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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 2015, 9:38 pm Thread Starter
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K1200R Idle-please move thread to maitenence

Hello,

I have found other threads pertaining to this known issue however my problem is similar; what I am experiencing is different than i found. In the threads that I have read(which is similar to my issue) the K1200R at some point in it's life shuts off whilst riding down the road. It is very difficult to start back up and the idle is not normal. Its very rough and has trouble starting.

When this issue first happened I was in Illinois on my way back to Texas when I pulled off at the fuel station and the bike shut off. It had a difficult time starting. It would not atay on at idle speed (1150 rpm). I managed to get going and made it to a motel before I had to haul it back in the back of a truck.

It would not accelerate normally and have trouble shifting through the gears. At the time, I was not able to do much of anything but wait.

Now I have read and discovered the potential culprit to be a myriad of things. I've tried resetting my throttle and that helps. It starts but won't stay on unless I give it some throttle. When I let it idle it shuts off. The display reads red warning indicator+battery symbol and also yellow warning light+engine symbol. The manual reads that for 1) battery charge insufficient and 2) engine electronics.

Now, originally I had thought it might be a fuel issue (which I read in previous threads) but ruled that out as I use only Shell 93 VPower but only twice this trip 91 and 92 octane(only fuel available At the time). Other than Shell, it was BP, Sunoco, Marathon or Speedway. But with those fuels there were no issues.

Now I have put octane booster in and hasee made a slight dideference but problem persists.

As of today, August 9th, the bike will start but shut off at idle. The matter of pertaining to the battery. I have charged and tested it however it (test device)recommends I change it. Because of this, it could simply be the battery but when I take it out the bike and test it, it has lost voltage. This leads me to think it could be the alternator. Either bad alternator not charging the battery or battery not taking charge from good alternator. When I took it for a quick spin around the block it had trouble shifting through gears, 1st to 2nd. Like the engine wanted to shut off, or there wasn't enough juice.

I called and asked the stealerahip, describing my problem was told "there's a start-up motor that keeps it running at idle." Maybe the dealer lingo is different than what I know bit I know of mo start up motor. However this is a fairly new hike to me, so I am learning and would not be surprised. Like when I learned it is return less system fuel.

In the other threads, I have read that it was not fuel issue, air box issue, not air filter issue, not valve and throttle body issue, but the air temperature sensor. It's plausible that it could be it.

All in all, with the display reading battery and that I have charged it, determined it need replacing and or the alternator plus the air temp sensor.

My question overall, has anybody had a particularly similar experience? With the battery and engine electronics. Thank you for the patience you took to read this thread...even if there is another few; but like I said I don't believe my answer was found to my specific situation.

"Hold yer line..."

Last edited by Thunderhead308; Aug 10th, 2015 at 9:09 pm.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2015, 10:47 pm Thread Starter
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It has occurred that battery warning light and engine electronics lights come on when I start the bike. I've since had the battery and alternator tested. The battery methinks is the culpeither as the manual says the engine will shut off if charge is insufficent. Now here is where I question. I've taken the battery to two different places to have it tested. One says it needs to be replaced, one says it's good. When I take the battery out of the bike to check the charge, it always needs juice. This leads me to believe it is or has something to do with the alternator.

Since it wont idle on its own, when I had it tested today it surprisingly stayed at idle, 1150 rpm for about 10 seconds before I jinxed it. The bike hasn't done that in a while, some 3000 miles ago. I've also noticed that in the parking lot as of today that it no longer seems to have trouble shifting gears whereas it did before.

This is sort of comforting but when I close off the throttle it still dies. Here is another shot on target to the battery and alternator. Before I went on the trip, I would notice in the night time when I rode that the headlamps would dim and loose their normal lumence. I never thought of it because I ride in the day time, seldom at night and of truly needing the headlamps.

As I have mentioned in post 1 that in Arkansas, I had an issue with bad gas. I still believe that fuel, what left is in there has a small issue. When the Arkansas instance happened, it was bad gas from a country bunkin gas stop, the kind you see no one frequents. It was 92 octane and I strongly believe it was watery fuel. The fuel that is in the bike now is actually 91 octane, the best fuel that Pilot had.

