changing the fuel filter - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2005, 5:47 pm Thread Starter
 
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changing the fuel filter

I'm coming to a point in my bikes life where I have to pull it apart and change a lot of stuff. I have some basic directions.

1) Drain gas tank.
2) Remove Gas tank
3) Remove fuel-pump assemble, how difficult is it to remove the drain and breather hoses, any tricks?
4) change out fuel filter, double check to make sure the arrow is in the correct direction.

Assembly is the reverse of the above.

Alright, for those that have completed this task, what steps or items should I take extra care and what problems might I run into during this process.

Thanks,
Mark
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 2005, 12:26 am
 
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I pulled my tupperware and tank a few weeks ago when installing a set of PIAA's and autoswitch (pulling the tank wasn't absolutely necessary but made routing the wiring harness much cleaner IMO) Its a pretty easy job, though a bit time consuming getting all of the plastic removed from the bike (leave the center body panel on the tank but don't forget about the screw up near the steering head that needs to come out) Unlike on my previous GS the gas tank vent hoses do not have an intermediate connector on them so you will need to pull the one to ground up through the frame routing to ground (remembering how it was routed) and trace the vacuum side back to the cannister (I remember I ended up pulling the battery to make this easier to get to ... which also means disassembling the front seat retaining 'bar' from the frame to get the battery out...) No advice on getting into the tank, I haven't been there yet...
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 2005, 8:52 am
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Changing the fuel filter yourself

Hi Mark:

I love to do as much work on my bikes as I can, which includes most of the factory-recommended things. The last fuel filter I changed was the one on my RT. The set up is similar to the RS. After all was said and done, I made the decision to let the dealer perform this procedure in the future. For me, it wasn't worth the difficulty and time. Fuel filter changes and brake fluid purges are two things I am willing to pay a dealer for. It is certainly not beyond the ability of an amateur wrench to make the filter change, though. Take your time, and remember how you disassembled everything. If you decide not to use the fancy Oetiker hose clamps when you put things back together, make sure the clamps you choose are rust proof.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 4th, 2005, 11:42 pm
 
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The bottom of the tank has a large nut you must remove for access to the fuel pump and filter. Don't forget to repace the rubber gasket on the nut. The internal (to the tank) hose clamps are the Otiker single-use type. Be ready with replacement clamps for these.

Watch out for damage to the fuel line quick releases. Don't put a lot of sideways force on them or could cause failure in the future. Good idea to replace the quick-release 0-rings while stuff is apart.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2005, 8:17 pm
Lee
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George
Are regular hose clamps like the ones inside the K75 tank OK to use ?

Lee Fillian
Creston, Iowa
03 K1200RS
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 6th, 2005, 6:53 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee
George
Are regular hose clamps like the ones inside the K75 tank OK to use ?
I'm not George ;-)), but you want to use fuel injection hose clamps as opposed to regular hose clamps. The FI clamps have a solid band in contact with the hose and a bolt and nut in the tighteneing assembly. They're available from your dealer.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 6th, 2005, 7:01 am
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I used reg hose clamps for years in my KRS with no problems, if you have quick disconnects on the outer fuel lines the job is quick and painless if done during reg maint. It makes such a dramatic improvment in throttle response in the RS that myself and several friends got to the point we just replaced them every 6k miles.
If you are careful the tank doesnt have to be completely empty just mostly so then lay the tank on its side when working on it so whats in there doesnt spill.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2005, 1:46 pm
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Question Really?

Quote:
Originally Posted by karlb
I used reg hose clamps for years in my KRS with no problems, if you have quick disconnects on the outer fuel lines the job is quick and painless if done during reg maint. It makes such a dramatic improvment in throttle response in the RS that myself and several friends got to the point we just replaced them every 6k miles.
You replace the quick disconnects every 6 months????

'04 GT...Orient Blue...Staintune...Ohlins...Power Commander
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2005, 3:08 pm
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fuel filter

Uh, I think they replace fuel filter that often.

If it's got curves ride it.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2005, 10:37 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobmws
I'm not George ;-)), but you want to use fuel injection hose clamps as opposed to regular hose clamps. The FI clamps have a solid band in contact with the hose and a bolt and nut in the tighteneing assembly. They're available from your dealer.

I am George and Bob is right about the clamps. Solid band clamps will not bite into the hose like "regular" clamps. I think cost is about $2 each at dealer.
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