Clutch and possible gearbox issues - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 2010, 4:09 pm Thread Starter
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Clutch and possible gearbox issues

89 K75, 50K miles, splines never lubed, and no leaks. My bike recently suffered a clutch failure and I was wondering where to go next. I've inspected the clutch and most of the splines (i left the swingarm on). I noticed that the friction plate spline was completely stripped and that there was residue/rust everywhere inside the clutch. I also was looking at the input spline of the gearbox and wondering whether is was likewise ruined and the gearbox with it (at least finacially). Furthermore, while removing the gearbox the pushrod stuck and took a bit of weight. I rolled it on the ground and it did not appear to wobble. Is it ruined? Obviously I need a new pressure plate, i need to lube the splines, and generally clean-up; but what else do I need to do?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 2010, 9:25 pm
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I think you need to take the rear drive off and look at those splines too, if they look as bad as the ones on the tranny..... I know those splines can be rebuilt, but it means opening the tranny and getting the driveshaft out , not too bad of a job but the driveshaft may have to be shimmed properly , so you would need a shop manual with the procedure for that.

For the pushrod, you need to roll it on a piece of plate glass to really see if it is bent or putting it on a drill may also give you an idea.

While you are in there you may want to replace the O-Ring behind the big nut on the clutch housing, they do fail ....and still do on the newer bikes.But you want to take that clutch housing off anyway just to clean that "Rust Dust" from behind ,in case it makes its way into the rear main seal.

Pressure plate, housing cover, they may clean up, hard to tell from just a few pics,you better start sanding, don't worry too much that steel is pretty hard, I'd even hit that with an orbital sander and a wire wheel on an angle grinder. But the diaphragm spring should be changed for sure that is what applies the pressure on the clutch.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 2010, 1:25 pm Thread Starter
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I don't have the abilty to repair the driveshaft myself, but I have found k75/100 driveshaft and a whole new transmission for $300. As far as price goes would it be better for someone else repair it, replace the driveshaft, or buy a whole new transmission, ? Also, would it be too difficult to do the labor myself? I've gotten this far, but i'm not real comfortable getting inside the transmission. I understand your working with pretty exact mechanics and I'm worried I'll mess it up even worse.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 2010, 9:11 pm
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For $300.00, if the tranny is good, I'd go for that, would cost you more than that to repair yours, 2-3-4 hours work at dealer's price plus the parts. But the Driveshaft I mentioned is the one in the transmission, that is what it is called by BMW, most of us would call it the Input Shaft.
Back to a used tranny, you should bench test it first, just to make sure it shifts into all its gears, and fill it with oil and lean it toward the seals for a while to make sure they do not leak, one of my friends got caught like that, he had to remove the tranny again to replace the front seal. Mind you I would probably replace that one anyway just in case.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 2010, 8:01 pm Thread Starter
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I've bench tested my current tranny and it goes through all the gears. I inspected the swingarm and output spline and they appear to be fine. What i was worried about was the input spline. Does it look too stripped to save? Everything else seems ok and I would be overwelmed if all I had to buy was a friction plate.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2010, 12:05 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tw1ggy315
I've bench tested my current tranny and it goes through all the gears. I inspected the swingarm and output spline and they appear to be fine. What i was worried about was the input spline. Does it look too stripped to save? Everything else seems ok and I would be overwelmed if all I had to buy was a friction plate.
Yeah, I understand. But, my looking at the picture doesn't do any good. Take it to someone that deals with splines locally and ask them what they think about fixing vs. replacement. If they look worn to you, they're worn, and the input shaft should be addressed. Otherwise, you're going to be replacing the pressure plate 8,000 miles from now. BTDT ...



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