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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 7th, 2006, 4:11 pm Thread Starter
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Piaas and Fiaams

Just a few pics of the modification I made to get the dual horns in under the nose. White circles are the openings for the horns, and the blue is the EZ-Mount brackets the Piaa's are mounted to.
There is a horn relay, and the green wire from the original horn was later spliced to both horns. No issues, but I haven't held the horn button down for more that 30 seconds. Piaa 1400 fogs, instead of the 1100 driving lights.
Second and fourth photo are just a different view.



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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 2006, 4:00 pm
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Are you saying there is already a horn relay for the stock horn and that you can power two Fiamm horns off of the stock wiring without causing any problems?
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 2006, 4:45 pm
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by TWB
Are you saying there is already a horn relay for the stock horn and that you can power two Fiamm horns off of the stock wiring without causing any problems?
Yes, that is correct......also, there is no need to splice the power... you can piggyback from one horn to the other....mounted mine one behind the other on one extended bracket, horns pointing down.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 2006, 5:20 pm
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Mind showing a diagram of that piggy-back for us electrically challenged folks?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 2006, 1:57 pm
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Wink fiamm wiring

What I did was replace the original horn wire connectors while at the same time adding an extra wire/connector to the new connectors for the second horn i.e. there are 2 wires coming from each connector of the first horn, with one set (new) going to the second horn....recommend soldering and shrink tube on the connectors for worry-free results....I guess this is the same as splicing but this was a cleaner approach for me.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 2006, 5:51 pm
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The problem with overpowering is not the relay, but the wiring size which goes down the loom (under the plastic tank!) and particularly the common ground. You shouldn't have a problem with short bursts and you might ride so you never use the horns! Worst case is motor running, not short burst motor off. Of course, forget and fit a bike alarm which uses the horns and the fuse or loom might be dead pretty quick.

If you get any light dimming with the horns on, then the stock wires are too small or a common ground is shared by the lighting.

If a horn short circuits, just check you know your system fuse will blow before your loom and you should be ok.



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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2006, 10:10 pm
 
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Thumbs up OK, excellent help........

Quote:
Originally Posted by milkman
Yes, that is correct......also, there is no need to splice the power... you can piggyback from one horn to the other....mounted mine one behind the other on one extended bracket, horns pointing down.
Thanks, one question though, the stock horn had a plug to it. I believe the wires were green and brown. I can assume the brown was the ground?. Also, the stock horn had a bracket that consisted of three (3) different blade type pieces of metal attached to it, that went from mounting screw to the horn larger bolt. I could also assume I could butterfly these, and attach one horn to one, and another to one. Sound like a plan??. I have copied Mr. Wizzard's pics, and the other hand drawn one from Mr. Milkman, and shall proceed on this excellent help. Thanks so much.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2006, 10:28 pm
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Yes, brown is the ground....solder/shrink tube terminal ends that match the male terminals on the horns...consider mounting them side by side with openings facing down on one long bracket made from aluminum stock...it's a tight fit and you have to bend it to clear the fork but it looks good....you can brace the whole assembly to the frame with a wire tie.....wiring is last.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 2006, 10:53 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkman
Yes, brown is the ground
This is universal on a German vehicle, and something to remember. Brown is ALWAYS ground. Red is ALWAYS battery "+". Black is generally switched battery "+".

As for their numbering codes for wiring nodes, "31" is always a ground connection. "30" is always connected direct to battery "+"; "15" is also a battery "+" connection, but after a switch (such as the ignition switch). after that, things get a bit more complicated.

Bob.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 2006, 6:53 am
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On the wiring 'Nodes' point, my wiring diagrams show the nodes but does anybody know if there is documentation telling you where they actually are? The same could be true of the spare connectors they sprinkle about. It would be nice to know in advance which plastic to take off first.



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