I did the rear main seal myself
I replaced the rear main seal on my '99 K12RS on Sat. I will try to post some pics. But first some notes.
Remember when you could walk in to a parts store (in this case my BMW dealer, but even auto parts places apply here) and tell the person you were doing 'blah repair on blah bike...' and they would say 'Oh, don't forget to get this, and two of these, and since you're in there look at this...' Usually some good advice and some mention of some pieces you probably overlooked. I'm only 39 and I remember good service, yeah there is a point to this rant.
Back to the repair, I followed the manual AND HEEDED THE ADVICE OF MANY ON THIS SITE. Wise people here.
I used an engine hoist to lift the bike frame when you need to, no biggie. Some block it, whatever works but that frame has to separate from the engine at the rear.
Getting the swing arm and final drive off was almost routine. I am not a wrench, but will try to learn all I can about repairs and give 'em a go. I will not get used to that crack when the swing arm pivots bust loose. Yikes.
Biggest time consumer was manipulating the particular wiring (from switches etc.) out of the harness and through the frame then remembering how it went back. I did not disconnect the O2 sensor, it had enough play.
Lower cross member, no prob.
The gearbox needed a slight tap with a mallet to drop after the frame was lifted, 7 bolts and free.
Now I could see the oily mess that was my bell housing. Clutch plate was not infected, checked thickness and it was well within tolerances. NOTE #1: If you have a high miler, get the disc and replace it. My dealer did not have one in stock, fortunately mine was still good, but I would have replaced it.
Manual says to replace the 6 clutch bolts and washers, I did. NOTE #2: Manual also says to replace the big nut on the end of the clutch spline shaft, I did as well. Manual does not say to replace the Oring on the spline shaft, but says to CUT the old one out. Yep, need to replace it. This is where the rant comes in, when mentioning to the dealer that I am undertaking this repair it would have been nice to know I needed the Oring, the big nut, etc. I know, some of you are saying I should have just pre-read the manual (I did) but not an hour before the repair. Things get forgotten. I also know that the parts guys (kids) aren't mechanics and most have never seen the inside of a bike. Just showing my age I guess.
I left the old seal in while I cleaned the bell housing, better than new. Seal came out with no difficulty. Tapped in new one which is visibly different (improved) than the old and reversed the procedure upon assembly. All in all, no surprises. Kinda intimitated at first, but slow and steady won out. Repair took about 9 hours of actual work, an additional 6 hours of goofing off, and 3 hours watching my beloved Oilers beat the Red Wings. Took the bike out for a little run, I don't know about a breaking in for that seal, will take it easy for a little bit. If I can't post pics, you can email me for some.