18K service. What oils and fluids you use? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2019, 12:21 pm Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: charleston, SC, USA
Posts: 6
18K service. What oils and fluids you use?

Trying to get all the things i need to save me from the $1,080 bill from the local bmw shop.

2008 K1200R
From my research found these. Comments??

oil change liquid moly 5w-40

(spark plugs) 4 New NGK IRIDIUM IX Spark Plug DCPR8EIX # 6546 ($30.00)

(final drive) 230ML - Redline 57104 75w-140ns GL-5 ( amazon $21.75)

(Transmission) 600ml- Redline 57904 75w-90 GL-5 (amazon $19.00)

BMW K1200R 2005-2008 & K1200R Sport 2007-2008
Technical Specifications:
Capacity: 1157 ccm
Cylinder: 4
HP/KW: 163/120
Weight (kg): 237 (K1200R), 240 (K1200R Sport)
Seat height (mm): 820
Valve clearance (in): cold 0,18-0,28 mm
Valve clearance (out): cold 0,30-0,40 mm
Idle speed: 1150 50 R/MIN
Injection: Injection 46 mm
Tire pressure (front): 2,5 bar
Tire pressure (rear): 2,9 bar
Spark plug 1: NGK KR9CI
Spark plug 2: -
Standpipe : Duolever fork
Drive: Kardan

Fork oil per rod:
Engine oil without filter: SAE 5W-40
Engine oil with filter: 3,5 L min. API SL
Transmission oil: 600 ML SAE 90 GL-5
Brake fluid: DOT 4
Final drive oil: 230 ml 75W-140 GL-5 (K1200R),
230 ml SAE 90 GL-5 (K1200R Sport)
Fuel: 19,0 litres
Coolant: 2,55 litres

Last edited by medicineman843; Jan 17th, 2019 at 8:03 am. Reason: edit
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2019, 9:45 pm
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Frederick, MD, United States
Posts: 33
I have heard that it is best to use non-synth oil. The thought is that the thinner synth will cause rear seal leaking prematurely and that is a $3,000.00 bill along with the ruined clutch.

Rick Mead
2004 K1200GT Guards Red
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2019, 10:29 pm
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Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 135
First off: Do you have a Riders Manual and a Repair Manual (CD)? If not, get them. They are not expensive and readily available so there are no excuses.

If I'm not mistaken, the exact name of the engine oil mentioned in the manual is no longer called that. BMW oil is Castrol. The present name is "Castrol Power 1", SAE 10W-40 full synthetic. Do not mess with oil additives. There are enough problems with the clutch on these bikes without immersing the plates in chemicals they were not designed to run in.

I run K&N Oil Filters. The only filter I know to be garbage are Fram. Nobody with performance or hard use engines of any kind use them. