Removing rusted screw from aluminum base? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old May 30th, 2007, 8:43 am Thread Starter
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Removing rusted screw from aluminum base?

Removing rusted screw from aluminum base?

Easy way to do this?

Rusted steel crews are breaking off.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old May 30th, 2007, 11:40 am
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Where are they breaking off? If you are talking studs threaded both ends, they often use Loctite so you'd be wise to heat the area around to at least 150 deg C first. If you are putting so much torque on you are shearing the bolt I'd suggest you get a torque wrench and if you're going 20% over on torque down spec. STOP.

They use an aluminium plating on their bolts which seems to just aggravate the corrosion. I had a caliper 1/2 bolt do this and shear off. After that it gets tricky. Because the thread will be all bound up with white aluminium oxide, forcibly removing the bolt, just screws up the thread in the casing and you end up with a straight hole, no thread and a small heap of white powder.

I've got quite good at centre marking a bolt, carefully drill out a size below the tapping size, then break the steel bits into the hole. Run a tap down and the original thread may come good. If not, it's Helicoil.

Ask yourself if you really need to take out a frozen bolt before you start.



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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old May 30th, 2007, 12:50 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry
Removing rusted screw from aluminum base?

Easy way to do this?

Rusted steel crews are breaking off.

Larry
Do a Google search for "Kroil". Simply the best penetrating oil on the planet!

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old May 30th, 2007, 3:41 pm Thread Starter
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The screws are breaking off due to application of too much torque.

They are broken at the opening of the screw hole.

The steel is not coated with aluminum, at least as far as the non rusted ones appear.

Besides the rust, is there a reaction between steel and aluminum over time?

Heat does not appear to be a option due to near by and contiguous plastic/rubber parts.

Can I dissolve the rust?

Naval Jelly?

Can you dissolve aluminum oxide?

Will do a search for Kroil.

Thanks to both of you.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old May 31st, 2007, 5:02 am
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If you've sheared the screw you've got no option but to drill it out. You can buy EZ out left hand threaded screw extractors. But it's my personal opinion that if a screw was sufficiently siezed to shear it, you'll end up busting the hardened extracter in the stud and you'll have even bigger problems.

That's why BMW coat their steel screws with aluminium to slow down the reaction. I'm swapping most of my screws to stainless but not high torque bolts, there's still a reaction, but much slower. You can also use a small amount of Hondabond silicon gasket sealant on threads where water might penetrate, but don't use an acid curing silicon product.



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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old May 31st, 2007, 12:01 pm
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I've sheared my share and don't know of any product that will do it when they've seized up real good. Though, I did order some of that Kroil stuff off of Ebay, reckon I'd give it whirl.

Now, here's a question for the Universe: Why is it always the last damned bolt???!!!!

-=grif=-
What was that middle thang?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old May 31st, 2007, 1:04 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
I've sheared my share and don't know of any product that will do it when they've seized up real good. Though, I did order some of that Kroil stuff off of Ebay, reckon I'd give it whirl.

Now, here's a question for the Universe: Why is it always the last damned bolt???!!!!

Grif
While that Kroil stuff is very good. It does evaporate!!!

Keep the lid on tight!

Oh, your right it is always the last bolt.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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