Blue Streak Wrenching Thread - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2008, 9:54 pm Thread Starter
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Blue Streak Wrenching Thread

This is a copy of a wrenching thread I have on another board and thought someone here might enjoy reading it.

This is a compilation of several wrenching sessions.



She's home!!



BB = Baby Blue
SW = Shop Whore

Some comments after riding her home last night:

1. BB has 51,700 mile and it shows. Less overall vibration felt thru the grips, saddle and pegs than the SW with 180,000 miles.

2. The pull on the clutch is 35% - 45% lighter and the shifting up and down is very, very smooth. (I suspect I now need to adjust the cable on the SW)

3. The acceleration is smoother and quicker.

4. It is more nimble in the turns.

5. The throttle is more responsive.






Well, it begins

So the first thing we needed to do was puts some lights on her.

We started with these pics...







And we sent them to a friend of ours.

While waiting to hear back, Steve set up the PIAA's with HID's.







Time to test fire it...






Our friend sent these pics.






Ok, here are some more pics of the process.

Steve mounted the Blue Sea fuse block. We didn't use it for this light project, but set it in place for future projects.



Hey! Look! My bike matches the floor!!



Steve wired it so the high beam switch turns on the PIAA's. So low beam is the main headlight, high is all three.



We wanted the relay and 30-amp fuse (white box) in a place that was not too hard to get to.


Nana Korobi Ya Oki
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post #2 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2008, 9:55 pm Thread Starter
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Wires pulled thru.







More progress forward.

The inner plate and outer plate center holes were slightly enlarged to allow the connectors to pass thru.










Ok, now the brackets are here, time to make them fit.



It's out of focus, but you can see the raised bushings, they'll need to be shaved down.



I cut out the rubber washers on the back



Then I pushed out the bushings.



This was the sanding set up I managed to come up with.



This was my first attempt






Nana Korobi Ya Oki
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post #3 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2008, 9:56 pm Thread Starter
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Well, that clearly didn't work. I couldn't control the bushing very well.

Ok, STOP! Think.

This was my next attempt. Different bolt, and washers, #12 3/4" socket...







That worked GREAT!!. I had very good control of pressure and the ratchet allowed me to gently rotate the surface I was grinding.



However, when I assembled all the parts, there was a gap between the bracket and the rubber mount.

I marked out where each bracket will go.



Then I pushed out all the bushings again, and began with Dremel, to create a recessed area for the bracket.









Here's the finished mount less the light.










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post #4 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2008, 9:56 pm Thread Starter
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First test run.

Low only.



PIAA's and high.



Low only.



PIAA's and high.




Testing an idea. The c-clip the fit the seat pin is a PIA.

1. the clips often fall out.

2. The ones that stay in, when I need to remove the seat, are a bitch to remove and replace.

So, this is what I did.







Steve mounted the Blue Sea fuse block and ran wires to power the GPS, tank bag and Gerbings.





Next he replaced the worn out handlebar bushings.





In the mean time I sanded and painted the light brackets. I'll be mounting them back up today.

Pics to follow.

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post #5 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2008, 9:57 pm Thread Starter
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OK, I'm done in the garage for today.

PIAA lights are mounted.







GPS is mounted. I cut and painted the bar yesterday, but it turned out like this...



So I said screw it, sanded it all off and left it like this.

I made two small bushings and cut these screws down to the right length.










Next I mounted my Heat-troller for the Gerbings.

I cut another piece of alum. bar and shaped it.








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post #6 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 2008, 3:19 am
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Be careful!

Those lights won't be anywhere near road legal even if the lamps were before the HID modification. You can tell by the front lenses. They will just put a circular splash of high brightness HID somewhere on the road and not exactly where you need it. The mounting position is also prone to vibration, but yes it looks good on the bike.

You can't use them as 'always on' running lights because there is no defined beam pattern for oncoming which will get blinded. You will also probably see circular 'halos' because the light gets out around the edges of the lenses. They are probably best left to come on with main beam, then you decide how often you use main beam and understand HIDs take a few seconds to light up to full brightness.

There may be a gain for some cruising long open roads at night with not much oncoming, but not for urban riders who will have a pair of HID conversions fitted on the bike they can't use much. Try them turned on, even angled low when making a night turn at a T junction or when approaching. You will never get T boned, 'cos the waiting driver is left blinded for quite some seconds!

The more lights you add (particularly small units), the more carefully they need to be focussed in their design. That's why the BMW headlight is large and good at its job and a HID conversion there works well.



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post #7 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 2008, 6:09 am Thread Starter
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I agree, these are NOT for urban riding at all.
However, they are perfect for night time mountain riding, which I do.

The beams were perfect and put the light where I needed it, esp. in sharp turns and at intersections.

I'm always courteous and dim my lights.

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post #8 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 2008, 7:21 am
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Looks like y'all are having a blast. I find working on the bike is as much fun as riding it.

Good job!

-=grif=-
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post #9 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 2008, 2:19 pm
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Whe I first put mine on I wired separate relays for the left and right so I could try running with the nearside tied to low beam aimed towards the curb, and the offside aimed center and high to fill the main beam.

Daylight riding approaching turns was great for defensive riding with low beam to avoid T bones, but I got some aggravation from cages waiting at stops and on roundabouts. They are just so bright at 35 watts each.

Now I've tied them both to the main beam which is also HIDed. The HID low is best bang for the buck and 105 watts of high beam straight ahead HID is just awesome when I can use it. The down side is you have to watch for reflective signs which throw back a lot of light. Snow, ice and wet roads throw back glare too.

I came to the conclusion you could probably get away with only one of these mounted just under the headlight on the oil cooler rail. It doesn't look so cosmetic but costs 1/2 the price. The 4" unit may not clear the fender, but the smaller oval Hellas might.



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post #10 of 58 (permalink) Old Dec 16th, 2008, 3:35 am Thread Starter
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
Looks like y'all are having a blast. I find working on the bike is as much fun as riding it.

Good job!
I do too. It's very rewarding.

Another cool thing is, the brackets we developed with the help of our friend John were so well recieved on the K11OG forum, that several people ordered copies. John only charged me his cost ($10 a pair) and I in turn will only charge actual shipping + actual cost to the members.

It's cool when a wrenching project can reach out like that and help others.

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