Got stuck with clutch installing on a K1200 RS - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 2010, 4:13 pm Thread Starter
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Got stuck with clutch installing on a K1200 RS

Hi all,

I am now trying to replace a clutch on a 99 K1200 RS. All the parts arrived and now I am putting it all together.

The rod on my bike has no ball end on it, it is exactly like on a 1100 bike, like this:

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/bmw/prod...CLA59112&desc=

Now... the problem that I have is that when I put the clutch parts in, SPACER RING, DIAPHRAGM SPRING, Pressure plate, CLUTCH PLATE and Housing cover, the diaphragm spring rests against the pressure plate (number 4 in realoem link) and it bends a lot, not touching the friction plate. It bends so much, that I can put my finger between the friction plate and the diaphragm spring. Is that normal??

This only happens if I screw the 6 renewable screws all the way in. By doing so and placing the rod with the sharp end towards the engine, the slave cyl does not touch it; if I put the rod with the sharp end towards the rear of the bike, I cannot install the slave cyl, I need ~ 7 mm until I can screw it, and the cylinder inside the clutch is pushed all the way in.

I am really confused and don't know what to do from now on...

Dan.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 2010, 4:09 am
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If something doesn't feel right then it probably isn't. I had my clutch assembly apart many times when I was trying to get its balance right and I seem to remember the space pulled down by the cover bolts was only about 1/4" and guessing I started flush with the alignment dowl on the outside edge. There obviously is tension to compress the diaphragm as you work around the bolts, but perhaps I'm fortunate in having a 'feel' for what I've done in the past.

The old parts you started with must have worked? You sent me a pic of your new push rod and it is different to mine, but they did a change which included adding a felt to slow down oil running down the hole. I didn't see the felt?. Are you using the Clymer manual?

You need to measure and compare the new and old push rod.

You need to carefully check the new and old clutch parts and any BMW part numbers on them. Suppliers can make mistakes. Also be careful that sometimes changed parts aren't always mean't to mix with existing.

I never replaced the whole shabang, just the plate and slave cylinder. I remember though there was a question about new and old type slave cylinder parts. The replacement I got was exactly the same size as the one I took out, except they included a thin paper gasket which wasn't going to do a lot.

I think I remember now. If you were using the original clutch cover parts (except the disc) you needed the early slave cylinder, and if you were replacing the lot you needed a later part. I was so confused looking at the parts list, I took my old slave cylinder along when I collected the parts just in case



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Last edited by voxmagna; Aug 7th, 2010 at 4:19 am. Reason: added text
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 2010, 7:24 am
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Here is the clutch rod for a 03, sure looks like yours, too bad I`m not home, I do have the measurements for that rod. But the rounded end goes toward the slave. The other end should slide into the clutch assembly all the way to the shoulder. If not then something is not lined up properly or reversed.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 2010, 7:57 am
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He has an early bike like mine, so needs to be careful what he is putting back, how it is going back and what replacement parts are compatible.

In my head I have year 2002, after which there were changes to watch out for.

I must admit when I repaired my clutch the dealership was on a mission to sell me the complete bundle. But I didn't have a leaking slave or a slipping clutch, just worn. So I saved a lot just doing the slave, disc and seals.

When it all got back together, it was the same smooth shifting clutch I had before.



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Last edited by voxmagna; Aug 7th, 2010 at 8:03 am.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 2010, 8:12 am Thread Starter
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Hi all,

So to make it clear, this is what happen:

The clutch was slipping a little bit and there where marks of oil between the clutch bell housing and gear box.
Took everything apart and the result was the follwoing

- clutch slave cylinder was rebuilt
- gear box input shaft seal was changed as this one was leaking
- the plate with the abrasive material on it (I don't know the exact name for it in english) was replaced. It has a thickness of aprox 6.8mm.

All the other parts are the old ones. The actual push rod on the bike is not exactly like the one in the link. It's the old type push rod with out the felt seal groove.

Now at re assembly, with everything in place and checked 3 times for correctness, the push rod dose not protrude enough for the slave cylinder piston to engage it when 6 screws are tight. The slave cylinder piston reaches the end of it's travel, stopping in the circlip.

If the 6 retaining screws are finger tight everything seems ok, but when they are tight the spring diaphragm is to far.

I'm really out of ideas with this problem and can't find anything on the web or in the original BMW manual.

Thanks for all the input and I'm waiting for any other suggestion that can shed some light on this issue.

Dan.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 2010, 11:12 am
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You have all the old parts, so why can't you just re-assemble them as they came out and see if you get the same result or a different one?

**** Are you trying to do this job without a Clymer or BMW manual?****


Pic. of assembly order attached.



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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 8th, 2010, 11:29 am Thread Starter
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Yes, we have the manual, but parts just won't fit...

The pic voxmagna posted shows the spring diaphragm assembled with the front tip pointing towards the engine, or is it me not seeing well? Is that how it should be?

Thanks.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 8th, 2010, 3:30 pm Thread Starter
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So...

Should the spring diaphragm sit like in position A or B?



Right now it's in A and it's not helping very much...

Dan.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 8th, 2010, 4:52 pm
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If you are failing at this stage, you haven't got any technical manuals, or took notes and photographs when you dismantled the bike, your chances of achieving a successful repair seems unlikely.

Clymer says:

1. "Install the diaphragm onto the clutch center pin with its rear or concave side facing out." That is, the concave side faces the motor since the pin they are talking about is the clutch alignment tool dummy pilot.

It should be obvious looking at the diaphragm for marks, which side the push rod has been pressing on.

2. "Install the pushrod so its short end faces the slave cylinder"



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Last edited by voxmagna; Aug 8th, 2010 at 5:14 pm.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 8th, 2010, 5:29 pm Thread Starter
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I have the laptop always on my work table, and I only have the BMW repair manual. It hes always helped me for the GS...


Now... It's on A and it should be on B. That makes sense...

I'll keep you posted on the work...
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