"Hold yer line..."
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 2015, 11:35 pm
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When it dies do the instrument cluster read outs stay active, ie holds the temp gauge, no reset of the self check, etc...or do they completely reset themselves like you just powered up the bike from a dead start? If full reset then I would lean towards a ZFE issue, if not then look at fuel supply.

Not sure this will help, I haven't heard of this probelm with K bikes but my wifes F800ST had a fuel pump that was overheating and drawing too much power and then would shut down, very dangerous, she stalled in a wide uphill bend curve and ended up dropping the bike in the road.

The problem only appeared if the tank was less than half full apparently because the fuel cooled the pump, as soon as it was the pump was exposed above fuel level in the tank the problem started to appear.....all hind sight symptoms after the problem was finally solved.

Sorry have to do a PR thing, Cycle Specialties in Modesto, CA would not give up on finding the problem and would not let BMW off the hook for covering the expense and assisting in the troubleshooting of the problem, they had the concern of protecting the saftey of my best friend rider, my wife of 30 years....
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2015, 3:15 am Thread Starter
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No, when it dies the gauges return as if the bike had not been tured on. Time remains the same, depending on which I have displayed, fuel range, air temp they turn off as it does when the bike is just on with the battery.

The warning lights are 1) red/battery, which always shows
After this problem. 2) inconsistent yellow/engine electronics light.

I pray is only the air temperature sensor. From the other thread I have read this place has, it was an air temp sensor. If that's bad then it tells the engine initially, "no, somethings wrong with the air coming in" or something like that and if it's faulty then the engine won't run properly. I've been told this by an old race mechanic who explained to me that in general, all electronics on cars, bikes, do the same basic function and that that is roughly what an air temp sensor does.

If that's bad, then the engine is getting incorrect information for perhaps the way the fuel should be mixed at idle and when it is going down the road, or at higher rpm it says it's fine. Who knows, I've asked and haven't really had any replies. Thank you for your comment.

I don't want to take it to the stealership, its y bike and I need to know what is wrong with it and how to fix it; not have someone do it and not tell me.

"Hold yer line..."
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 2015, 11:30 pm Thread Starter
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I have deduced that it is the alternator which is the root cause of my problems.

I was told to try an old school trick where you disconnect the positive battery cable. Since the engine electronics runs off the alternator and not the battery then if it shuts off the alternator is bad. If it stays on, then it's the battery.

My bike shut off after 10 seconds like this. In that time, I suspect it was drawing off the battery. It is plausible that the alternator is bad because if it spins at the same speed as the engine then when at low rpm and has bad bearings then it is not capable of working proplerly. At high rpm, it is fine which denotes the fact that when spinning with the engine at above idle rpm it provides enough electricity to run the bike without shutting off. When I close the throttle, it wants to die.

However the air temperature sensor is still faulty. I know it is because even when it is 100 degrees, it reads 78. The bike does not run in high heat like it used to so it must be replaced as well.

Thank you for the help.

"Hold yer line..."
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 2015, 3:43 pm
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You might try looking at the ignition coils. Mine had a failure similar to yours. Replaced the #2 and 3 coils and problem solved. No diagnostic alarm or indication other than periodic dying until it wouldn't run at all.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Oct 21st, 2015, 9:18 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderhead308
I have deduced that it is the alternator which is the root cause of my problems.

I was told to try an old school trick where you disconnect the positive battery cable. Since the engine electronics runs off the alternator and not the battery then if it shuts off the alternator is bad. If it stays on, then it's the battery.

My bike shut off after 10 seconds like this. In that time, I suspect it was drawing off the battery. It is plausible that the alternator is bad because if it spins at the same speed as the engine then when at low rpm and has bad bearings then it is not capable of working proplerly. At high rpm, it is fine which denotes the fact that when spinning with the engine at above idle rpm it provides enough electricity to run the bike without shutting off. When I close the throttle, it wants to die.

However the air temperature sensor is still faulty. I know it is because even when it is 100 degrees, it reads 78. The bike does not run in high heat like it used to so it must be replaced as well.

Thank you for the help.
Motorcycle batteries are not very durable. It's probably just the battery. Get a new battery.
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