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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2006, 10:38 am Thread Starter
 
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Question Brake noise

Looking for advice or suggestions from the experts here.

The bike is a 2003 K12GT. I just had new tires mounted, and I removed and re-installed the wheels myself.

I don't know if it's just my imagination, but it seems like the sound of the brake pads rubbing on the rotors is more noticeable now. I noticed the sound at low, parking-lot speeds after I put the bike back together. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the front brakes.

When I turn the wheels by hand, they both turn freely with what seems like normal sound and feel to me. The rear wheel turns quieter and more freely than the front. I checked everything again, and I made sure everything was reassembled properly -- the spacer is on the ABS ring side, and the bearing cap is on the other side.

Anyone have any ideas what I could've missed?

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2006, 3:24 pm
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before you tightend up your axle did you bounce the front end a couple of times before the final torq....thats the only thing i can think of...let us know
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2006, 3:49 pm
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noise

It is possible when reinstalling the front wheel to make the mistake of locking the two allan keys up on the legs first. Then when you tighten up the axle nut, you pull the leg in onto one brake pad.

Of course you have inspected the pads?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2006, 6:08 pm
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come to think of it last season i would free wheel down hill to see if any noise was heard while doing around 20 mph...and i could hear the pads on the rotors.....nothing can be done for that as long as there is no drag.....and its not metel to metel....your probly ok....when you do your pads next time they will tell you of any problems...you can read them....good luck
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2006, 6:27 pm Thread Starter
 
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Bounced the front end

Quote:
Originally Posted by BAK04GT
before you tightend up your axle did you bounce the front end a couple of times before the final torq....thats the only thing i can think of...let us know
Yes, I did this.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2006, 6:33 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papilio
It is possible when reinstalling the front wheel to make the mistake of locking the two allan keys up on the legs first. Then when you tighten up the axle nut, you pull the leg in onto one brake pad.

Of course you have inspected the pads?
Yes, the pads are OK.

I followed the maintenance manual procedure step-by-step, and I think it said to torque the axle nut first, then the axle clamp screws. But if it says to torque them in the opposite order, that's what I would have done.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2006, 6:39 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAK04GT
and i could hear the pads on the rotors.....nothing can be done for that as long as there is no drag
I understand what you're saying, and I agree.

It just worries me a little that I can hear that dragging sound while riding the bike, and I don't recall hearing it before the tire swap.

I'm thinking maybe I installed the spacer on the ABS side backwards (?) It looked the same on both sides when I installed it. But if it is on backwards, it could have shifted the wheel a little to either side, which would explain more drag on the brakes.

I'm considering taking the wheel off again to double-check everything.

Thanks for the tips so far.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2006, 7:00 pm
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I can only suggest some things: First your pads are slightly misaligned off the way they wore in originally (did you take the pads out and mix them up?). Using the brakes will bring them true again.

If you removed pads and replaced them you may have one sticking on the sides of the caliper and not retracting evenly. Dust can easily clog things up.

Since you may have pushed the pads back to get the calipers off the discs, one of your caliper pistons may be sticking, and again it's not coming away clean off the rotor.

Something bad may have happened when the tires were changed and the rotor now has runout. If you don't have a dial guage, check a gap from the rotor surface near the top, to a pad with a feeler guage stays the same for a 360 turn of the wheel (you may have to push a pad back 1/2mm or so). I hope this hasn't happened. If you can shine a bright light behind the calipers and look through the small pad gaps at the front, whilst turning the wheel through 360, you can also see if the rotor surface is not runing true to the pads after grabbing the brake a couple of times.

And the last thing I forgot, check for a rotor wear ridge at the outer edges compared to the main surfaces. Usually the pads run just below the rotor edge, but if you fit new pads or mixed up the old ones, the pads can be making contact with this unworn part of the rotor edge. If there's a big ridge check the amount of wear. On cages I've usually carefully ground the ridge down with an angle grinder to say 10 degree angle - it stops a lot of squeels and noises.



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Last edited by voxmagna; May 11th, 2006 at 4:28 am.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2006, 10:02 pm
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Voxmagna; Very nice work.
I like your style.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 3rd, 2006, 10:01 pm Thread Starter
 
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Problem fixed

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
I
<snip>

Since you may have pushed the pads back to get the calipers off the discs, one of your caliper pistons may be sticking, and again it's not coming away clean off the rotor.

<snip>
I figured this was most likely the problem, so I did everything I could to make the pistons and the pads move freely; i.e., spray out the pads and calipers with brake cleaner, and remove and clean the pins.

Not much success, so I took it in to SJBMW today, and they were able to free up the caliper pistons, and the front wheel spins freely now. The tech said he thinks one piston was binding and not retracting fully. Even better, the work was covered under warranty.

Thanks for your help.
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