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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 2014, 11:45 am Thread Starter
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Location: Lorette, , Canada
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New member with issue

Picked up a 2007 k1200r sport with 17k miles on it last summer

Have since replaced the heated grips, the fuel sensor, oil /filter, air filter, battery, coolant and spark-plugs.

Wants: muffler, digital speedo, aftermarket seat. Power increase... Restrictor removable?
Needs: tires next season for sure

The issue:
Last night I was rolling down the highway and clicked the high beams in order to see the dark road... And the engine and all the electrical stopped for 1/2 a second... I released the high beam button and everything started back up... Crash avoided. The brake failure light had come on briefly but I continued on as I was miles from home and assistance.
I noticed that even at highway speed when I depressed the clutch the headlights would dim as the rpms lowered. As I was almost home I slowed for a stop sign with the clutch in and it stalled but restarted. I kept the rpms high for the remainder of the ride home..
My first thought is alternator.. The last thing I need is a repair cost...


Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Also any local Manitoban k riders around?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 2014, 1:19 pm
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Location: Yorktown, VA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bersarker
Picked up a 2007 k1200r sport with 17k miles on it last summer

The issue:
Last night I was rolling down the highway and clicked the high beams in order to see the dark road... And the engine and all the electrical stopped for 1/2 a second... I released the high beam button and everything started back up... Crash avoided. The brake failure light had come on briefly but I continued on as I was miles from home and assistance.
I noticed that even at highway speed when I depressed the clutch the headlights would dim as the rpms lowered. As I was almost home I slowed for a stop sign with the clutch in and it stalled but restarted. I kept the rpms high for the remainder of the ride home..
My first thought is alternator.. The last thing I need is a repair cost...


Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Also any local Manitoban k riders around?
Don't know much about K1200R specifically but my first check would be to do a load test on the battery even though it was replaced last year.

Nick
1993 K75S
1991 R100RT
1982 Yamaha XJ650RJ Seca
1978 R100S
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 2014, 4:40 pm
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I'm like Stokester not knowing the R. But I would lean towards the alternator because even a low battery should give you bright lights if it is working correctly. Seems as though the battery may not be charging.

Sounds like you spent some money on this bike. Why not go and buy a cheap digital multimeter? Then you can check the alternator is charging and the condition of the battery and many many other things. Here's one example, but shop around and you may get something cheaper.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Digita...ct_description



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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 12th, 2014, 10:53 pm Thread Starter
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I took the battery out today, still had 13.5 volts
I ran the bike and disconnected the wires to the battery, sometimes it ran on the alternator alone for several seconds sometimes it stopped immediately
So the alternator is faulty.. brushes are probably getting worn out (18000 miles?)
Anyone have experience with this?
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 2014, 7:53 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bersarker
I took the battery out today, still had 13.5 volts
I ran the bike and disconnected the wires to the battery, sometimes it ran on the alternator alone for several seconds sometimes it stopped immediately
So the alternator is faulty.. brushes are probably getting worn out (18000 miles?)
Anyone have experience with this?
I find it unlikely that your brushes are worn, they last many years/miles. The battery acts like a big electrical filter so modern electronic controlled vehicles will react unpredictably
without it in the circuit.

What type of battery do you have? AGM?

Normally a fully charged batter will read approximately 12.6 volts.
To determine the true state of charge of a battery its necessary to first remove a higher-than-normal surface charge. This is easily done by adding a load (e.g. lights, heated grips).

If you attach a multimeter to the battery and start the bike, what is the reading? Should be around 14 volts at a higher RPM than idle. I don't know what it should be for this model.

While it may be a problem with your alternator, it's best to check it out.

Nick
1993 K75S
1991 R100RT
1982 Yamaha XJ650RJ Seca
1978 R100S
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 2014, 9:28 pm Thread Starter
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Seems I lucked out... The negative terminal was loose.
Charged the battery put it all back together and so far no issues .
Bike off the battery was close to 13
Running it was over 14
Thanks for the suggestions.
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