2000 K1200RS running Hot - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 2006, 9:13 pm Thread Starter
 
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2000 K1200RS running Hot

Help. I just took my new RS out...70 degree Day. BEAUTIFUL

Maybe it was the day, maybe it is the Bike, but it just wanted to run.....and run fast...THe 70 degree climate seems to encourage the motor to purr...

Then again, this is a new bike for me, and I can hear it purr in the garage...

QUESTION???? I am a newb...

The temp gage seems to be running on the high side. It was hovering almost to the red...Now, I was not on it that hard, nor was the day esp. hot....

Being that I just printed my manual yesterday....again, I am a NEWB.....but any advice?

I did notice my fan come on as I pulled it in the garage...so, it is working, but maybe not
when/as it should.....

Is this a common problem or is that I actually have a temp gage and for the first time in my life, I have the luxury of actually seeing the engine temp....instead of feeling it...Uhm, leave that alone....

suggestions?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 2006, 4:18 am
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There's been lots of threads on this. Summary as follows:

When riding at your temperature the fans shouldn't be on.
Your fans do come on so that's good - just make sure both fans are on.
My fans come on when the temperature gage is about 2/3 up.
At your temperature when riding I'd expect my gage to be about 1/2 way or a shade higher.
It's normal for fans to come on after you stop and stay on afterwards for a couple of minutes, with the ignition on.

It might be worth checking your coolant mix and level so you know you've got a 50-60% mixture.
I've never had a 'New' bike, but if yours is, then it's normal for the motor to run tight and temperatures may be a bit higher than normal to start with.

I wouldn't expect fans to be on during a ride over 30 mph. I sometimes wish BMW had included a 'fans on' lamp in the cockpit panel.

I haven't had my temperature gage sit in the red because I'm not in such hot climes. These bikes have big power, relatively small radiator area and small fans, so don't expect coolant temperatures to be stable like in a cage, they can swing about a bit, BUT should remain stable on cruise when there's more airflow.



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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 2006, 8:02 am
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If you were riding at say 40mph on a straight and level road the temp. gauge should not have been almost into the red zone on a 70° day. If it does stay that high, call your dealer and let him know what is happening.
Make sure that it is noted as a problem when you take the bike in for the 600mi. check.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 2006, 12:18 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
Make sure that it is noted as a problem when you take the bike in for the 600mi. check.
I gotta think that since it's a new to him 2000 model, the 600 mile checkup's already been done.

And yeah, steady cruising on a 70 degree day can cause the temp guage to read a little on the high end. As long as the bike is NOT in the red, and the fans work when it does go red, it ain't a problem.

Hell, I've had mine near the red, fans running, at 40 degree weather go up a mountain pass in 2nd gear.

tim-----still on the right side of the frostline

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 2006, 12:43 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shook sez
I gotta think that since it's a new to him 2000 model, the 600 mile checkup's already been done.

And yeah, steady cruising on a 70 degree day can cause the temp guage to read a little on the high end. As long as the bike is NOT in the red, and the fans work when it does go red, it ain't a problem.

Hell, I've had mine near the red, fans running, at 40 degree weather go up a mountain pass in 2nd gear.
Tim
Me bad, should have read the heading.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 2006, 2:33 pm
 
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I've had the same problem three times on my '01RS. Turned out to be a defective radiator cap. The original ones, and my first replacement, seemed to be designed to fail. That latest one I got made a big difference.

Not sure I understand why the cap was the problem, but it sure was the fix.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 2006, 3:27 pm
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Good point: Radiator cap keeps the cooling system pressurised, which raises the coolant boiling point. Without the cap, the coolant won't get so much heat away and its 'normal' temperature will be higher. Usually when this starts, you get more coolant overflow via the reservoir due to vapour locks and may be topping it up more often. The other possibility is some air trapped in the cooling system reducing volume of coolant, but as we said, keep an eye on it and inform your dealer.

Just topping up the reservoir doesn't guarantee coolant can get past an airlock into the radiator headers. There's a procedure in the archives for refilling and getting trapped air out, anybody changing a cap would need to know this, if they don't then cap after cap would produce no fix.

When the bike is hot, run your pinkies over the top sections and hoses of each rad. - they should feel hot and both at about the same temperature with some fall in temperature as you move downwards.



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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 2006, 7:28 pm Thread Starter
 
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The bike is a 2000. and the whole BMW thing is new to me.

It has about 20,000 miles when I purchased it, which was a few short...cold weeks ago...

Again, I did just print out the manual to dig some information up on the bike.

I was a long time cruiser guy, and the Farings and the technical engineering on this bike os far more advanced than I am accustomed too....

That being said, I am not (yet) comfortable with where anything even is on the bike, without manual in hand.

I will run it again soon after I'll do a good once over with the manual in hand. (honestly, to even find the radiator...ha)....

The bike has been extremely well maintained, but as like any new_used purchase, you cannot count on anybody once it is in your garage....

It will go in shortly for a once over by a local dealer. Although I am more than capable to handle most anything on other bikes...this one is almost intimidating.

Thanks for the advice. I will check the hoses, monitor the gage. and make sure I am not running TOO hot. make sure both fans are on, and be aware of the reaction of the fans...

maintained
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 2006, 4:05 am
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You're not alone with unfamiliarity. These bikes are very much unlike traditional bikes. The CD manual has photos showing where things are, but first time around the photo angles seem strange and don't always help.

Everything is under plastic, so learning to remove it carefully is a first step. For now, just alert your dealer in case cooling becomes a later issue.

When you ran your air cooled bikes in slow traffic, you didn't think much about it until the idle became erratic. Now you have a temperature gage. When coolant starts pouring out steaming and frothing, the guage has gone past the redline stop, the fans aren't running and the idle is erratic - you know you've really got big problems!

The same thing happens with oil pressure gages, when there's just a light and it's off you're happy - but wow, seeing changing oil pressure can get you paranoid.



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