93 K75 - click & dead after attempted jump start - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 2013, 10:24 pm Thread Starter
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93 K75 - click & dead after attempted jump start

I went to start the bike. Battery was low. It tried to turn over but failed to start. I hooked it up to the car battery. I'm as certain as I can be that I made the right connections. Car engine off. I can't remember if it happened as soon as I connected the jumper cables OR when I pressed the ignition switch but I hear d a loud "click" and then the bike was completely dead. Where before jump start I saw the ignition lights, now I see nothing at all. I have the manual, tools and enthusiasm but not sure where to start. I have checked the fuses (under left hand panel) and they are all intact. Any advice?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old May 15th, 2013, 3:50 pm
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Check you have both black ground wires connected at the battery negative terminal post and did not forget to connect the second wire.

You may have a faulty starter relay which went faulty whilst you were trying the crank the bike on a flat battery, which you should never do.

The moment you hit the starter to crank, there is a loud click from the starter relay and all the cockpit lights dim out, you MUST stop and get a decent fully charged battery in there.

Saving money by jump starting a very low or bad battery will bring you trouble. Your bike has many electronic and computer type modules in its system. If you apply the same thinking you used for old cars or trucks built before 1960, you can bring yourself a heap of trouble.



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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old May 17th, 2013, 5:16 pm Thread Starter
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Hi. Thanks for replying. I am charging the battery as I type. There was only 1 ground wire. Will try to attach pic. Should there be 2? Is there any way to test the starter relay? If the starter relay blew, would that explain the (already dim) lights on the instrument cluster going completely out?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old May 20th, 2013, 1:26 pm
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Apologies, I forgot you were on the K75.

The dim lights says to me that either your battery cannot give out the starter current or the starter has a fault which means it is taking too much current, but this is unlikely.

When you first connect the battery and just turn the key on, but do not crank, your lights should be bright - test them! If you have no lights on in the cockpit or headlights, then start looking for loom wiring faults maybe put on by jump starting. If the lights are working ok, then move on:

Next thing is to hang a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals and check the voltage is about 12.5 volts. Then looking at the voltmeter you crank. If the voltmeter says your battery voltage is below about 10 volts then your battery is dead.

If the voltmeter says your battery voltage is still 12.5 volts, but your lights go dim, then you have a problem with dirty battery terminal contacts on the battery leads, starter lead, or dirty ground connections. Bad ground connections are most likely.

If the starter relay heard to click 'on' and the bike cranks slowly or lights dim, then the starter relay should not be your problem.



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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2013, 9:39 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. Update is as follows.

My battery was completely dead. Tried it on a trickle charger with no effect. Took it to the local garage and they confirmed it would not accept any charge.

Got another battery. Confirmed it was fully charged. When I went to connect it, sparks flying as I connect it. Turned the key to the on position and tried connecting again. Without pushing the starter button, as soon as I connect the battery the bike tries to start! Am thinking somehow the starter relay must be stuck in the ON position.

After a bit of goggling, I think on my K75 if the starter relay is in the ON position, another relay called the load shed relay is put into the OFF position which seems to cut off power to lights and I assume the ignition lights on the instrument cluster.

So some of this is starting to make sense. When I tried to jumpstart it I somehow welded the starter relay together which would explain the lights on the instrument cluster going dead. But I must also have completely killed the battery! I'm thinking now that the most likely explanation is I got my jumpstart wires reversed. I, er, wasn't thinking clearly that day...

Anyway, next step is to see if I can free up the starter relay...
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 2013, 8:23 am
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starter relay contacts are welded due to trying to start with weak battery. I have read that some guys remove relay and 'whonk' it with hammer to get contacts to release. Good Luck....

Mike Kelly

Triple M Engineering

K12RS

Stanley, NC
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 2013, 6:51 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help thus far. The good news is I am back in business. I took out the starter relay, tapped it a few times and now all is good. I would have liked to open the relay but its tricky to do that without damaging it. It has little clips all around the rectangle box. Pic attached. Any tips on how people open the relay? I thought about cutting the clips off and using a tie to hold it all together. Thought I'd better ask the experts first...

Another couple of questions:

When I opened the box under the tank where the relay lives, I noticed 2 connectors just sitting there. Pic of them attached also. Any idea what they are about?

Last question is when I took off the fuel tank I noticed a couple of tubes nearer the back of the tank that also just sit there. Wondering what they are about....(another couple of pics attached)
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2013, 2:01 pm
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Can't tell you about the relay....been too long.If you decide to replace it check with EuroMotoelectrics they are cheaper there.

But maybe you should open and clean the starter. Trying to start with a low battery may have accelerated brush wear and an accumulation of carbon dust inside the starter may compromise the grounding to the load shed relay causing electrical gremlins down the road.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2013, 2:15 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks H96669. Can you explain why trying to start the bike on a low battery is bad for it? I would have just thought that if it doesn't have enough power to start, there's no bad side effect other than it won't start?

Also a bit confused about jumpstarting, from say a car, a bike with a low battery. Why isn't this a safe thing to do? Surely its the same principle of jump starting a car from another car? I think I must have reversed the leads when I tried to jump start it, which obviously is bad but other guys I know with bikes have said they've often jumpstarted their bike from a car no problem. Same info on web. Is there something different about the K75 in this regard?

Last edited by ciaranom; May 24th, 2013 at 2:16 pm. Reason: spelling
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old May 25th, 2013, 8:24 am
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Overheats the starter with a low battery. All the heat at the commutator/brushes and then parts wear.Same with the starter relay, heats up and fuses.

In any case them starters are easy to clean and the brush set if required isn't expensive. $15-20.00 or so. Make sure you mark the covers so you can re-enlign them as found.I am saying that also because it is much cheaper to replace a set of brushes "if required" than waiting too long for them to wear out and then the armature could be toast.

Not a problem really jumpstarting but it is better to connect the leads and then wait 5-10 minutes to give the dead/low battery some sort of surface charge. If it doesn't crank in the first couple seconds, stop and re-assess.

Re:starter relay.....I looked around yesterday, tought I had one of them just to see if I could open it but looks like I gave it away.

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