Tough one.... - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 2006, 12:11 pm Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 3
Cool Tough one....

So here's my story...I own a 2000 K1200RS. After the winter, my battery was low. I tried to crank over my bike and subsequently locked my "Starter Relay" into the "ON" position, meaning my bike would try and turn over when connecting the battery, even with the ignition in the "off" position (lesson learned...NEVER try to over-crank your K12). Anyway, I went to the dealer and the owner was nice enough to take me into the back area and show me where the relay is located. I planned on doing this myself (The relay, by the way is located under the gas tank). Unfortunately, the OWNER showed me the wrong location the of starter relay, and had me replace the "Fuel control module".

Here's the tricky part.... The "Starter relay" that he gave me was a control module for the NEW upgraded starter-relay-harness, which fit EXACTLY into the spot where the fuel module was. Yes it was a different color, but I figured it was just a new part.

Any-frickin'-how, I came to the forum's here (which I should have done in the first place), and learned the trick to "Un-stick" the starter-relay (simply push the START button while it is trying to crank over.... duh). Well NOW...my "Fuel-gauge" and "Low fuel indicator light" do not work anymore.

The dealer did take back the part (which are not returnable) and acknowledged that he was partially responsible for this, BUT said, "I need to make an appointment to diagnose the fuel-gauge problem, and that it would take a couple hours (at $95 per hour) to diagnose.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how and diagnose this myself?

Much appreciated.

Sarge
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 2006, 1:53 pm
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Location: , , UK
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He's probably right on the time to spend, I'd say that was fair. The problem you have now is something has failed. Your dealer has an advantage in that he should only fit and charge you for faulty parts, whereas you might make a wrong judgement and pay for parts that were ok. Even worse, you may accidentally put on another fault, the problem becomes more complex and the dealer charges you another 2 hours. Always ask for faulty parts to be returned, then you can verify them faulty afterwards.

I'd grovel and try get the dealer to charge 1/2 the rate plus parts or you ride in with the plastic off if he is close, that would be a good deal.

I know it's easy to do what you did, but there are many electrical parts tucked away on our bikes, often the wire code colours aren't reliable. Before I work on anything, I use a multimeter to check that parts are doing what I'd expect first and have voltages around them in the right places according to the diagrams.

I've seen several posts in the past where modifications have been advised based on wire colours. I never trust any wire until I've checked it goes where it's supposed to.



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