Swing Arm Removal - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 2006, 12:39 pm Thread Starter
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Question Swing Arm Removal

I am finally into the clutch replacement. I am removing the swing arm, and have two questions:

Does right hand turning mean a normal clockwise tightening thread and left the reverse?

When heating these components, am I heating the frame and swing arm, or the fasteners temselves, or everything?

Today is too nice in New Jersey to be wrenching!

Velomaxx
97 Bakker Dakar K1200RS
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 2006, 1:01 pm
 
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I am in the process of replacing my slave cylinder and when I removed the swing arm the nuts, bearings, etc. all came out the 'normal' way (loosen=counterclockwise) regardless of left or right side. By the way, I personally am not that comfortable or experienced with using heat so I broke loose my swing arm nuts without, just used a long lever breaker bar and a length on pipe. No probs (I think).
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 2006, 3:58 pm Thread Starter
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They are all right hand (normal) thread on the swing arm, as you say, despite what the book says. I used an electric wagner paint heat gun. The heat makes a difference, but I am not that keen on torches unless it is on a bench. Those fasteners really break loose with a loud snap when you load up that breaker bar.

I used a six point 14mm impact socket on the inner fasteners after reading the "Need Help -Swing Arm Removal' thread about rounding off those bolts with a chrome socket. I used a 12 point chrome socket to remove the 30mm fasteners, but will get a 6 point impact socket to put them back on .

Not bad, but I took my time. So far so good.

Velomaxx
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 2006, 5:18 pm
 
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I'm also attempting to pull my trans out to get to the clutch. Removed the swingarm this afternoon, it was so easy after warming it up with my small Oxy/Acetylene torch. I heated the fastener and the surrounding area, not the frame. The big pieces came out easily, I should have heated the swingarm on the last piece using a 14mm socket but it came out with the help of a hammer.
I think I'm almost ready to pull the trans but wondering if we have to move/remove the ABS and battery box?

I changed the clutch in my oilhead RT about two months ago...I think it was a bit easier....maybe I just had more info before I started. Well it's 65 degrees here in Alabama, I think I fire up the RT, go for a ride to clear my head!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 2006, 5:33 pm Thread Starter
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I had the battery box out to install my Speigler clutch line. That's not too hard, but I'd rather not mess with the ABS box if I don't have to. Haven't looked that far ahead yet. I tried to leave the rear frame intact and just pulled up out of the way a bit. We'll see if that's enough. If you are going to change your clutch line, now is the time.

Velomaxx
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 8:43 pm
 
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I haven't had any luck searching these archives trying to find more info on clutch replacement, darn it. I got the trans to start coming back about a half inch....I'm thinking great but now the starter motor rear mount is hitting the frame crossmember. I must be missing something. Please let me know how you get your tranny out.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 9:39 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmac1958
.I'm thinking great but now the starter motor rear mount is hitting the frame crossmember. I must be missing something. Please let me know how you get your tranny out.
How do you have the engine supported? The trick I found, I made a wood brace and supported the frame where the foot pegs attached and a lift under on the engine. The engine will move in relation to the frame so the rear of it can come down slightly. Made it very easy to pull the transmission off. I'll try to locate a picture tomorrow.

Brent Boshart
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09 K1300S Light Grey (hers)
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 2006, 7:14 am
 
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Thanks for the tip.....that was my problem. I had the bike supported under the engine and handlebars, when I put jackstands under the rear frame and lowered the engine it gave me an inch clearance.
The housing around the clutch isn't dripping with oil and the clutch splines look good but I will replace the rear main anyway. Is there any tricks to installing the new seal?
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