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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 11:08 am Thread Starter
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k1200rs fork seals

Anyone know of any tricks when changing the fork seals on a 99 k1200rs? I am considering taking care of it myself instead of the dealer, but wanted to know if I'm getting into a big project first. I take my bike to the dealer for everything but oil and air filters normally, but would like to start fixing a lot of it myself.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 1:03 pm
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You might want to look through this, written up by Rich Hall



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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 1:38 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. Big help, I think I'll do it myself.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 5:48 pm
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Go ahead and let us know how it goes, the way all the other seals are going on my bike those will probably be next.....! Pics Please!
But I know Flyingkiwi has to do that too.......!

And for anyone else interested, the fork oil is supposed to be lifetime.....so I was told by experts. I changed mine anyway and found......WATER....in there. Not much but some nonetheless.

Now we all know that water and oil do not mix and that water causes corrosion so.......!

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 6:31 pm
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I thought the newer bikes had lifetime oil in their rear drives!!

Since the forks only use a teeny amount of fork oil, it's a no-brainer to not replace it along with new seals.



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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 2011, 12:25 pm
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Re:

A nice guide by Rich. two more tips that may go with his guide. The end of the tube is pretty sharp. I ground a 3/16" beval on the end and then dressed it smooth with a wet rock and leather strap. I also put the tube in the fridge for a few minutes before sliding it in place, less torn lips that way.

And yes I had a drink of water drain out of mine too!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 29th, 2013, 7:23 pm
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I know this is an old post but wanted to put my two cents in. I was able to change my fork seals with all the plastics and controls in place. I just put the bike on the center stand, jacked it up under the engine to raise the front wheel, loosened the pinch bolts, and carefully pulled the tubs out and changed the seals. I used a 1 5/16 socket and a 10 inch extension with a rubber mallet to drive the seals home. you HAVE to drive the seals home even if the retaining clip goes into place or the seals will leak. Took me about 30 minutes for both sides. Good luck!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 2016, 4:57 am
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do these forks actually provide the dampening? or is this done by the coil-over ?

2002 K1200RS -- more than 100,000Kms on the clock, just ran in.
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