1987 K75s doesnt start - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2010, 11:09 pm Thread Starter
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1987 K75s doesnt start

ok, when i bought the bike it was just about time to store it for the winter, i did not use stabilizer or hook the bike up to a trickle charge when i put the bike away for storage. when i got to the bike i found that the battery was dead. i replaced the battery and then had problems getting the bike to turn over, although it was trying to start. I then checked my spark plugs, which were getting a spark just fine. i then siphoned the tank and put fresh gas in the tank, the bike still did not start. after this i spoke to someone who said i possibly had low pressure in the tank and needed to change the fuel pump and check to see if i was getting bubbles in the tank. I have changed the pump, and checked as i am trying to start the bike, it only makes bubbles when the tank is at a certain level, which i think is coming from the cycling the fuel in the tank. all of the clamps are secured tightly, and the bike still does not start. can anyone help me troubleshoot?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 2010, 3:34 am
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Unfortunately a really open ended question with a miriad of possibilities but "in theory" should be quite simple.
Basically we need air, fuel, spark, and compression.
You have spark, but do you have fuel pressure and are the spark plugs wet or dry. we should be able to assume compression as it was running before it was shut down for the winter ?

Are you getting adequate voltage at the battery even though it is new?

Nothing blocking the air intake as there are stories of animals nesting or storing food in there.

Check the basics and let us know your progress.

Phil Mars

1984 K100RT
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 2010, 11:07 am Thread Starter
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it was running before i stored it for the winter. how do i check the voltage drop, air lines, etc. this is also a first-time purchase, i have never had a motorcycle before so i am learning all of this for the first time
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2010, 6:36 am
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Looks like you could be in for a steep learning curve although from what you have already done sounds like me you know enough to be dangerous.
Plenty of people vastly more knowledgeable than me on this forum that will be able to help so should not be too painful.

I would also be hunting down a manual which I think I have seen links for on this and other forums.

Before we jump in too deep double check the connector on the FI computer which you may have disconnected to replace the battery as it needs to seat with a definite click and if you do disconnect it, it is worth cleaning with de-oxit.

If you have no success with that try the following:

Assuming you have spark and a working fuel pump so just to jump into left field for a moment it might be worth putting a voltmeter across the battery to measure voltage with everything switched off and then while cranking the engine.
Hope I am not being too simplistic but voltage is measured in parallel that is positive (or red) to positive and negative to negative (or earth). Rough guess should be around 12-13 V static and I don't think it should dip below about 10 while cranking but I stand to be corrected.

Phil Mars

1984 K100RT
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old May 25th, 2010, 11:41 pm Thread Starter
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i do have the clymer for the motorcycle as well, but will certainly check these problems. i have had a few mechanical engineers thinking that my fuel lines may have gelled up b/c i did not put in stabilizer...thoughts?
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old May 26th, 2010, 3:10 am
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Is that gas I smell?

Won't be in your manual, just common sense though: changing out the gas in the tank won't clear bad gas in the fuel lines & injector rail. ...must clear these as well. To do so, remove fuel return line from tank and bend it down so you can capture fuel in a litre plastic bottle, then crank the starter (on a charger would be good... just away from the open gas line ) for ten second intervals, letting the starter cool down between sessions, until the fuel rail and return line is clear. Bike may actually start as you are doing this, no problem. note any junk in bottom of litre bottle. re-connect the return line to tank and try starting.

Note however that the injectors may already be plugged by your initial starting effort you mentioned in the thread's initial post.

Next, go through the manual's troubleshooting guide procedures and test each system step by step. Give us updates and we can provide more helpful feedback as you provide detailed INFO. Oh, and light a candle. but again, away from the open fuel line

-bdb
SF
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old May 30th, 2010, 11:17 am Thread Starter
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Update- juice on bike is good but spark plugs are dry after cranking the bike. I started to remove the fuel hose to the injectors and there is gas going down to the injectors. Planning on working on bike more thoroughly in a couple days
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old May 31st, 2010, 6:30 am
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Sounds like you may be down to blocked injectors or the injectors not firing which can be tested with a noid light:
" To see if the injectors are firing, you'll need a special, L.E.D. test light, commonly called a "noid light". Simply unplug an injector and plug the proper noid light "they come in assorted sizes to fit different injector plug designs" into the connector. If the injectors are firing, the light will flash on and off regularly while cranking the engine."

If the injectors are not pulsing that will lead down another path but I would be double checking all connectors and earths as they would cause the majority of problems on these bikes.
Keep us posted.

Regards,

Phil Mars

1984 K100RT
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old May 31st, 2010, 8:36 am
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Study up...

Loss,

You need to go here for a start:

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml

And read pretty much everything there.

To troubleshoot one of these bikes is not impossible but before you can be effective you need a basic understanding of how the systems work or you are just shooting blind.

Study up and then you can come up with a troubleshooting plan.

Suck, squish, bang blow..... just remember that.... You have to have fuel, air compression spark and timing. But unless you understand how these things arrive at thier proper places and times you will have a tough time tracking down the problem.

With all that said, most non-running after storage k's I've seen are a locked up fuel pump. Quick and dirty is, if you attempt to start it and don't hear the pump running in the tank, that'd be what's happening.

Good Luck..

Tony G

'87 K100LT "Her Teutonic Majesty"
'79 XS750 "The Triple"
'72 A65T "The T-Bolt"
'68 B25 "The Blue Bike"
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2010, 5:29 am
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You may find this :http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/...wont-start.htm
a useful resource and while it may not fix every problem it is going to have to go close.

That being said I would use it as a guideline and always keep the basic things in mind at all times.

If nothing works then following the above guide step by step should get you moving again.

Phil Mars

1984 K100RT

Last edited by phil_mars; Jun 1st, 2010 at 8:10 am.
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