Cam chain noise. - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 2017, 5:01 pm Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Cam chain noise.

2005 K1200S is a rattlin.

Now it seems that the cam chain tensioner is a common solution. But the guides rails may be the culprit then there is a plastic cam chain guide that fits over the sprocket. Do not want to disassemble until parts are in hand.


Always a pain when located in a non BMW dealership town.

Bike has only 23000 km.

Any advice appreciated
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 2017, 5:22 pm
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Did you call the guys at Ridewest in Seattle?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2017, 10:44 am
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I had the same problem, I did not solve it) I sold the bike)
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2017, 1:20 pm
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Two easiest are to replace the cam chain tensioner with the updated version and install the cam chain jump guard. DIY process, not too hard.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BMW K1200 S Cam Chain Tensioner.pdf (1.48 MB, 367 views)
File Type: pdf BMW K1200 S Cam Chain Retainer.pdf (1.80 MB, 262 views)

2009 K1300 GT
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
2005 R1200 RT - gone
2008 Honda CBR1000 RR - gone


Last edited by TF1200RT; May 24th, 2017 at 1:32 pm.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2017, 12:10 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TF1200RT View Post
Two easiest are to replace the cam chain tensioner with the updated version and install the cam chain jump guard. DIY process, not too hard.
I have the same weird rattle on my bike.
The trick i am doing is i hold the bike in vertical position while pushing the starter button.
The oil runs to the left side,leaving almost nothing for thr pump.
These bikes are "dry sump" and they have very little oil in the bottom of the engine anyway.
Most of the oil sits in that plastic reservoir under the seat.
The oil pump does not have enough oil at cold start.
Really nice write-up!
Already saved the instruction documents on my notebook.
Time for me to start shopping for parts!
Thank you!

Avoiding speeding tickets for 30 years...
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2017, 8:10 pm
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Originally Posted by slatanik View Post
Time for me to start shopping for parts!
maxbmwmotorcycles.com for parts
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2009 K1300 GT
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
2005 R1200 RT - gone
2008 Honda CBR1000 RR - gone

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 3rd, 2017, 12:43 pm
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If the cam chain jump guard has not been installed, I believe it is a recall item that the dealer will install for you. It won't help @Uclueletmetal, who said he was far from a dealer, but for everyone else, check with your local dealer to confirm that it is a recall that they will do at no cost.

I installed a cam chain jump guard myself at my own expense, before there was an official recall. (Later, I noticed that one of the local dealers billed BMW for the recall work without asking me if I wanted it done, even though I had already done the work. Of course that probably prevented me from going to BMW to get my parts cost reimbursed; I didn't try. I won't go back to that dealer ever again for service. That was the final straw.)

If you do it yourself, keep in mind that there are a lot of one-time-use-only stretch bolts that must be replaced with new stretch bolts every time you remove and reattach the cover. At local BMW dealer prices, those bolts cost me over $50. I do not know whether the same bolts are available from non-BMW sources. If you search these forums, you will learn that people have reused the bolts, but I won't. I figure that BMW must have had a reason for doing it that way, and I don't want to learn why the hard way.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 2017, 12:01 am
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I've re used my Bolts 3 times already mucking around with the clutch...... No problem. Just do them up gently/evenly.
Although, I did buy the complete set of bolts and would have done it properly if it had caused a problem (oil leaking).

.....just my opinion.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 2017, 11:57 am
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The updated Cam Chain Tensioner or a Manual APE one (we have an unused one for sale) and the jump guard will solve all most unnerving all noise & greatly mitigate risk of jump.

Easy job - biggest PITA are the Alu bolts as stated earlier. Be deliberate with removal and careful on final torque as do not want to snap on or strip head of one.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Jun 9th, 2017, 11:56 am
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The torque on the cover bolts is 3 Nm (26 inch-pounds = 2.2 foot-pounds), plus after that, rotate the bolt an additional 90 degrees.

My torque wrench won't go that low, so I bought a Neiko 10573B Torque Screwdriver years ago. I don't use it often, but when I need it, I am glad I have it. There may be other, less expensive low-torque wrenches or screwdrivers today, but the Neiko worked for me at the time.

I like the idea of reusing the bolts, then seeing if there is a leak. Despite liking the idea, I will probably still use new stretch bolts in an abundance of caution.

I wonder where BMW gets them, and whether there is a less expensive place to obtain them?

REMINDER:
There are two different sizes of stretch bolt that are needed, by the way.
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