K1200R Sport Electrical Consumption - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 2018, 3:59 pm Thread Starter
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Question K1200R Sport Electrical Consumption

Greetings fellow riders!~

I am interested in adding some lights and additional Farkles to my bike. But I was concerned about power draw. Now, based on information found here: BMW K1200R Sport It says that this bike has a 580W Three-Phase alternator. Then, with that information on hand, how much Watts do I have to play around with? I do not know how much power the bike consumes on it's own to power its own electronics. Searching online yielded results for the K1200LT model but that one has a beefier alternator. Does anyone have this information they would be willing to share?

TL;DR= K1200R Sport has 580W Alternator. How much power left/available after basic/essential power consumption? Conducted a search with no results.

Thank you Kindly!~

Last edited by RattleBattle; Jan 5th, 2018 at 4:02 pm. Reason: fixing unwanted emoticon
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 2018, 12:31 pm
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With a 580 watt alternator you have about 48 amps full load. We have a 14 amp/hour battery which will run 168 watts for one hour. The user manual says the standard socket is good for 5 amps or 60 watts. This is for 12 volts at 100% conversion which is, of course, not correct.

What does this all mean with regards to your question? 228 watts is required to keep the battery charged and the socket running at its rating so what about the other 352 watts capacity of the alternator? A lot has to do with the output of the alternator vs engine rpm but I'd say its good enough for adding some small loads over the socket load. Another 60 watt load should be safe.

You will see right away by voltage, and you know for sure that you can add 60 watts if you don't use the socket.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 2018, 1:28 pm Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ChetV View Post
With a 580 watt alternator you have about 48 amps full load. We have a 14 amp/hour battery which will run 168 watts for one hour. The user manual says the standard socket is good for 5 amps or 60 watts. This is for 12 volts at 100% conversion which is, of course, not correct.

What does this all mean with regards to your question? 228 watts is required to keep the battery charged and the socket running at its rating so what about the other 352 watts capacity of the alternator? A lot has to do with the output of the alternator vs engine rpm but I'd say its good enough for adding some small loads over the socket load. Another 60 watt load should be safe.

You will see right away by voltage, and you know for sure that you can add 60 watts if you don't use the socket.
Thank you for the Reply!~

Hmmmm..... I was looking at adding 81W Which is 6 to 7 amps directly to the battery with a manual switch and fuse.

Yielding: 14A Batt, 5A Socket, 7A Addon = 26A Total so far out of the 48A = This leaves me sitting at around 54% power draw. I don't know the error and heat loss margin here so... What's my safe limit? 85%? 75%?
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 2018, 3:23 pm
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If I built the bike I'd make sure the alternator would handle all the designed loads at idle. If you start the bike and add a load to the plug in and check the battery voltage it should read somewhere around 14 volts. (I just checked - 14.3V through the trickle charger plug at idle with nothing plugged in) If you add more electical loads at idle it will eventually drop showing the alternator can not keep up at that rpm. Higher RPM will solve that up to the capacity of the alternator but you are only cruising a 3000 rpm or so. I would feel safe until the voltage dropped at idle with additional load.....

Directly connecting to the battery is best the 5A plug will stop working with an overload according to the book. I'm sure it would be similar if you tried to tap any of the other existing circuits.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 2018, 7:18 pm Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ChetV View Post
If I built the bike I'd make sure the alternator would handle all the designed loads at idle. If you start the bike and add a load to the plug in and check the battery voltage it should read somewhere around 14 volts. (I just checked - 14.3V through the trickle charger plug at idle with nothing plugged in) If you add more electical loads at idle it will eventually drop showing the alternator can not keep up at that rpm. Higher RPM will solve that up to the capacity of the alternator but you are only cruising a 3000 rpm or so. I would feel safe until the voltage dropped at idle with additional load.....

Directly connecting to the battery is best the 5A plug will stop working with an overload according to the book. I'm sure it would be similar if you tried to tap any of the other existing circuits.
Got it! I'll so some experimenting then!~ Appreciate the support!
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