Main Oil Seal Leak - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 2005, 6:57 am Thread Starter
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Main Oil Seal Leak

As a daily rider and commuter, my 2000KRS has been trouble free for 65kmiles. The first of November I had to travel out of town and she sat for two weeks under cover. When I returned and did my preride checks noticed a wet seam around the bell housing and wiped it up and went for a ride. After ride the under side of bike was soaked with engine oil. Wiped her down and rode around the block and she was covered again. I guess she didn't like sitting for that long. Pulled her apart this Sunday and the oil seal was shot. To my pleasant surprise the splines and all other seals were perfect. The clutch looks brand new and the rest of parts in very good shape. All parts on order. I'll try to post pics soon. The test will be to get her back to original condition for many more miles. Later...
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 2005, 11:15 pm
 
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Gotit, we look forward to seeing some pics.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2005, 5:48 am Thread Starter
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Clutch alignment tool?

Talked to the service tech and he says that a clutch alignment tool is not neccasary. I can see what he is talking about as to fit everything in place and hand start the 8 bolts, then tighten down in a star pattern one half turn at a time till proper torque is reached. Question to the people in the know, is this possible? and what to look out for while doing this? Any other items that have given problems to ya that I should be watching out for to reassemble? It's easy to take apart, LOOKS EASY to put together again. Thanks for any advice.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2005, 5:57 am
 
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On my K100 I used a 3/8 extension and a socket that fit snugly through the clutch to make the alignment. Get some long bolts to fit the bell housing and cut the heads off, use these studs to help keep the transmission aligned when reinstalling. Mark the clutch pressure plate/flywheel assembly before you take it apart to keep it in balance.
The older models had a large O-ring under the big nut at the back of the crankshaft, if the K12 uses that I would replace it while everything is apart.
It's not a bad idea to change the tranny imput shaft seal while everything is apart also.
Use Honda Moly 60 paste sparingly on the clutch splines.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2005, 6:22 am
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Gotitbad, whilst you're in the clutch, can you see anything sloppy in there around the slave cylinder operating mechanism thrust bearing etc that might add to the 'bag of rocks' noises which reduce when you pull in the clutch?



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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2005, 6:47 am
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I've done this and did not use a clutch alignment too. I just eye-balled it to get as centered as possible, then when I had the transmission nearly in place, I used a long flat blade screwdriver and tapped the clutch plate (on the hub where the transmisson shaft engages) to budge it slightly until I saw it aligned with the spline.

With your mileage, I would consider replacing the clutch slave cylinder too and also the transmission seals as someone previously mentioned.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2005, 6:58 am Thread Starter
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Clutch alignment tool?

Thanks guys, I knew there was something I was forgetting to consider, slave cylinder and tranny seal. I don't want to have to get back into this teardown for a long while. Thanks again.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2005, 6:58 am
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To remove the clutch basket, I just used a piece of aluminum, drilled a couple holes and used the old clutch bolts. It presses against the housing and stops it from turning when loosening and tightening the center bolt. By the way, there are 6 clutch bolts and not 8 as the parts fiche lists.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Dec 5th, 2005, 6:16 am Thread Starter
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Talking Back Together and Running GREAT!

Well guys I got the K12RS back together this weekend and saved a bunch of $$$ on doing the main seal replacement myself. While in there I pulled the starter off and it had like new brushes so I put back together, seals on the transmission were not leaking so don't mess with if not leaking. Everything lubed and torqued. Stared right up, no spare parts on work surface and went around the block for test. All Good! Replaced skin and went for a ride @30miles, pulling over a couple times to check for leaks. Like I said, saved a bunch of $$$ on doing the job myself. Thanks again for all your tips on the process.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 2006, 3:24 pm
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How many hours did you put into the job?
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