Originally Posted by H96669
Yes you are right.
But maybe someone with better drawing skills/less dislexia at electrical plans than me could redo it for our bikes.
Lets see....remove parking/taillight and I think the temp switching unit..... add speedometer and TWO battery grounds....
I'd even supply my BMW electrical diagrams but not for copying , some knowledge of German required.
Keeps coming up over and over again them grounding gremlins, too long sometimes to explain in writing.
After a while I worked out how to use the oem wiring diagrams and I'm fairly ok with them now.
1. I refer to the translation of wire colors from German to English first.
2. Then I worked out how to jump around the sheets using the numbers at the bottom of the pages. That's a cute way of showing a large circuit on several sheets. Ideally you want everything on one A1 size page or a huge Plasma TV and Pdf file. Sorry I'm not up for that! But you can scan their drawings for the areas you need, print and physically cut and paste, then highlight the circuit lines and take out to the bike.
3. The page listing the blocks and modules in English is important.
4. I plug german words into BabelFish for translation if I'm not sure. Translation can be strange, but you work it out.
5. You can't always assume the oem colors are correct for your bike. I use pins pushed through the wire and a multimeter to make sure the wire is going where I expect.
6. Wiring junctions (e.g GROUNDS) are often physically wrapped inside the loom and their diagrams don't tell you where. A lot of junctions are inside the 'electrical box' right side under the tank with plastic caps over or soldered and heat shrinked.
If you are trying to work from the old whiteponds site freebie, then I sympathise because technical drawings like circuits need to be scanned at much higher resolutions than what was uploaded and converted carefully to make them readable. I've recently had to get some electronic copies of HP test equipment manuals and the firms that sell that kind of service know how to do it properly. The Clymer circuits aren't bad and some might find that easier to use as it has colors.
The K's wiring weakness is that part of the loom that goes up inside the cockpit and is wiggling around with the steering. There are an awful lot of wires in there. Because those BMW cheapskates put in wires with thin cores and not many strands, they don't handle the flexing very well.
What happens is the wire breaks inside the PVC jacket and it's virtually impossible to spot, even after removing the loom tape. My trick is to unwrap the tape back as far as possible, warm the bundle up (carefully!) with a hair dryer, then carefully tug on each wire. The wire that pulls like a length of elastic is the broken wire. If I need to replace a length, I tend to choose silicon wire with plenty of strands in the copper core. I've only had to do this twice so far.
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