I did the rear main seal myself - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2006, 12:11 am Thread Starter
 
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I did the rear main seal myself

I replaced the rear main seal on my '99 K12RS on Sat. I will try to post some pics. But first some notes.
Remember when you could walk in to a parts store (in this case my BMW dealer, but even auto parts places apply here) and tell the person you were doing 'blah repair on blah bike...' and they would say 'Oh, don't forget to get this, and two of these, and since you're in there look at this...' Usually some good advice and some mention of some pieces you probably overlooked. I'm only 39 and I remember good service, yeah there is a point to this rant.
Back to the repair, I followed the manual AND HEEDED THE ADVICE OF MANY ON THIS SITE. Wise people here.
I used an engine hoist to lift the bike frame when you need to, no biggie. Some block it, whatever works but that frame has to separate from the engine at the rear.
Getting the swing arm and final drive off was almost routine. I am not a wrench, but will try to learn all I can about repairs and give 'em a go. I will not get used to that crack when the swing arm pivots bust loose. Yikes.
Biggest time consumer was manipulating the particular wiring (from switches etc.) out of the harness and through the frame then remembering how it went back. I did not disconnect the O2 sensor, it had enough play.
Lower cross member, no prob.
The gearbox needed a slight tap with a mallet to drop after the frame was lifted, 7 bolts and free.
Now I could see the oily mess that was my bell housing. Clutch plate was not infected, checked thickness and it was well within tolerances. NOTE #1: If you have a high miler, get the disc and replace it. My dealer did not have one in stock, fortunately mine was still good, but I would have replaced it.
Manual says to replace the 6 clutch bolts and washers, I did. NOTE #2: Manual also says to replace the big nut on the end of the clutch spline shaft, I did as well. Manual does not say to replace the Oring on the spline shaft, but says to CUT the old one out. Yep, need to replace it. This is where the rant comes in, when mentioning to the dealer that I am undertaking this repair it would have been nice to know I needed the Oring, the big nut, etc. I know, some of you are saying I should have just pre-read the manual (I did) but not an hour before the repair. Things get forgotten. I also know that the parts guys (kids) aren't mechanics and most have never seen the inside of a bike. Just showing my age I guess.
I left the old seal in while I cleaned the bell housing, better than new. Seal came out with no difficulty. Tapped in new one which is visibly different (improved) than the old and reversed the procedure upon assembly. All in all, no surprises. Kinda intimitated at first, but slow and steady won out. Repair took about 9 hours of actual work, an additional 6 hours of goofing off, and 3 hours watching my beloved Oilers beat the Red Wings. Took the bike out for a little run, I don't know about a breaking in for that seal, will take it easy for a little bit. If I can't post pics, you can email me for some.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2006, 4:53 am
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Hi Quicksilver, what mileage were you on? Did you have a close look at the splines and were they ok?

I see you use a lift table, how did it work for this job? Did you just use overhead support straps and lower the lift, or were the straps on a hoist, 'cos just guessing but I don't have plenty of height for both lift and roof hoist and I've been wondering if the bike is safer left on the ground with heavy parts pulled upwards.

Still I guess when you get parts off, the weight on the table goes down a lot.



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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2006, 5:06 am
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Thumbs up

Congratulations on doing this by yourself. I did the same thing last weekend but enlisted the help of a buddy of mine just in case I ran into any surprizes.
Fortunately for me, I went to the right BMW dealer here in SoCal and one of the techs there set me up with everything I needed to do this without going back and picking up something that I could have forgotten. I did end up replacing the clutch slave, even though it was fine and all the seals except the one for the gear changer at the same time.
I too ended up measuring the friction plate and decided to put it back in without renewing it. With 27,000 miles on it, I found that I still have 2/3's of it left to use up to the wear limit.

I'd like to thank all those people around hear that have posted about this repair. Without reading about their own experience, I don't know if I would have taken on this job. I'm glad I did and wouldn't think twice about doing it again if needed to in the future.

Jerry
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2006, 2:34 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
Hi Quicksilver, what mileage were you on? Did you have a close look at the splines and were they ok?

I see you use a lift table, how did it work for this job? Did you just use overhead support straps and lower the lift, or were the straps on a hoist, 'cos just guessing but I don't have plenty of height for both lift and roof hoist and I've been wondering if the bike is safer left on the ground with heavy parts pulled upwards.

Still I guess when you get parts off, the weight on the table goes down a lot.
Vox,
Mileage was about 51,000 miles. Splines really looked in great shape. Lift table is the bomb, and I used an engine hoist. Never felt that the bike was unstable with the straps on the grabrail and the front wheel in the clamp. Nice to work at waist level.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2006, 3:43 pm
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lift table

geez, i gotta get one of those.

Marty from Oz.
This is a bloody big Island
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old May 1st, 2006, 4:58 pm
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Clutch Seal

Hey Quiksilver where do you live in case I ever need some help . Looks like you have a nice shop. Thanks for posting your work. Tom
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old May 2nd, 2006, 12:00 am Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by GT5_33
Hey Quiksilver where do you live in case I ever need some help . Looks like you have a nice shop. Thanks for posting your work. Tom
Sorry Tom, but I live in Edson, Alberta, Canada approx. 5000 miles from you. Although split the airfare...... That garage belongs to a motorcycling buddy of mine, I just get to use it whenever. He used to be a heavy duty mech. so he has lots of different tools and devices. No offense to the BMW mechs. but after this repair I little quahms about getting into my CBR. This repair was time consuming.
BTW, the Oilers knocked out the Red Wings. Good times here.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old May 2nd, 2006, 8:50 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quiksilver
Sorry Tom, but I live in Edson, Alberta, Canada approx. 5000 miles from you. Although split the airfare...... That garage belongs to a motorcycling buddy of mine, I just get to use it whenever. He used to be a heavy duty mech. so he has lots of different tools and devices. No offense to the BMW mechs. but after this repair I little quahms about getting into my CBR. This repair was time consuming.
BTW, the Oilers knocked out the Red Wings. Good times here.
from detroit; rrrrrr!! congratulations oilers.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old May 2nd, 2006, 12:04 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quiksilver
BTW, the Oilers knocked out the Red Wings.
That shocked the hell out of me.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2008, 3:54 pm
 
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leaking oil

With all this discussion about oil leaking from various places on modern BMW bikes, it seems we would do well by using this brain trust to solve the problem once and for all. I'd like to stop my '99 RS from leaking, then ride, enjoy and maintain it until I get old and start leaking myself. After all leaks are for old beaters not new beemers. Right?
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