Valve adjust interval for k 1200 r - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 2006, 1:04 pm Thread Starter
 
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Valve adjust interval for k 1200 r

I am wondering about the valve adjust interval for my k 1200 r, is it every 6000 miles or 12000?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2006, 3:22 am
 
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should be 12k, but the computer gives an estimate when the dealer runs diagnostics.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2006, 4:39 am
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Originally Posted by sportrider
should be 12k, but the computer gives an estimate when the dealer runs diagnostics.
Why does everybody seem to get worked so up about valve clearances like it's putting in high octane gas? Has anybody ever had a serious engine failure because they didn't adjust the clearances for a few K miles over the interval?

The wet bucket shim design of our valve mechanism is done this way to get good service life, but dealers know they can justify time, then those shims and a seemingly tricky procedure that might require a wrench and special tool called a 'micrometer'.

Beware the computer printouts that tell you when you should do things. The computer isn't riding your bike, but its programmes are written by manufacturers who have an interest in you paying for service. If a manufacturer thinks its design of valve gear can only last 12K miles, its product has a poor cost of ownership compared to other brands I have owned.

When you check valve clearance you will always get differences from when they were last checked. The important thing is there are actual clearances and they are not excessive to the point of being noisy (which you soon hear).



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Last edited by voxmagna; Sep 22nd, 2006 at 4:49 am.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2006, 2:53 pm
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and if they were getting tight you would know just from running it...mass lost of performance ..back fire...and low compression....you can always do just a simple compression test to see where you stand....and if there is one or two that are not within the boundaries of the others then you should get worried.....i think the way its designed is that you wont get loose youll get tight....so thats good...easy to feel a tight valve...and as a disclaimer i ll state that "I COULD BE ALL WET"....but i think im right...i know for sure im not left
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2006, 3:01 pm
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...i am wrong ....thought it was a "K".......sorry guy.....but just maybe im still right.....NOT!... ..manure?.......thats bull shit!....god PC has gotten to the "smile list" too?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2006, 4:44 am
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Originally Posted by BAK04GT
...i am wrong ....thought it was a "K".......sorry guy.....but just maybe im still right.....NOT!... ..manure?.......thats bull shit!....god PC has gotten to the "smile list" too?
This is the way I've known it work in the past:

Overhead cams on K's so cam wear = larger bucket shim clearance = more rattle and noise. often you hear just the worst and it only needs to be one which might annoy - Take off your helmet and listen, rocker side.

Valve or seat wear = gap reduced - this is the difficult one. My experience in the past is that this is less likely than the camshaft wear. It's difficult because if left, the valve and or seat will burn particularly the exhauts valves - but most who know their bike as BAK04GT says, will feel there's a problem first.

On pushrod engines (NOT our K's) Cyl head gasket settling reduces clearances (more of a pain to get final setting so manufacturers may have more generous clearances)

Exhaust valve clearances (the hotter end!) are generally wider than inlet (the induction side). Because the exhaust valve clearance starts bigger, they are often the first to hear rattling on a cold engine. Manufacturers would like lots of clearance (It has little effect on performance), but they have to compromise between temperature/wear rate and acceptable noise.

The switch to 'hydraulic' bucket and shim design in autos was for quietness, reduced wear and to maintain pre-set clearances for longer.

If a manufacturer incorporates pre-set shims, you can assume they do it to get good service life, otherwise they might as well go back to adjustable rockers which you set up with a couple of wrenches in a 1/10th the time at about 1/10th the labor rate. How often are you checking your bearing pre-loads and shimming?

My personal conclusion at the end is that it costs very little to CHECK clearances, and write them down in your personal service log. But use some judgement on going further and by all means deal with the problem if there are no or significant differences in spec'd clearance - particularly on the exhaust valves. The value in doing this is you are actually monitoring your valve gear wear - e.g camshaft and seats, rather than treating re-shim as just another service op. How often do you get a full set of 'before and after' clearances from your dealer? I would pretty much guarantee that if two people measured valve clearances 100 miles apart, there'd be different results.

I much prefer riding to worrying about my bikes scheduled diary service needs when they pop up at inconvenient times according to the odo. and this is one item I definitely plan with other jobs when plastics are off.



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