Not shifting after replacing final drive?? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 2012, 8:16 pm Thread Starter
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Not shifting after replacing final drive??

First time user, Just pulled the final drive off my 1999 K1200LT, took it to the dealer to be rebuilt. Reinstalled it fired the bike up and nothing, does not engage in gear. What have i done or not done?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 2012, 9:34 pm
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Two part driveshaft, the rear part has to be locked on the RD, there is an internal circlip on the yoke and a groove on the RD input shaft.

If not locked in, the rear part of the driveshaft will move ahead into the front part as you install the RD...thus no drive.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2012, 1:58 am Thread Starter
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H96669

Thanks for the reply. So this circlip that is installed on the yoke, since i do not remember doing anything with it would that have been done at the dealer during the rebuild process?

Since this does not make sense to me let me further explain what i have done. I removed the final drive dropped it off to the dealer for rebuild. Once it was done before installing it i put in two of the wheel studs so i could rotate the drive to see if the drive shaft rotated freely. It did, so (and here is where i may be missing something) I proceeded to insert the rear drive shaft onto the front drive shaft. Is this where i may have missed the circlip? Attached is a JPEG of the procedure that i followed. The picture top left is what the final drive looked like when i brought it home from being rebuilt at the dealer. Took a bit to figure this upload out, not able to upload a pdf, so had to download SnagIt to get the conversion from pdf to JPEG completed. I am hoping the upload of the JPEG works.

I appreciate you taking the time to read and respond.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2012, 2:20 am
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Just to confirm, so when you pulled the Final Drive, it came away with the rear part of the drive shaft attached, did it come of easily?

The reason I ask is that when I had my R1100 BM and pulled the FD the 2 parts of the drive shaft had become really stuck together and I actually ended up inadvertantly pulling the drive shaft off the gearbox output shaft which turned into a nightmare as getting it back on took forever.

Tim
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2012, 5:41 am
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This happened to somebody else who got the same surprise.

The drive shaft has splines at either end and there is a ring (we called a circlip) clipped in a groove in the splines, so the splined shaft can be pushed into its mate and the ring internally provides some positive locking action to stop the shaft sliding out. Usually the snap action of the ring is such that you need quite a bit of levering to separate the splines. My guess is your splined shaft stub front or rear is missing a circlip, causing the shaft to pull out easily and you did not notice.

If yours came out easily, then I suspect the locking circlips may be missing or has worked itself out of the groove and is just sitting over the splines.

The part of the shaft most likely to become disconnected is at the front hidden inside the rubber gaitor. It probably got disconnected when you were putting back the RD and has now dropped down disconnected inside the swingarm. Fortunately, since you have not ridden the bike, there should be no damage.

Others here will tell you what a fiddle it is to get that front shaft locked in with the swingarm connected, although I made sure mine was right by first locking in the front of the driveshaft, fitting the swingarm then the final drive. The front gaitor boot is a pain to get back and must be fitted correctly, else water will get inside the swingarm and quickly take out the driveshaft. If you can pull that front boot back and get a flashlight in there you can see by rotating the rear wheel if the drive shaft is turning or disconnected.



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Last edited by voxmagna; Sep 25th, 2012 at 6:06 am.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2012, 10:38 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
This happened to somebody else who got the same surprise.

The drive shaft has splines at either end and there is a ring (we called a circlip) clipped in a groove in the splines, so the splined shaft can be pushed into its mate and the ring internally provides some positive locking action to stop the shaft sliding out. Usually the snap action of the ring is such that you need quite a bit of levering to separate the splines. My guess is your splined shaft stub front or rear is missing a circlip, causing the shaft to pull out easily and you did not notice.

If yours came out easily, then I suspect the locking circlips may be missing or has worked itself out of the groove and is just sitting over the splines.

The part of the shaft most likely to become disconnected is at the front hidden inside the rubber gaitor. It probably got disconnected when you were putting back the RD and has now dropped down disconnected inside the swingarm. Fortunately, since you have not ridden the bike, there should be no damage.

Others here will tell you what a fiddle it is to get that front shaft locked in with the swingarm connected, although I made sure mine was right by first locking in the front of the driveshaft, fitting the swingarm then the final drive. The front gaitor boot is a pain to get back and must be fitted correctly, else water will get inside the swingarm and quickly take out the driveshaft. If you can pull that front boot back and get a flashlight in there you can see by rotating the rear wheel if the drive shaft is turning or disconnected.

Thats how I did mine in the end, bit of a faff, but at least I knew it was on properly.

Tim
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2012, 10:49 am
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Yes it is a fiddle to connect the front part of the driveshaft, looking back at your post with more time, I'd think the front is disconnected otherwise it would make quite a racket if you'd engage the transmission and the driveshaft spun loose into the swingarm.

But just for clarification did you static test that or did you try with engine running/tranny in gear?

So to lock the front part of the driveshaft in place....I am getting good at that. What I do is stick a piece of wood dowel about a foot long in the splines then tape that so it doesn't spin. Then taking into account the flop of the U-joint I carefully insert that into the swingarm using the dowel as a sort of a handle. A little fiddling around and you should feel the yoke engage into the splines. That can take a minute or....10-15. Don't get frustrated, it does go in.

Then when I know it is engaged, a sharp rap with a hammer on the dowel will push the driveshaft all the way in and engage/lock the circlip on the transmission output shaft.

When you have the pieces apart, not a bad idea to phase the driveshaft, that is line up the U-joints, then mark both parts to keep everything phased as you install the RD.THAT is where it can get fiddly.

Too bad can't post pics of the phasing from here, I do have such but it is well discussed so maybe a Google search will get you there. If you get the BMWON magazine, I think sometimes in the spring 2008 (9 ??) there is a very good article by Paul Glaves on why it is important to phase them driveshafts.Don't know if that one is archived yet, haven't had time to look for it again. But that "Phasing" also goes for automotive driveshafts, so the info is out there. Certainly not in our manuals.....all they say is re-install as found, whatever that means. BTW a new BMW driveshaft will come phased in the box....install as found.

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Honda CB 750 F at 18
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2012, 1:22 pm
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Phase that shaft

I used white out to mark the greased up splines so that I could see that one spline marked to mate-up with it's proper spline-groove so it looked like a line. grease those splines.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2012, 6:28 pm
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I tried fiddling it H's way but the damn spigot kept flopping down. After 30 mins I gave up and took the swingarm off. That allowed me to permanently fix the front boot to the swingarm, then only leaving the other (easy) end to push on to the tranny. Now I can roll it back anytime without fear of it coming unplugged from the swingarm.

Like many other rubber parts on these bikes, once that boot gets oil on it, it swells up which is why it is a pain to get back and will probably shoot out on the first road bump or pillion carried.. Why they should design a boot which is male one end and female the other beats me, when they could have designed it for male swingarm to male tranny with clips over to hold it on.

Funny thing about spline greasing which everybody gets worked up over because of problems on the earlier Beemers. If you look very carefully or take a scalpel to the edge of a spline you will see that it has some kind of hard 'conformal' coating. Looks to me like they are dipped. Their sizing of the splined shafts allows for this coating thickness. I had mine stick when I replaced it correctly phased, but not sticking if it went back the same way it had been running. The coating seems to wear itself in and if you change the alignment, the shafts may not go back so smoothly as they came out.



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Last edited by voxmagna; Sep 25th, 2012 at 6:35 pm.
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