This reply is for your early KRS bike, I don't know if they do things differently on later models:
The power outlet socket is nothing more than a socket connected through a fuse to the battery terminals. What you measure at the socket is what you get at the battery terminals and it saves you removing the seat - but it's easy to short it out with meter test prods and blow the fuse!
That's why it's a good idea to get a low current tender and plug it in there, nothing to remove when you get back from a ride then after leaving the bike standing a few days (clock draining battery) the bike will always start on the button with no flashing ABS llights afterwards.
What you measured is the battery terminal voltage when loaded with cranking - 11 volts so that is a good battery. Get a reading below 10 volts and start to think 'new battery' soon. 12.5 volts is a fully charged battery but this is a variable figure. If you did this first thing in the morning without running the bike it would probably have dropped to nearer 12 volts.
You got 14.2 volts when the bike was idling. This shows there was some charge going back into the battery, but not quite enough to put back what cranking took out, but the alternator is working ok. If you got 12-12.5 volts, same as bike not running then you would have a bad alternator!
When you got 14.6 to 14.7 at 3-4K that was probably the alternator now putting back the full charging current needed to make up the cranking loss. If you rode a long trip without lights, heated grips or high loads, stopped the bike and checked this again without cranking, it probably would have dropped a little showing the battery was now fully charged and didn't need more from the alternator.
Different battery technologies can produce slight differences in these voltages. But you have to remember that batteries are electro-chemical devices hooked up to a massive generator and charge controller design can vary, so you can't rely on the voltages you measure with decimal point accuracy. The alternator can at times be pulsing its charge and electronic voltmeters can be reading peaks instead of averages.
All you need to know is the battery voltage on cranking doesn't drop below about 10 volts, the battery voltage is around 14.2 on idle, possibly increasing a little with rpm and it doesn't measure much more than 15 volts. If it does then investigate possible battery overcharging, measurement errors, or battery if it fails the cranking voltage test.
The power plug has no limiting devices (except the fuse), as said it is the battery terminal voltage. Most accessories that plug into cars and bikes say they are 12 volts, but are actually designed for 14-15 volts. Actually all tungsten auto bulbs are the same. If they were designed and life spec'd for the 12 volts on the box, they wouldn't last very long.
Your battery and alternator charging seem fine and good to go.
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