K1200GT Overheating Problem - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 2011, 5:46 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stockton on Tees, , UK
Posts: 4
K1200GT Overheating Problem

Has anyone else out there had this problem? I met it last summer whilst negotiating congestion round Lille due to roadworks, and later in Schaffausen. I originally thought it was possibly due to a fan problem, but the service report on my return told me the air passages were blocked by three and a half years of flies and mud. They would fit me a new radiator (at around £500 uk) or I could take the radiator off, soak it for 2 days in the bath and refit it after suitably careful cleaning of the fins. So I did that, and boy was it filthy. I used a combination of soaking in hot soapy water and Muckoff followed by spraying water through it from the back. Eventually I could see the fins again. Phew! (Thinking about avoiding a £500 bill). Then I came to refitting it. Well my workshop info tells me the coolant is replaced under pressre (reminids me of a Queen song) but I was assured it could be refilled without resorting to that (good job 'cos I aint got the necessary kit anyway) because there is a bleed screw on the lhs as part of the water pump housing. So I set to and carefully refilled it, and kept my fingers crossed as I started the beast up and let it reach operating temperature. The bleed screw allowed loads of steam to escape so it was out on the road before putting the panels back on. Oh dear, there was the temperature going way up again, so back to my garage where I bled the system some more then let it cool. A couple of hours later I checked the level and set off to road test it again, and surprise surprise it all worked.
I do think that BMW aervicing should include a rad clean when they do the valves and spark plugs, it would have saved me a load of hassle. i suspect that the 'S' modls and the 1300 will suffer from the same problem. Oh, I fitted a fender extender as well to try to reduce the amount of mud getting thrwon thrown the plastic guard.
Teechabiker is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 2011, 3:05 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , , UK
Posts: 3,750
The radiator surface area is minimum anyway on all the K bikes. They have to run the system at 16psi to squeeze any overhead they can.

I have been careful to run a spacer through the fins as they can get distorted and fold across the airflow. You can also get them aligned with fine needle pliers. A thin spray coat of lamp black paint also helps.

First thing most say when somebody has an overheat problem is check and clean the rad fins, the second thing is make sure the pressure cap is sealing good.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
voxmagna is offline  
post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Mar 9th, 2011, 11:50 pm
Senior Member
 
robday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Posts: 132
The cooling system on these bikes is far more critical than most.
Why?
Because these are high compression engines. Bumping up the compression gives us more power AND more efficiency. But one of the costs is that they produce a lot of heat. While a lower compression engine might tolerate some clogged up cooling fins, it's much more of an issue on a high compression engine. That heat needs to be shed.
robday is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Mar 10th, 2011, 10:06 am
Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , , UK
Posts: 3,750
My car has a high compression engine, more bhp and sheds its heat ok. It rarely moves off the engine stat temperature and when the fans come on, is still controlled at the engine stat. temperature very quickly. In fact you can see how quickly by watching the gauge dropping.

K bikes have no decent sealed shrouds around the fan housing, just right angle ducting which is very airflow lossy. The radiators need more surface area, but this is not practical unless you do what the Japs do and design the rads as a wrap around.

In Winter, the temperature you see on the gauge is the engine stat. temperature. When the gauge reads higher than this, the cooling system has lost control as there is either insufficient airflow from the fans at low mph, or insufficient radiator area to bring down the temperature at 50 mph plus.

Motorcycle designers started with airflow cooling and met all the problems of city riding as engine sizes got bigger. But they know that engines (especially oil) can take a certain amount of peak heat overload and unless you are the city despatch rider sort, you will soon be moving with enough airflow to bring the temperature down.So the K bikes can take some extreme temperature cycles - but that doesn't mean it's a good thing.

K bikes are Sport Tourers, which kinda lets them off the hook if you are a heavy city commute rider with average speeds in hot Summer less than 50 mph, or ride in city tunnels a lot.

The issue of compression ratio is not the main factor, it's also the amount of ignition advance used to get performance. If you retard the static ignition timing, even by a couple of degrees, there is less heat produced at the low rpm end.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
voxmagna is offline  
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Oct 31st, 2016, 2:13 pm
Noob
 
tibbe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Luleċ, , Sweden
Posts: 7
Removed the side panels and front panel in front of the cooler and the fan. Little tricky with upper right bolt of the fan but not impossible,
Sprayed anti bug cleaning both in front of cooler and back. Then sprayed the cooler with low pressure water from the rear and out came a lot of sand and remains of mosquito’s ( very common on our area ) Was possible to clean the cooler w/o taking it out and refilling coolant fluid and underpressure bleeding and,,,,'
tibbe is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2003 K1200GT ...ABS problem? sloowpoke Technical, Repair and Maintenance 26 Feb 14th, 2015 8:09 pm
2006 K1200GT Clutch Problem echarton K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 32 Feb 6th, 2011 10:56 pm
K12 GT Overheating Problem Dazzle K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 10 Aug 24th, 2010 8:04 pm
Clutch slave problem 2004 K1200GT CrazyDiamond K1200RS/GT (Classic) 9 Oct 8th, 2009 3:38 pm
'04 RS overheating problem bob5150 K1200RS/GT (Classic) 1 Oct 12th, 2008 11:28 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome