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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 2006, 10:40 pm Thread Starter
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Question Clutch Replacement Heaven

While some of you have actually completed this task I am still chipping away at this.

I am at the stage of lifting the frame to remove the transmission and have a couple of questions.

Do you have to release the radiators to raise the frame?

Do you have to release/remove all the injectors and related components as in the book to remove the starter, that is assuming you must remove the starter?

I was at a dealer today and a tech told me I may have to grind away some of the right frame to get at the tranny. He said it was not structural damage and was out of sight. I gathered that he meant if you could not raise the frame enough. Thoughts?

He also made an effort to tell me that you need the BMW tools to be sure the seal removal/replacement process is done properly. I assume with some care this can be done with substitutes, since so many have done this.

After looking at the new K12S and K12R at the dealer I had half a mind to just keep taking the rest of the bike apart and sell the parts and buy a new K12R!! But I will press on!

Velomaxx
97 Bakker Dakar K1200RS
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 2006, 10:57 pm
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Velomaxx; I just posted this under Tranny leak, but it looks like you could use this site too.

I have never had to do a rear main seal on my bike but if you go to www.ibmwr.org site it has a lot of how to info.
The page for the tranny clutch R&R is http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/clutch-spline-lube2.shtml

Hope that helps.
Bazra
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 2006, 6:48 am
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You have to remove the starter bolts but no need to touch the radiators and injectors etc.

Grind the frame, really??? The back of the engine is going to swivel up and down a little, the trick is to get it at the right angle and the transmission is going to slip right off clearing everything.

I made a wood frame, and using the footpeg bolts and the holes on the sides of frame where the pegs mount, supported the bike. Then using a floor or bottle jack support the engine around the oilpan (protect the oil pan with a piece of wood in between). With the jack, you slightly change the angle of the engine in respect to the frame. Get the right position and you will have no problem pulling the transmission out.

To remove the rear main seal, you can use an inexpensive seal puller like this . To replace the real, you need to oil it slightly and then need something to drive it into place EVENLY the whole way. I found a big socket (I think it was a speciality socket for car bearings or something) that fit the seal perfectly, it worked really well.

Brent Boshart
10 R1200GS ADV (his)
09 K1300S Light Grey (hers)
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 2006, 7:29 am Thread Starter
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I thought the grinding comment a bit strange. I am going to do something similar to what you did, unless I can figure a way to lift the frame from a joist. Do you recall the rough weight of the tranny?

I've removed and seated seals the way you describe, I'll pick one of those OTC type pullers up.

These details help a lot. Thanks Brent.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2006, 6:40 am
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Hanging Frame

This is how I supported the frame and engine for the main seal replacement. The wood at the front tire and straps on the bars are only to steady bike while I wiggle the parts off. I threaded a couple jbolts,type used to hang bicycle, into joists and ran straps with a tiedown to maneuver frame. scissor jack with block of wood to support engine and did NOT loosen gas tank or any of engine supports. Transmission came right out with a little persistence. Once you clear the 1/4" tabs on trans. she'll come right out. No scratches or grinding frame. Trans. weight @50# I guess. It works well with a second set of hands. Saved a bunch of money by doing myself.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 2006, 12:34 pm
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spidle bolts??? Am I doing something wrong?

I have to replace the clutch slave, I've remove the bearings from the sides of the paralever, and I'm down to the "spindle" bolts that the bearings ride on. The spec's show 160Nm torque, but I've shattered two 14mm sockets already. I'm using 7-10min heat on the arm and bolt too. I've purchased a 14mm 6point impact socket to use. Am I doing something wrong, are these reverse threaded?? Have others found these bolts to be over torqed?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 2006, 2:22 pm
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Like you are doing, heat and an impact socket. They are not reverse threaded.

Was the clutch slave leaking? If so, you must replace the transmission seals too. Otherwise, you will be doing this again very soon. The brake fluid eats seals.

Brent Boshart
10 R1200GS ADV (his)
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 2006, 5:29 pm
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Right on man. The slave leaked at the banjo bolt last summer. I thought I was real smart when I fixed it with two 80cent washers. I asked a few questions at the LOCAL dealer, but no-one gave me a heads-up about the engine seals, until I lost all clutch (with no external fluid leak) last week. When I called Mike at Ozzies in Chico, CA, he knew right off what had happened. This seems to be a design flaw that I hope BMW addressed in later models, and would be nice if they covered the cost of now.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 2006, 8:42 am
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Next Step. Please HELP!

Ok, I got the bearing studs out last night. I'll have to replace the left one, as the head is pretty well buggered-up now.

Is it assumed one must replace the slave as a unit, or can it be fixed with a new internal seal?

How do I remove the seal on the end of the transmission input shaft? I tried pulling it with a awl, but the brake fluid seems to have made it real gooey.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 2006, 10:43 am
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The clutch slave is purchased as one unit.

There are two transmission seals you want to replace for sure. I think these are the numbers
23 12 7 667 733 shaft seal
23 12 7 656 019 shaft seal

That rear transmission seal is a major pain to get at to remove. I kept picking at it with an awl. Be careful not to mar the aluminum transmission housing were the seal is seated against.

Since you are in there anyway, I would replace the rear main engine seal too (or else Murphy's law will take effect...)

Brent

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