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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 2005, 12:06 pm Thread Starter
 
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Question reset after mods???? HELP

Do I need to disconnect battery after an engine mod (PIPE)?

Some ecus have learned map data and can or should be cleared after parameters change. Often lack of power, control input will reset said.

I have the BMW repair CD and have found nothing that helps.

Thanks,

Last edited by rubbert; Dec 11th, 2005 at 12:08 pm. Reason: can't spell
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 2005, 1:54 pm
 
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When I put a Remus on my last K bike, I didn't reset the chip. That said, I have read on the old site that many people did reset after making mods and they were happy with the results.

I can't remember exactly but I think you just disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect. There is also something about twisting the throttle to the wide open position twice before starting the bike after reset.

Maybe someone who has done this will reply and correct what I may have said wrong.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 2005, 10:33 am
 
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what Jay said is basically correct, however you need to leave the batt disconnected for longer then that - I forget what the "official" time period was but it's at least a few hours, I did mine overnight......this is to ensure all learned memory etc. is fully wiped clean......just disc the batt a few minutes will not accomp this.......then yes, turn ignition on w/o starting motor, and fully twist throttle a few times, turn ignition off, garnish, and enjoy!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 2005, 11:02 am
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When you've removed the battery, short the terminals on the bike with a croc lead and leave it there, or put the light switch in the parking light 'on' position - that quickens the drain. Doing it this way I read 1 hour to discharge the memory.



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Last edited by voxmagna; Dec 13th, 2005 at 11:03 am. Reason: typo
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 2005, 1:19 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikay
what Jay said is basically correct, however you need to leave the batt disconnected for longer then that - I forget what the "official" time period was but it's at least a few hours, I did mine overnight......this is to ensure all learned memory etc. is fully wiped clean......just disc the batt a few minutes will not accomp this.......then yes, turn ignition on w/o starting motor, and fully twist throttle a few times, turn ignition off, garnish, and enjoy!
This is correct...at least 2 hours then twist throttle as mikay says...never heard of shorting the terminals....no need to discharge the battery itself.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 2005, 4:34 pm
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Er.. Don't short the battery!!!! only the leads on the bike AFTER you took out the battery!

Any stored fault codes get cleared, including ABS



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Last edited by voxmagna; Dec 13th, 2005 at 4:36 pm. Reason: addition
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 2005, 6:45 am
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Hmmmmmmmmmm ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
Er.. Don't short the battery!!!! only the leads on the bike AFTER you took out the battery!

Any stored fault codes get cleared, including ABS
Never thought about it, but definately, that would discharge any capacitor. I wonder how soon the fault codes will be "written" vs "stored". Just thinking ahead, but I can see it happening that way with CanBus, etc.

Just think, the technology already exist for this scenario: Your local BMW dealer could have a self check parking space - you pull into it, feed a dollar (OK, a twenty. It is a BMW dealer) into the slot, and voila - via Bluetooth the "reader" talks to your bike and ask how things have been lately. That run through Deal's Gap shows up, and the traffic jam in Vegas (with data from onboard GPS), but everythings OK. You pocket your readout and drive off.

Piece of cake.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 2005, 8:19 am
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They're talking over here about road use charging systems based on a mandatory GPS box in a vehicle and linked back via cell to your bank account. So they could easy list all your speeds and sections of road where you were breaking the speed limits and charge the tickets automatically as well.

Our ECU controllers still use volatile memory as far as I know. However on cages, the ABS is non-volatile. Just like flight recorders, after a crash they can tell if air bags should have fired if they didn't or there were brake faults already logged in your ABS computer - All scary stuff for freedom and liberty.

Can you imagine a vehicle with a mandatory GPS road charging box linked to your cruise control? I shall keep a roll of kitchen foil handy!

By shorting out the battery leads on the bike (with the battery first removed!) or switching on the parking light, you do indeed provide a reverse discharge path for the memory capacitor. It's not always successful if they've put a diode inside their ECU box. A couple of negative volts via a resistor defeats that though.



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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 2005, 10:03 am
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It's not always successful if they've put a diode inside their ECU box. A couple of negative volts via a resistor defeats that though.
You try this first, quite expensive to be messing with it like that.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 2005, 11:04 am
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I've done it on my box, but then I knew what generation the chip architecture was, their max/min and reverse voltage/current levels and what level to limit the current to!

My box might not be identical to yours. I only mess with my things when I've got a reasonable understanding of what I'm dealing with. I failed once on a cage airbag control unit, but the manufacturer had already made particular fault codes permanently burn their NV rom, so the mission was pretty impossible from the start. Now airbag squibs and control units are NOT things to mess with, but the accelerometers and circuit techniques are quite interesting.



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