how to remove rear swing arm? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 2006, 12:44 pm Thread Starter
 
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how to remove rear swing arm?

Anyone got any tips on how to remove the rear swing arm? That's apparently what I need to do to access the clutch slave cylinder so I can attach my new clutch cable, it's totally inaccessible otherwise. I was told by the dealer thats what they have to do. I don't know if the term 'rear' is redundant, is there a corresponding front swing arm as well? I will dig thru my manual, but I don't think mine is complete per se, I bought a pdf version from ebay, looks like someone scanned in a paper manual, didn't do all that good of a job. Cheers, Jack.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 2006, 2:00 pm Thread Starter
 
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found the thread

I did find this thread,

http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showth...ighlight=swing

and this one, looks scary to round off the nut!

http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1515

which is useful, someone somewhere also had mentioned making some special tool,would be interested in that info as well, cheers, Jack

Last edited by frisco99; Nov 9th, 2006 at 2:06 pm.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 2006, 2:22 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frisco99
Anyone got any tips on how to remove the rear swing arm? That's apparently what I need to do to access the clutch slave cylinder so I can attach my new clutch cable, it's totally inaccessible otherwise. I was told by the dealer thats what they have to do. I don't know if the term 'rear' is redundant, is there a corresponding front swing arm as well? I will dig thru my manual, but I don't think mine is complete per se, I bought a pdf version from ebay, looks like someone scanned in a paper manual, didn't do all that good of a job. Cheers, Jack.
Jack
According to my manual, removal of the swingarm is not necessary. It states to remove the front section of the rear carrier(piece of plastic that holds the aux. power plug) and get in there with an Allen wrench flex-socket. On an '04KRS I have no idea how you work around the ABS controller.
The banjo bolt torque is only 7Nm, so go easy on it! Use new sealing washers and bleed system normally.

But again, I would not pull the swing arm for this job.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 2006, 8:22 pm Thread Starter
 
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really

That would be nice to not have to take the back half of the bike off just to put on a new clutch cable, I can see the top of the banjo bolt with a flashlight, and I think if I did have some sort of flexible tool like I see in them fancy garages down there in the big city, I might have a shot at it. I think I could silicone on the washers and let that set up, then if I could get the new hose in position, with a magnetic tipped flexible tool with the right sized driver on it, and if I hold my tongue just right, I could drop that bolt in there and hit it with the old 7 Newton-meters, and I would have it. Yes I would like to see the page from the manual. Cheers, Jack
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 2006, 9:21 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frisco99
That would be nice to not have to take the back half of the bike off just to put on a new clutch cable, I can see the top of the banjo bolt with a flashlight, and I think if I did have some sort of flexible tool like I see in them fancy garages down there in the big city, I might have a shot at it. I think I could silicone on the washers and let that set up, then if I could get the new hose in position, with a magnetic tipped flexible tool with the right sized driver on it, and if I hold my tongue just right, I could drop that bolt in there and hit it with the old 7 Newton-meters, and I would have it. Yes I would like to see the page from the manual. Cheers, Jack
Sent you a PM.
You would have to put the silicone on the side of the crush washers, gluing them to the banjo fitting. Not to the flat mating surfaces. You really can't take a chance on the silicone causing a leak on such an inaccessable fitting.
Also on the '98-'01 bikes the banjo bolt torque is 6Nm, '02-'04 is 7Nm.

I think the big city tool would be a 1/4" drive metric Allen socket with a flex-adaptor. And a lot of luck!!

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST

Last edited by brucecha; Nov 9th, 2006 at 9:38 pm.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 10th, 2006, 12:02 am Thread Starter
 
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washers

Yes, I thought I would try to glue the washers on to each side of the banjo fitting, let them set up/dry, and then if I could get that in place somehow and maneuver the bolt in with a magnetic tip, the silicone would compress, I run the risk if it going inside and clogging up the hydraulic hose though so its not a very good plan so far, maybe a light coating of superglue might work better. Will wait for your copy of the page from the manual. Cheers, Jack
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 10th, 2006, 3:45 am
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You need 'plan B' in case you drop something inside - the bolt, the socket off the wrench, the adapter on the wrench ....etc . Whenever I try something like this, however careful, it always happens.

I strongly recommend getting the Clymer manual. If you decide to remove the rear swing arm, replace the slave cylinder, clutch seals and check the clutch disc wear whilst you are in there.



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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 10th, 2006, 10:04 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frisco99
Yes, I thought I would try to glue the washers on to each side of the banjo fitting, let them set up/dry, and then if I could get that in place somehow and maneuver the bolt in with a magnetic tip, the silicone would compress, I run the risk if it going inside and clogging up the hydraulic hose though so its not a very good plan so far, maybe a light coating of superglue might work better. Will wait for your copy of the page from the manual. Cheers, Jack
If the silicone got into the line, it would wind up in the slave cylinder and then you would be pulling the swingarm.
I think you could VERY carefully maneuver the new clutch line in there with the bottom copper crush washer just dangling or held in place with a piece of tie wire on the banjo bolt.
I would avoid any type of glue or silicone. If any fitting is going to leak because you contaminated the area, it will be that one!
What ever you do!! Don't hold the crush washers in place with grease or motor oil!!!

Sent you copies of the manual pages this morning!

ps. Pull the rear wheel to give you some more working room and put some clean paper under your working area, 'cause you know where the crush washers will wind up a few times during this repair.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST

Last edited by brucecha; Nov 10th, 2006 at 10:42 am.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 10th, 2006, 10:55 am Thread Starter
 
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washers

The only washers Chicago BMW sent me were the ones in the pic below, they are not copper, they look like the washers you would get at an Ace Hardware, they are silver in color, they gave me a set for the top and the bottom. They dont look compressible, but I will take another look and call Mark back and ask him if they are supposed to be copper crushable. Speaking of crush my Denver Broncos seem to be hanging in there.
Cheers, Jack
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Nov 10th, 2006, 1:00 pm Thread Starter
 
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crush washers

Chicago BMW assures me these aluminum looking washers are the right ones that the book calls for, I took a good look at them, they are quite soft metal and will probably work fine, I know I am used to seeing copper myself. Which reminds me, I need to go up to Copper Mountain and pick up my ski pass. I received the jpg images of the clutch procedure, thanks Bruce, Cheers, Jack
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