degrees before you get resistance.

The oil seals should have two sealing lips. The inner lip is the one that grips the piston rod under pressure, the outer lip you can see is really a dust seal. These seals are really designed for rotational use. I haven't found any solid reference to them being used for hydraulic push-pull sealing - but then the oem seals may be a different spec to the replacements. Dampers that leak will also pull in water, so the oil may not look the same anymore. That's why you must check the little bypass holes in the centre pistons!

PS I am assuming all oem dampers might be like mine. My piston bypass holes were very small. It's possible that later dampers had larger bypass holes, therefore used higher weight oil. That's the problem replacing a key component - oil, in a part like this.

What we really need is somebody to hang a spring balance on a new damper and feedback readings.



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Last edited by voxmagna; Nov 20th, 2005 at 4:38 am. Reason: PS
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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 2005, 4:55 am
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Thanks Voxmagna. I've an original damper... and now is on my table.

There is a screw (like a plug) at one end of the shaft: what for?
I've opened the damper, and I see a fluid oil inside, not thick...(?!?!): you advise me to refill with a 5 or 10 oil forks? (sorry for my english)


a K1200RS '98 from Italy

Last edited by cardano4ever; Nov 20th, 2005 at 5:25 am.
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