2008 k1200gt xenon bulb not working - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old May 2nd, 2015, 3:36 pm Thread Starter
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Lightbulb 2008 k1200gt xenon bulb not working

my hid bulb will light for 1 second then go out on start up. I replaced bulb with an aftermarket Sylvania D1R and it did not fix the problem, I bought an after market bulb from china and it worked for about 5 min. I then took it to dealer and I was told it was likely the ballast, so I replaced that and still the identical problem.

So in Canadian prices the ballast is 750, bulbs are 350. So I'm getting frustrated that I'm tossing good money at this problem without success.

Any ideas???

tks

Chad
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old May 2nd, 2015, 9:14 pm
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try both a new ballast and bulb, an aftermarket set such as the one's Pirate has should work. Probably not plug & play, but a bit of double checking connections etc. it should work.

My aftermarket HID quit, it took a ballast and a new bulb, old bulb would not work with new ballast, new bulb would not with old ballast. It also made the BC go crazy ???, till both were replaced.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old May 3rd, 2015, 4:48 am
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Sylvania D1R
That HID lamp doesn't sound like an aftermarket H base clone to me. More like it is a BMW OEM HID - Lucky guy!

Even so all other things being o.k I would have expected that lamp to be as good as the original fitment - that is why you have oem HIDs - to be able to easily replace the lamps (which rarely fail).

It sounds to me as though the ballast unit or wiring is faulty - it starts but an over current fault shuts it down.

You need to find the BMW ballast unit, photo the label and identification and see if you can find a cheaper alternative made by one of the reputable lamp companies selling automotive ballasts for a 35 watt HID lamp. With luck BMW will have used standardized ballast connector plugs, but knowing BMW they could have done something different to lock you in to their part.

Be careful messing with the HID ballast wiring. Allow at least an hour with ignition off after trying to start the lamp, before getting your fingers amongst the connectors and wiring. Before considering a replacement ballast/starter, carefully check its wiring to the lamp, connectors and the lamp holder for any wiring damage, burning or water.



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Last edited by voxmagna; May 3rd, 2015 at 4:57 am. Reason: Safety Note
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2015, 11:36 am Thread Starter
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its an oem ballast

So to be clear I did order the original ballast from the dealer and it made no difference with any of the bulbs, ironically the cheap china D1R bulb lasts about 2 seconds on start up and my original bulb lasts about 1 second. I could order an oem bulb but they are $350 CAD and I'm not confident that'll fix it either BUT as aj commented he needed to have the right combination of ballast and bulb for his to work. I have done significant research on aftermarket ballasts and ordered one and although they sell them as plug and play they are no where near a proper fit and the ballast on the k1200gt mounts to the bottom of the headlight assembly. Aftermarket would require splicing wires and then finding room to put the aftermarket ballast and find a way to seal the opening where the old ballast originally mounted, and the wiring aspect is well above my current knowledge. I'd try a true plug and play if they made them but I haven't found one yet.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2015, 12:32 pm
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HID wiring harnesses cannot just be 'spliced' unless you know what you are doing. The lamp supply is hundreds of volts and the ignitor is 1000s of volts. That's why the wiring should look a lot different to the normal low voltage wires used everywhere else. Even the connectors used on HID harnesses are high voltage and extremely so for the ignitor.

When others may say that one lamp works and another doesn't I get suspicious. The common unproven part left in your HID system is the wiring harness and connections. You have to treat some of it like an HT ignition system with a lamp on the end instead of a spark plug. I have a pair of those same lamps in my auxiliaries driven from a Hella non-oem ballast. I tried another lamp once and it worked fine.

I can only suggest your ballast to lamp wiring is suspect. Unfortunately because of the voltages involved it would be hard for me to tell you how to test it, because leakage of a few hundred kilohms caused by water or tracking inside a connector will stop the lamp from igniting. If tracking has already occurred, there will be a high voltage short causing the ballast to fault.

If you are an electrician or know one, I would suggest you disconnect the ballast, ignitor if separate and lamp. Then using a test Megger on the highest voltage range, check for leakage from each pin on the lamp holder to the other 2 pins.

If a 35 W lamp and lamp ballast for a 35 watt lamp are not working together, or work with some lamps and not others, I would put that down to losses in the HID wiring harness due to age, water, or breakdown of insulation. Those issues can reduce the strike voltage just like an ignition system. Internal lamp gas pressure during manufacture can vary to the extent that a low ignitor or maintained high voltage would cause the lamp to strike but the voltage losses will not sustain the arc.

Another issue is the wiring or fuses feeding the ballast have for some reason degraded and it can no longer supply the high HID ballast startup current causing the ballast to lock out. That degradation could be something as simple as a dirty fuse holder, or even a fuse that makes contact initially, but open circuits when there is a high current draw. If it is possible to temporarily wire the ballast direct to the battery terminals - try that. Also trace the wiring on the ballast d.c input side. What do BMW do, does that wiring go via a relay that has now got bad contacts? Or have BMW used wiring connectors which may have gone bad? On the d.c ballast input you are not looking for a voltage breakdown but the inability to supply up to 20 Amps as the lamp strikes. Have you carefully checked your battery terminals and cleaned them? The starter motor has its own terminal, separate from the loom terminal which needs to carry the high lamp start current. One of the protection features of most HID ballasts is to shut down quickly if the input d.c voltage drops below a threshold. Most current/voltage drop on a HID lamp ballast wiring occurs during lamp ignition.



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Last edited by voxmagna; May 4th, 2015 at 12:54 pm.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2015, 2:21 pm Thread Starter
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vox,

I appreciate the detailed advise, I will see if I can test for amps, I had been testing for volts with no success, (however the signal lights test fine, but I can't get any good readings off the headlight plug) it would give a reading for a second and then 0. But perhaps amps will reveal something new. I currently have the fearings and front end torn down but have determined I will likely need to strip more or the bike to get access to continue tracing the wires to see if I can find any faulty areas, the bike it like showroom conditions and garage kept with only 19k so it has not seen any great deal of bad driving conditions other than the odd rainy day. I have checked as many connectors as I can currently access but will continue the tear down and to trace more wires.

Chad
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2015, 8:57 pm Thread Starter
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tested wire high voltage wire

just tested the high voltage wire from the ballast to the bulb. There was a resistance of 2 ohms on each of the 3 wires. Does this seem normal or excessive???

tks

Chad
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2015, 3:38 am
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I hope you know what you are doing with HID circuits.

The trigger voltage can be up to 25,000 Volts and the lamp voltage 400-500 volts before arc strike. After arc strike the lamp voltage drops to about 12 volt with arc running and stable.

Of course there is sufficient current to kill you.



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