Attached is the write up and photos for my ABS tester:
1. Simple to make.
2. Principles and ideas can be implemented in alternative hardware solutions.
3. No direct connections are required to any of the bike wiring.
4. Can activate the ABS modulator for front and rear without riding on gravel.
5. May help work piston seals which could lead to sticking in future and a hard failure system lockout (Pump failure code).
6. Can help check a used or repaired modulator without hydraulics connected or the bike re-assembled for a road test.
7. Gives some re-assurance that the ABS system could activate.
8. Can test activate a modulator in warranty, without waiting for a future braking crisis to find out.
9. Can test activate the modulator after fault codes have been cleared, to confirm a hard fault needing further investigation (fault code comes back).
10. Can check a bike for working ABS, not tampered with or bypassed.
11. My tester is designed to test my ABS II, but would probably do something on any bike brand or Beemer model that uses a toothed ring and pickup sensors for wheel speed sensing.
12. On my bike model, the speedo sensor is separate in the rear drive and is not used by the ABS computer as far as I can tell. On bikes which use the ABS ring for speed sensing I would expect the speedo to be showing the tester pulse speed ( 4-5 mph). However, I cannot test the response with servo and linked brakes as my bike doesn't have them.
1. THERE ARE CAVEATS TO READ. This is a personal project and I am sharing to increase knowledge. I am not responsible for damage to a previously working ABS system or injury if this tester is tried by others.
2. A mains supply is required.
3. The tester does NOT repair a faulty modulator. In fact it won't do anything if the system is locked out with latched fault codes. These would need to be cleared first.
4. The test activates the modulator for a brief period of a manual button press, simulating an instant wheel lockup at slow speeds. It does NOT replicate the actual on road conditions and reponse from the ABS system at different speeds.
5. An apparently working ABS may be a faulty unit and could become de-activated after the test, needing a reset and further investigation.
6. All my tests were done on ABS II using a 100 tooth wheel and BMW sensors that appeared unscreened and could pick up the magnetic test field. Other versions may use different sensors or may give unpredictable results. Less than 100 teeth on an 'other' system would mean a faster synthetic riding speed, more teeth would be slower.
7. I don't have a GS911 tool. so I don't know if any unusual ABS fault codes or the number of ABS 'activations' are being stored. If they are, then they should be cleared after using the tester (GS911 feedback appreciated).
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