K1200RS ABS pump not stopping - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old May 19th, 2014, 5:41 am Thread Starter
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Location: Espoo, Espoo, Finlnd
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K1200RS ABS pump not stopping

Hello,

As said in the title, the ABS pump keeps running even when the power is turned off. The only way I can stop it is to remove the battery cable.

- Does anyone have an idea what might the probable causes be? What first comes to mind is that the ABS relay may be broken/stuck. The worst scenario is that the ABS unit itself is broken.

- Is there a way to disconnect the ABS unit power so that I could drive to service instead of calling a tow truck.

- In the Clymer repair manual I can see a wiring schema (page 456) which shows an ABS cancel switch. Is this a switch one can use to stop the unit or is it something not meant to be accessed?

This is the older ABS II Brembo system, the bike is from year 2000, the manufacturing model year is 1998.

Thanks a bunch,
robopoulos
Finland
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2014, 11:04 am
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Running the ABS pump for any length of time is bad news. The motor is not rated for continuous duty! The ABS pump is permanently hardwired to the battery through a relay inside the module.

If you get the bike towed to a dealer they will probably stitch you up with a horrendous bill since they regard the ABS hydro unit as 'unserviceable'.

However, from your description it sounds as though the relay inside the ABS II unit has got welded contacts. If so then that is good news because your ABS II module is repairable, but not by a dealer. Relay contacts can be 'unstuck' or the relay replaced with an aftermarket equivalent.

The ABS system is not fused for obvious safety reasons so that is not an option. To stop the pump you would have to trace the thick red wire into the ABS unit with the battery disconnected and temporarily disconnect it.

This is such an expensive part to replace that you should find somebody with some electrical knowledge prepared to have a look inside the ABS II module at the relay. From memory it is under the first cover and not too difficult to find if you follow the thicker red (?) wire.



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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Jun 8th, 2014, 6:46 am Thread Starter
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@voxmagna

Indeed, the problem was the relay and it's welded contact.

This relay actually has a bad design flaw IMO (as an engineer) which most likely leads to this particular failure instead of just not allowing current to flow - what an insulating spike normally would/could cause. The relay has two identical parallel contacts for the motor power current, operated simultaneuosly with a single coil. The other contact had a spike hindering the pair of contacts from releasing. Not so hard to imagine that the current will keep on flowing through the other contact.

Instead of this kind of construction both contacts should have their own coils or there should be just one single larger contact. In the latter case the current would just stop flowing when a spike appears but the brakes would still work. As it is now when the relay fails on the road you may get a broken ABS motor as well.

The other contact was not badly contaminated, the other one was clean. I cleaned the relay and now it's ok, for some time at least.

Cheers,
robopoulos

Last edited by robopoulos; Jun 8th, 2014 at 7:10 am.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 2015, 3:09 pm
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Thank you guys, found was looking for !!
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