clutch switch - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2006, 3:36 pm Thread Starter
 
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clutch switch

I guess I'm getting ready to take the back half of the bike off to access the clutch cable where it connects to the slave cylinder back under the battery, and I notice in my manual for the '98-'01 bikes, on page 359, there is a reference to a 'clutch switch', anybody know what that is? On one hand the manual shows a small box, number 20, up inside the left handgrip, and on the other hand, two lines above, it refers to a number 25 clutch switch which needs a plug connector removed. Anybody know what the switch does, where is is, how it works, is the switch up in the handgrip and the electrical connector somewhere below? Does it convert hydraulic pressure from a sensor to an electrical signal of some kind to activate the clutch? Totally in the dark, thanks in advance, Cheers, Jack
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2006, 3:59 pm
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Jack
The only reference I can find to a "clutch switch" is in the electrical section(pg.#392 factory manual) and it refers to the safety switch inside the left handgrip multifunction switch which allows for starting the engine while in gear. It is hardwired from the switch to a plug connector under the fuel tank. Shouldn't bother what you are doing at all.

Gotta take off the swingarm to get at the clutch slave huh? Bummer!

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST

Last edited by brucecha; Nov 18th, 2006 at 4:04 pm.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2006, 4:03 pm Thread Starter
 
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part

I ordered a 6 inch flexible drill bit extension I was hoping to hook up to a drill to get the proper angle and power to get to the clutch bolt directly, they said, after 9 days the part was in, I got my buddy to drive me over to the next town this morning, they cant find the part, come back Monday. The weather is nice today, so I debate whether I should jump in or not, knowing I dont have some magic tool for some particular bolt anyway, but, I'll burn that bridge when I get there, I need to get me a little torch I read to apply heat to this bolt, I think I'll know it when I see it. Cheer, Jack
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2006, 4:08 pm
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Jack
Just talking off the top of my head, with no knowledge of doing it,but:
How hard would it be to pull the battery and loosen the ABS to remove the tray that holds them both in place? Would that provide enough room?
Do you need any pages on the R&R of the swingarm, if you go that way?

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2006, 4:44 pm Thread Starter
 
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thats it

I wonder myself, I have to take the exhaust off anyway cause I snapped a bolt off in the block and have to drill that out, that will give me some space to see up in there, maybe.
Cheers, Jack
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 2006, 4:44 pm
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Jack

Curiosity got the best of me. Went to the garage and using a 4mm.,3/8"drive socket(WallyWorld) on a wobble adaptor, along with a 12" extension slipped it right onto the clutch line banjo bolt. You can definitely crack it loose this way. Removing and re-installing might be a different story. A 1/4" set-up would be better. This is on a '04KRS with ABS.

ps. And when the socket assembly came apart when I withdrew it, the socket fell to the floor between the swingarm and crosstube. So, pieces,parts don't get lost up there.

pps. Did a little checking and a 4mm. metric Allan socket and a 5/32" Allan socket are within .004" of each other, with the metric being larger. So either size should work. Again this is for an '04KRS, but I am guessing both bikes use the same bolt.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST

Last edited by brucecha; Nov 18th, 2006 at 6:30 pm.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 2006, 11:46 am Thread Starter
 
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yup

Bruce,
I tried the 1/4 inch setup with the 4mm adapter middle of last week and the back of my adapter kept hitting the battery box, I don't have a 3/8 drive setup, but in regards to your 1/4 suggestion I couldnt get it to work for me due to clearance, but that is encouraging news, its 29 outside at 11 am here, but 42 in the garage, should warm up later and I will go get the 3/8ths kit from WM and try that, I am thinking the flexible drive adapter will work if they would just get it to me!!! I havent even been able to get on the banjo bolt, will try again, many thanks, Jack
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 2006, 12:14 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frisco99
Bruce,
I tried the 1/4 inch setup with the 4mm adapter middle of last week and the back of my adapter kept hitting the battery box, I don't have a 3/8 drive setup, but in regards to your 1/4 suggestion I couldnt get it to work for me due to clearance, but that is encouraging news, its 29 outside at 11 am here, but 42 in the garage, should warm up later and I will go get the 3/8ths kit from WM and try that, I am thinking the flexible drive adapter will work if they would just get it to me!!! I havent even been able to get on the banjo bolt, will try again, many thanks, Jack
Jack
When I slipped that 3/8" drive assembly in there, it went in very comfortably and I wouldn't hesitate to get a little strong on it to crack the bolt loose. But I also think that backing it out all the way using the flex assembly there will be a clearance problem with the battery box, as you have found out.

Just tried something that has more room: I got a 5/32" Allan head tool bit (one that would fit in a magnetic drill extension). It fits in a 1/4"-1/4"drive hex socket with a piece of plastic tape to keep it tight. This fitted to a 1/4" drive wobble adaptor and a 12" extension went in there real easy and had quite a bit more clearance with the battery tray. Should make it easier to get out after it's cracked loose.

Good luck!!

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 2006, 2:31 pm Thread Starter
 
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Bruce

I dont get your setup, sorry, I just got back from Wal Mart where I purchased a 3/8 torx 4, which i think is the same as a 4mm, put that on a right angle setup then to a wobble,and it hits the battery box, can you take a picture of whatever you have so I can emulate it, I think if I could get the bolt loose and out, I could glue the washers back on to the banjo bolt and wangle the thing back in, otherwise I have to find a way to block up the bike or hang it from the ceiling I guess to get the rear tire and the transmission off. Charging my camera as we speak to take a picture of the stuff I am trying to use. I have a 5/32 Allen head tool bit for what thats worth, but I cant get it in there. Quarter inch would be the way to go, Ill go back down to the garage and see if I can get that togther, or even back to Wal-Mart, its only 4 blocks away, a 5 min bus ride. Thanks for your help, Jack
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 2006, 3:27 pm
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Jack
Sorry I don't have a camera. Maybe you can post pictures of the tools and I can coach from the sidelines.
The 1/4" drive set-up I made is identical to the 3/8" drive, but the overall combined length of the socket and wobble assembly is a little shorter. That "should" allow you enough room to back out the banjo bolt all the way.
Like you, I don't understand what you are trying. A "torx" is different from an Allan. But again your bike might be different than mine.
Did you take off the rear tire and the plastic inner fender, so you have a better view?

I like to be a cheerleader for you to try it this way because pulling the swingarm is a nightmare of special tools. There are some horror stories in the archives from people who have done the job.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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