Rear brake pads.... - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 1:47 pm Thread Starter
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Rear brake pads....

Anyone care to inform me on the correct procedure to remove and install rear brake pads on an 04 RS? I managed to get it done but I really hacked my way through it. I'm interested in learning the proper way. This was my first attempt ever at this. Also, I was told (by a friend, so who knows) that it may not be a good idea to fool with the brakes as it has ABS...any truth to this? My brakes seem to be working just fine so far but I haven't really put any miles on it since....just a quick test ride around the neighborhood to make sure they stopped me. They did. Thanks.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 2:29 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drizzyboy
Anyone care to inform me on the correct procedure to remove and install rear brake pads on an 04 RS? I managed to get it done but I really hacked my way through it. I'm interested in learning the proper way. This was my first attempt ever at this.
There's not much to it, aside from tapping out the pins with a drift and making sure the spring goes on the right way upon reassembly.

If you didn't bend, break, or twist anything in the process, and if you didn't manage to get air in the line, then you probably did it right.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 3:06 pm
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pads are r+r....dont open any lines just push out pins and clip rock the caliper so as to push the piston in and replace with new pads....done deal
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 4:55 pm
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..rock the caliper so as to push the piston in..
What I did was pull the each pad partially out, then push inward on the top of the pad to force the piston back before pulling the pad all the way out. If the caliper is going to be rocked, then the allen head bolts holding it on to the final drive would have to be removed...

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2006, 5:26 pm
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Changing pads without removing the caliper is the way I do it every 2 sets. But after 2 sets I pull the caliper off to check for seal leaks, dust seal integrity, sticking pistons, corrosion and to clean out dust. However I'd expect a competent wrench at a dealer to do the latter every time if I was paying.



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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 2006, 5:46 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carnadero
What I did was pull the each pad partially out, then push inward on the top of the pad to force the piston back before pulling the pad all the way out. If the caliper is going to be rocked, then the allen head bolts holding it on to the final drive would have to be removed...
...ah yes true....but being of old age i am allowed to forget that part......mmm honey nother margarita pleeeeeas...
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 2006, 6:50 pm
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After installation of new rear pads, with the ignition on apply the rear brake lever a few times to set the rear pads close to the rotor.

When ridding for the first time use just the rear brake to seat the new pads to the rotor by dragging the rear brake for a short time. Don't over heat them!!

The rear pads are much softer than the front and will seat in very fast.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 2006, 10:07 am
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While on the subject of brakes, I performed the control circuit fluid flush this past weekend. Not difficult at all, just a little time-consuming due to having chosen to remove all the plastic to avoid brake fluid mishaps.

I can't wait to perform the wheel circuit flush so I can test out the stupid imitation of the factory funnel tool that I put together.

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