06 K1200R water pump repair - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old May 5th, 2010, 10:43 am Thread Starter
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06 K1200R water pump repair

I bought my first BMW it's a K1200R W/ 23K that has an overheat problem. Found this K series dedicated site while looking for answers to questions about rebuilding the water pump and immediatly joined. I searched the threads for answers and didn't find any. Looks like water pump seal is leaking so I ordered a shaft set (shaft with seal and bearing installed) I would like to hear from someone who has knowledge of how to push the impeller off and on the shaft without damaging the housing or shaft set. Is this a dealer only special tool job? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks in advance from new guy

Last edited by rubberglide; May 5th, 2010 at 10:55 am.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old May 5th, 2010, 6:02 pm
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Best to get a Clymer or BMW service manual before starting real work.

Making mistakes can be very expensive on these bikes, the information is relatively cheap. You can't even start without a torque table for most ops.



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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old May 5th, 2010, 8:52 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks, yes I ordered a BMW service manual as soon as I could and it hasn't arrived yet. I have a riding buddy with an air cooled GS that also warned me to wait. I have removed the housing only and inspected the seal. The pump seal looks loose and my drip is just below it so I am assuming that's the problem. Parts should be here tommorrow but, I won't go any further without guidance or a manual. Would feel better if I had both. Some service manuals can be vague. I'm not familiar with BMW manuals and am hoping they are better than the rest like the bikes.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 2010, 8:36 pm
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The manual doesn't contain any info on the water pump repair, just replacement. I'm having overheating problems on my '06 K1200R and was wondering if you fixed the problem? My bike is overheating below 5K RPM. Once I kick the RPM's up to 6K RPM's the temp comes down quickly.

James

06 K1200R Corbin w/ smuggler, Wilbers shocks, PCIII, Factory Pro Dyno tuned, CC Suspension plates, Vario levers, Dual Evo filters, Leo Vince SBK, V1, Zumo 550

02 WR250F Stock

99 SV650 GSX-R front end, Aftershocks suspension, Penske shock, 41mm FCR flat slides, Bridgestone slicks, M4 exhaust, Vortex clipons, Woodcraft rearsets, Hot Bodies race bodywork, Factory Pro clutch cover, Total Loss ignition, BRG relocated battery, APE Adjustable Cam sprockets, JE 13:1 pistons, mild porting, balanced crank, Sunoco 110 race fuel

98 KLX331 Race Tech suspension, 331 Stroker big bore kit, 33mm pumper, Tag bars, Stroker exhaust, IMS desert tank, tall seat foam w/ Stroker cover, Open air box, KX clutch
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 2010, 9:15 pm
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I wonder if the bypass valve (thermostat) is somehow not completely opening.

I "think" it is serviceable separately from the radiator.

I've got my old radiator (which had probably 6000miles) I can open up and give you the thermostat if you decide to go that way.

'06 K1200R- in pieces
'73 Honda CB500F- slow but fun.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 2010, 11:57 pm
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Thanks for the offer JCW! The thermostat was my first thought so I replaced it before I noticed the overheating pattern with the lower RPM. I've also flushed the system, cleaned out the radiator fins and bleed the damn thing a bazillion times. The fan starts up as expected but air flow doesn't seem to be the issue.

I pulled the water pump expecting to find corroded fins but the impeller looks to be plastic. The impeller didn't seem to rotate very smoothly and had a little play in it. Also, the impeller isn't fixed to the shaft so I can turn the impeller while the engine isn't rotating. I don't know if that's how it's supposed to be or not.

James

06 K1200R Corbin w/ smuggler, Wilbers shocks, PCIII, Factory Pro Dyno tuned, CC Suspension plates, Vario levers, Dual Evo filters, Leo Vince SBK, V1, Zumo 550

02 WR250F Stock

99 SV650 GSX-R front end, Aftershocks suspension, Penske shock, 41mm FCR flat slides, Bridgestone slicks, M4 exhaust, Vortex clipons, Woodcraft rearsets, Hot Bodies race bodywork, Factory Pro clutch cover, Total Loss ignition, BRG relocated battery, APE Adjustable Cam sprockets, JE 13:1 pistons, mild porting, balanced crank, Sunoco 110 race fuel

98 KLX331 Race Tech suspension, 331 Stroker big bore kit, 33mm pumper, Tag bars, Stroker exhaust, IMS desert tank, tall seat foam w/ Stroker cover, Open air box, KX clutch
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 2010, 8:27 am
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The plastic fins are bonded to a steel shaft on the pump that fits in a recess in the intake cam. The plastic fins rotates with the shaft.

A bolt threads through the shaft and threads onto the cam shaft locking the unit together.

When assembled, the fins should not rotate freely.

At least that what it looks like on my spare engine.

'06 K1200R- in pieces
'73 Honda CB500F- slow but fun.
'77 Yamaha XS 750 triple- kinda
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 2010, 1:08 pm
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That would be my problem if your impeller doesn't spin without the shaft rotating, I guess that takes us back to the original post and how to get it apart. I'll try to pull the halves of the pump apart later tonight and see what it looks like.

James

06 K1200R Corbin w/ smuggler, Wilbers shocks, PCIII, Factory Pro Dyno tuned, CC Suspension plates, Vario levers, Dual Evo filters, Leo Vince SBK, V1, Zumo 550

02 WR250F Stock

99 SV650 GSX-R front end, Aftershocks suspension, Penske shock, 41mm FCR flat slides, Bridgestone slicks, M4 exhaust, Vortex clipons, Woodcraft rearsets, Hot Bodies race bodywork, Factory Pro clutch cover, Total Loss ignition, BRG relocated battery, APE Adjustable Cam sprockets, JE 13:1 pistons, mild porting, balanced crank, Sunoco 110 race fuel

98 KLX331 Race Tech suspension, 331 Stroker big bore kit, 33mm pumper, Tag bars, Stroker exhaust, IMS desert tank, tall seat foam w/ Stroker cover, Open air box, KX clutch
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 2010, 1:39 pm
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The impeller/bearing pressed out very easily. I have the new parts ordered and will try to take some pictures and document the process so others know what to expect.

James

06 K1200R Corbin w/ smuggler, Wilbers shocks, PCIII, Factory Pro Dyno tuned, CC Suspension plates, Vario levers, Dual Evo filters, Leo Vince SBK, V1, Zumo 550

02 WR250F Stock

99 SV650 GSX-R front end, Aftershocks suspension, Penske shock, 41mm FCR flat slides, Bridgestone slicks, M4 exhaust, Vortex clipons, Woodcraft rearsets, Hot Bodies race bodywork, Factory Pro clutch cover, Total Loss ignition, BRG relocated battery, APE Adjustable Cam sprockets, JE 13:1 pistons, mild porting, balanced crank, Sunoco 110 race fuel

98 KLX331 Race Tech suspension, 331 Stroker big bore kit, 33mm pumper, Tag bars, Stroker exhaust, IMS desert tank, tall seat foam w/ Stroker cover, Open air box, KX clutch
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 1st, 2010, 5:08 pm Thread Starter
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shaft set blues

Sorry I have been real busy and didn't see you had posted looking for the same answers I was this spring. I bought a new shaft set and tried to press it in at home and broke it cause I didn't have the correct equipment to hold it while pushing. I called Gina's BMW and they installed the new shaft set in my housing with the special tool they had. Have had no problem since.
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