Removing Stock Exhaust - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 2005, 10:00 pm Thread Starter
 
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Removing Stock Exhaust

No. 2 pipe broke on my stock exhaust, '02 KRS.

I'm having trouble locating plug for oxygen sensor. It appears to be up under the seat somewhere. Does anybody know where it is?

Or can the hex nut on the oxygen sensor be loosened at the exhaust system without having to unplug the oxygen sensor?

Also, the parts fische does not show a bolt holding the heat shield to the engine casing but mine appears to have a bolt holding it to the casing on the botton right as you face the heat shield making it difficult to take the heat shield off to get the hex nut on the oxygen sensor.

I went ahead and took the no. 2 pipe off and I did not see the copper washer that is supposed to be there. Anyone else with an '02 notice that there is no copper washer? Or is the washer up in the engine and I need to find it?

By the way PB Blaster penetrant catalyst works great on the nuts.

Thanks for any information.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 2005, 9:30 am
 
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I recently put a stock exhaust back on my bike ('03 KRS). Took off a Remus Innovation.

My suggestions are:
Unscrew the Oxygen sensor with the wires connected. It worked for me.
Ignore the heat sheild. Get a wrench that fits and cut it or modify as needed to make it work.
Use a small dab of grease on the gaskets to hold them in place while positioning the pipes.
Twist the Oxygen sensor wires tightly so that they will unwind correctly when you re-install.
There must be copper crush gaskets in place. If one is missing on the broken pipe that explains the failure. Look again for it. Make certain you don't double up on the gasket when installing the repaired pipe. I had to dig the old gaskets out of the ports.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 2005, 10:04 am
 
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Exhaust Removal

Dave,

There isn't enough cabling to completely twist off the oxygen sensor. Follow the wire up the left side of the bike and you'll end up having to cut a cable tie to find the plug. It really is there, you'll just have to find it.

As for the exhaust pipe gasket; the gasket gets discolored during use and it's a bear to get out off the seat in the head. If you have a very narrow headed common screwdriver you can gently pull it down the exhaust port, in the cylinder head, and feel the edge of the gasket right before the screwdriver falls out of the port. Find that little gap and gently push the flat side of the screwdriver between the gasket and the aluminum cylinder head (dont' scar the exhaust port/cylinder head) and it should come right out. After removal of the remaining pipes, do the same thing for removal of those gaskets.

Are you going to replace the exhaust system with aftermarket or OEM?

Jay
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 2005, 6:06 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the tips. Especially about the copper rings. They must be up there, I just haven't located them yet.

Jay, I'm replacing with a stock exhaust I picked up this weekend. I don't mind the sound, like it quieter and don't want to put that much money in an aftermarket pipe. If I spent more money on the engine I'd look into the timing sprockets on the cams from Rhinewest. I understand these only works correctly with the stock exhaust.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 2005, 8:29 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_hansen
There isn't enough cabling to completely twist off the oxygen sensor.
I did the deed on my bike a few weeks ago. But better safe than sorry.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 19th, 2005, 7:42 pm
 
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wait, dont put the tuperware back on yet

After firing up with the new pipe let it warm up a little then retorque. Go ride for a few minutes and when it fully warms up enough to fully smoke off, shut it down long enough to touch without getting burned and torque one more time.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 2005, 3:50 pm Thread Starter
 
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Any suggestions on coating the threads of the oxygen sensor with Optimoly TA described in the service manual?

I'm not having any luck finding an anti-seize compound locally, Dallas-Fort Worth, up to 1,000 degrees C.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 2005, 8:45 pm
 
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Wipe the excess off before installation.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 2005, 8:57 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPSCOTT
I'm not having any luck finding an anti-seize compound locally, Dallas-Fort Worth, up to 1,000 degrees C.
Midway Auto Supply is in Dallas. Hope this helps.


Last edited by rickd; Oct 20th, 2005 at 9:13 pm.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 20th, 2005, 9:35 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Rick, that is exactly what I need.

Looks like a ride to Dallas tomorrow, after rush hour traffic.
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