Starter removal, K1200RS. - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 2010, 1:56 am Thread Starter
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Starter removal, K1200RS.

Some of you may have read the shop manuals, either Clymer or BMW, on the Starter removal procedure. It goes....Remove rear drive, swingarm, tranny,raise the frame etc....etc....! At least 6-8 hours work for someone with all the special tools. I do not want to know what the dealer's quote would be on that one.

And Thanks to FlyingKiwi who got me interested in that one in the first place......I just hope that now he won't be too P.....Off from that surgery he had to do on his own bike.

I had some time waiting for parts for the clutch O-ring job, and decided to investigate a bit further. I can now remove and replace the starter in less than an hour. I cannot guarantee this will work on all the RS/GTs, there is zero clearance, so you may have to resort to a little grinding with the Dremel, but nothing serious. But I got mine in and out 5-6 times just to make sure of the procedure, it works and now I know that I can remove my starter on the side of the road if need be.

-Disconnect the battery
-Remove the coils.
-Remove the seat rail/fuse box holder and push the wiring and fuses out of the way.
-Disconnect the Alternator.
-Disconnect the Starter.
-Remove the small ground on the cross-frame
-Remove the 2 starter mounting bolts and ground wires.That one is a little tricky, you will need a long ball-end Allen wrench to reach the inside bolt.


Pull the starter back by about 1" and turn it counterclockwise until the mounts are at about 120 Degrees from their original position.Like this:




Now move the back of the starter upward while keeping the front part down, that is to clear the boss in the casing.This takes a little wiggling to clear the obstructions such as the alternator post.The starter has to go as far up as possible and should look like this when you are done.



Now work it backward, you'll notice the ground wire is still on the cross- frame, it has to come out, zero clearance.



As you are doing that, work the front of the starter to this position.



This is where it gets tricky and where you may have to relieve the corner of the casing with a file or Dremel tool. I did not have to, but like I said, zero clearance....! Pull the gear end of the starter away from the casing and slide the starter forward.....Et voila, you should have a BMW starter in your left hand to do as you please with.

Reassembly is exactly the reverse,but look carefully at the second pic, it has to go back exactly the same way.

Push it back and up from the front until it is back at the point where the gear meets the casing, push in in there and carefully work it back in place holding the front of the starter slightly up. You have to make sure the gear clears the boss on the case, and a little lube on the O-ring helps. Here is a pic of the boss you have to clear:



I could go a little farther in this procedure by saying that you could free a sticky starter clutch once the starter is removed, but I haven't tried that. But from what I can see, you could rig a flexible hose on a can of carburator cleaner and spray behind the starter gear into the starter clutch, possibly cleaning/freeing it that way.

But my question begs here....Did anyone have to pay "a few" hours shop rate at a dealer to have their starter replaced or serviced????

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 2010, 4:18 pm
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Good write up - Thanks.

Now can you do the same for the alternator?



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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 2010, 1:32 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
Good write up - Thanks.

Now can you do the same for the alternator?
I very much doubt it, you will have to raise the frame for that one, mind you there is certainly ways to shorten the procedure, as in not dismantling half the bike to get at it,just like a big scissor action with the front engine mounts as the pivot, but no more experimenting for me this year I hope....!

Most of the alternator functions can be tested in place, and they seem quite reliable, on the other hand, a dirty starter brings out all sorts of gremlins....

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 25th, 2010, 8:44 am
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You have to be careful 'Scissoring' on the front engine mounts. They can be damaged and when the bike is all back together, you wonder where the vibes are coming from. It happened to me.



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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 25th, 2010, 11:26 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
You have to be careful 'Scissoring' on the front engine mounts. They can be damaged and when the bike is all back together, you wonder where the vibes are coming from. It happened to me.
Curious here, would you mean damaging the rubber from forgetting to loosen up the mounts? I did not like the way they built the left side mount, with a nut on the inside that can only be accessed by removing the radiator.....that is unless you are sneaky.Loosening it up was not the problem, I got caught when I had to retighten.

Same type of mounts at the paralever torque arms, they should be tightened with a 180 Lbs preload on the bike otherwise the rubber may rip from the metal part, that one is not in the BMW manual, but is in the Clymer I think.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
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Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 2012, 5:26 am
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Thanks!!!

When searching Google for solutions to fix the starter problem I found these pages...

I tried the starter removal trick and it worked!!!
Thanks thanks thanks... for sharing this!!!

Made some pictures myself and posted them on the Dutch K forum:

http://www.bmwk.nl/phpBB3_bmwk/viewt...=10267#p130443

Br, Rob

Last edited by robsbmw; Apr 10th, 2012 at 6:12 pm.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 2012, 11:35 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669
Curious here, would you mean damaging the rubber from forgetting to loosen up the mounts? I did not like the way they built the left side mount, with a nut on the inside that can only be accessed by removing the radiator.....that is unless you are sneaky.Loosening it up was not the problem, I got caught when I had to retighten.

Same type of mounts at the paralever torque arms, they should be tightened with a 180 Lbs preload on the bike otherwise the rubber may rip from the metal part, that one is not in the BMW manual, but is in the Clymer I think.
When I first lifted the frame I was a bit lazy and hadn't appreciated how the front engine mounts could be stretched the way they were. Also, my mounts were '97 so probably weren't as pristine and rubbery as new mounts. If you look at how the mount bushes are made, they are an internal rubber spider which is great for vibration isolation, but too much stretch and the spiders can rupture and you won't know.

After my rebuild I had vibration problems I never had before. I went over the whole bike with a stethoscope and one front engine mounting was not isolating as good as the other - despite playing with the bolt tightening torques. I also saw an issue with the washer they fit since it can bridge the inner and outer mount bushes allowing vibes to get transmitted to the frame.

I replaced both bushes and used a slightly smaller washer. Straight away I noticed the weight of the motor left the same amount of gap in the bush around the rubber top and bottom. Whereas before there was more daylight through the top of the mount bush as the motor was sat lower.

After I had finshed, the vibes went down 60% which was a good result. Now I will always watch the mounts if I am hoisting, jacking or scissoring.

I did have a problem with that left side mount. I think I looked at it and replaced their bolt or bolt and nut with a 'something else' bolt hex head or socket which I could get out a lot easier.



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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 2012, 2:34 pm Thread Starter
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Silly motor mounts arrangement, the only reason to remove the left radiator on a scissoring job is to access the nut for that left mount. Silly silly but a long screwdriver does work to jam that nut and retighten to torque, providing you can see it from the top. It is there and that worked for me. No need to drain the coolant and remove the rad.

Mr. Robsbmw, glad that worked for you, sorry you had to grind a little, that may have to do with casting differences in the cross piece. Zero clearance and lots of fun reinserting it I see from your thread over there.

I like the last comment on your thread over there. One I have made before.

Anyone in need of a starter, Euromotoelectrics does sell rebuilt starters for the Ks now, $89.00.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 2018, 9:50 pm
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Having your comments and photos at hand helped me persevere. I found a half round wood rasp just the tool for shaping the frame cross member just enough to free the starter. The only downside was the brushes really didn't need replacing after all. Thanks for your assistance
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