Hex bolt removal help needed! - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 12th, 2006, 7:41 pm Thread Starter
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Angry Hex bolt removal help needed!

Stripped the inside hole where the hex wrench fits---don't ask me how.:banghead

Any ideas on getting it out?

It's one of the rear brake caliper attachment bolts on an RS.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 12th, 2006, 8:08 pm
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EZ Out?

It's not the speed that kills, it's the rate at which the speed diminishes...
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 12th, 2006, 11:56 pm
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IIRC thats a 8mm allen.

is it the front bolt that also secures the ABS sensor, or (hopefully) the rear bolt?

use a drift/punch with a flat end, striking it with a hammer against the top edge of the bolt to upset the metal and cause the internal hex to expand inward. Work carefully around the other edge with the drift and hammer.

done correctly, your 8mm allen socket will no longer fit inside the bolt, line it up properly, then knock it into the hole with your hammer.

use a 6-8" extension on your socket, one hand on the ext. and the other on the ratchet, apply controlled pressure against your ratchet, if it feels like it is going to strip again- STOP

heat can be your friend here if you have a heat gun or have access to a small ox/acytelene torch. Spray the bolt with WD40 or similar, and heat until it starts to smoke, spray/heat several cycles, then repeat the hammer and punch treatment.

with some luck and patience you will get it.....

Mike Kelly

Triple M Engineering

K12RS

Stanley, NC
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2006, 4:23 am
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DON'T use an oxy torch around the caliper - It's full of oil and rubber seals! I replaced my bolts with stainless a couple of years ago. Looking at the bolts it seems possible to get a Mole wrench around the head. The oem bolts are HT steel aluminised and this can corrode. I use copper grease on those bolts. There's not much opportunity to get WD40 in there as the hole is blind into the caliper body. You may have to consider drilling a strategically placed small hole, just to get the WD40 in there.

If all fails and as an absolute last resort, I've used a small home arc welder set at about 60-70 Amps with a thick rod, strike and hold an arc for about 3 seconds on the bolt head. That gets local heat quickly through the bolt. I've sometimes welded a bit of steel on the bolt head to grab hold of. BUT keep the arc away from surrounding aluminium.



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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2006, 8:11 am Thread Starter
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Good ideas!

Will use at least some of them in my initial attempt.

Heard elsewhere to hammer in an oversized torx. A 55 just fits in. Doubt if a 60 would go in but may give it a try before exploring other techniques.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2006, 8:55 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry
Heard elsewhere to hammer in an oversized torx.
An oversized allen might do the trick also. I recall reading somewhere about using this method for extracting a broken Speedbleeder or something.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2006, 8:55 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry
Good ideas!

Will use at least some of them in my initial attempt.

Heard elsewhere to hammer in an oversized torx. A 55 just fits in. Doubt if a 60 would go in but may give it a try before exploring other techniques.
If the bolt is seized, twisting alone won't shift it and you risk shearing the bolt. When I eventually got a seized caliper bolt out, the plating had corroded down the full length of the bolt - it wasn't just the threads. Then I'm afraid you have to start drilling. Not a pleasant job. Try getting some heat and lube in there first, 'cos your oversized torx may be the last chance you have of twisting out the bolt. Usually what happens without heat/lube is the aluminium oxide corrosion just jams up the threads even more as you keep twisting and you have a dead thread problem, just like there's a load of Loctite in there. Once loose, sometimes it's best to tighten then loosen the bolt in small amounts.



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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2006, 12:02 pm
 
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Vice grips on the bolt head if possible?

A little heat from a torch?

Sears has some tools for bolt extraction if neither of the above work...

Bolts can be a bitch sometimes, but you'll win in the end.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2006, 12:42 pm
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Take a punch and hammer and beat the living hell out of the head. In case the threads have (grown together) then try to turn it with any thing you can. Remember never force it, use a big enough hammer. This way if you never get it loose it will be obvious which parts to replace. It also gives you the added benefit of releasing those frustrations. Yes I am about 1/2 serious.

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2006, 5:07 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry
A 55 just fits in. Doubt if a 60 would go in but may give it a try before exploring other techniques.
Gave the wrong sizes. A 50 just fits. No way a 55 is going in there without splitting the head.
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