Rheostat control for RS heated seat. - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2006, 5:25 pm Thread Starter
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Question Rheostat control for RS heated seat.

Any reason you can't use a rheostat switch/control for the heated seat when adding it to an RS?

Would like to hook it up to both heating elements at the same time.

Other option would be to put it in series with a DTDP switch to fine tune the high and low settings.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2006, 7:07 pm
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on my stock heated seat...i either have it on or off.......if its cold its on...if its warm its off......even with the stock switch i never use the med setting....just rapid start....i really dont see any need for fine control....its either cold out or its warm.....imoho.....now maybe in a vest that would be good...but seat...no...
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2006, 9:32 am
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I wouldn't mess with rheostats, the'll be big, clumsy and get hot, unless you go clever pulse width control.

If you really want some simple reliable control, you could try a switch arrangement that either runs the 2 seat heaters in parallel as normal, or switch them both in series (1/2 power to each)



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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2006, 2:22 pm Thread Starter
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Where is a good place to wire into for juice for the heated seat?
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2006, 2:58 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry
Where is a good place to wire into for juice for the heated seat?
Set up a seperate fuse panel. What ever you use, a Centech AP-1 or a Painless 7-circuit fuse block, it's the best way to go. You can add a relay powered from the headlight so it's de-energized when the motor cranks to start. I don't believe the parking light is wired to the load-sheading relay.

On the idea of using a thermostat. I know from experience that a on-off switch on a vest is worthless when compared to a thermostat. Good luck with it.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2006, 4:33 pm
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Thermostat on a vest makes sense, because you can get quick results. The heated seat takes a bit of time to change, due to the design constraints.

The heated seat on the GT is set up for either the 7 watt element to come on (low) or both the 7 watt and 14 watt (high). Generally, after 10 minutes of on high, I have it turned back down to low, unless it's below 40ºF and I'm on the freeway.

(At 30ºF, the seat is on high all the time and the Gerbing thermostat is at 100%. At 20ºF, I'm inside wondering what's wrong with those idiots).



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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 2006, 5:45 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
Set up a seperate fuse panel. What ever you use, a Centech AP-1 or a Painless 7-circuit fuse block, it's the best way to go. You can add a relay powered from the headlight so it's de-energized when the motor cranks to start. I don't believe the parking light is wired to the load-sheading relay.

On the idea of using a thermostat. I know from experience that a on-off switch on a vest is worthless when compared to a thermostat. Good luck with it.
You fellas are assuming I know something about electrical circuits on this bike. :o

Where physically do the wires hook up to on the existing wiring system?
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 2006, 6:06 am Thread Starter
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Summary of information from search....

Found several posts discussing power hook up.

Quote:
A common practice is to pull power off the tail light circuit, but that's not recommended as it will show as a fault on the Moditec diagnostic, and may affect the ABS sensor circuit.

Another practice is to pull power from the headlight or parking light wires, but that's on the opposite end of the bike from where you want to mount the unit.

Tapping into the power plug would be good, but has the same issue of connecting direct to the battery; if the unit fails to turn off, it will run down the battery as both these circuits are always connected. That said, either of these options are excellent choices.

The best option requires more work but solves many of the issues above. I would recommend installing a relay with its coil connected to the light circuit. The power side comes from the battery and to the comm unit. Better yet is to wire the power side to a fuse panel so you can add additional devices.
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I don't know what year your RS is but the early models had an auxiliary equipment connector buried under the back of the fuel tank. It was a 4 or 5 pin connector with one wire green with black trace supplied from an auxiliary equipment fuse. On later models I am not sure if that connection is still there, but a new one is taped up under the headlight assembly, again having one of the wires green with a black trace. Either of these is a fused and switched power source suitable for auxiliary equipment. The autocom draws enough current that it will kill your battery after some period of time if you hooked it directly to your battery.
Quote:
You can use a relay operated from the tail light circuit to power your Autocom. It won't pull enought to disturb the bulb monitor. I have 4 relays triggered from the rear harness for trailer wiring with no problems. I don't have the Autocom, but I run a lead from the Mixit for the wife to plug into. It runs along the rear fender and exits at the back where the rack is. I have about 12" of the lead exposed and zip-tied to the rack. When not in use the excess just tucks back under the seat and lays on the fender.
Quote:
If you find the green/black wire you will also find a brown one on the same connector. Solid brown is always ground on a BMW. Grounds to the frame are not always reliable. A relay off of the taillight as described above will work as well. Use that relay to switch power to the Blue Sea fuse panel you mentioned in another post.
And from the other site:

Quote:
I put a htd GT seat on my 2001 RS. I clipped the OEM connector from the heated seat and installed a flat 4 wire trailer connector. Powered thru a 12v relay with relay control circuit tagged on with the tail light power so I don't have worry about switching the seat when engine is off. I mounted a single pole double throw toggle switch (with a waterproof rubber cover) on the plastic plate where the unused 'knock out' is for a second accessory outlet is located.

Last edited by Larry; Oct 7th, 2006 at 6:15 am.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 2006, 7:51 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry
You fellas are assuming I know something about electrical circuits on this bike. :o

Where physically do the wires hook up to on the existing wiring system?
OK, lets start over.
1) You will not connect to the existing wiring to POWER the seat.
2) You can use the stock lighting circuit to CONTROL a relay that is installed in the circuit supplying power to the seat to insure that the seat is OFF when the ignition is turned off and when you are starting the bike.
3) You can hook directly to the battery to make this work simply. But you will have to make sure the seat is manually turned off every time you stop with this set-up, it can be later modified if the thermostat works like you want.

If you want to take a cheap way to try this, get the following:
1)Warm & Safe or Gerbing thermostat for a heated jacket liner with SAE 2-wire plug connectors.
2) SAE fused battery connector(bolts directly to the battery with eye terminals) from Battery Tender or other sources.
3) SAE 2-wire. 12" long trailer plug extension from Pep Boys to use for parts and hook into a jerry-rigged connection to the seat.

Keep us posted on how it works. Sounds like a great idea.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST

Last edited by brucecha; Oct 7th, 2006 at 9:30 am.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 2006, 4:24 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
Keep us posted on how it works. Sounds like a great idea.
Initial attempt will be with a thermostat between the seat and the accessory outlet. The thermostat is rated for 15 volts and 10 amps. There will be an inline 10 amp fuse between the thermostat and the outlet. The thermostat has an off position. I will test for current when it's turned off to make sure the battery wont get drained. Currently plan to hook just up the blue wire and not the black wire from the seat although I guess you could hook up both the blue and black to reach the 30 watts maximum. Just the blue should give a max of 20 watts.

The thermostat control will be mounted/taped near the accessory outlet.

Does anyone know if the accessory outlet shuts down when you crank the engine?

Results to follow.
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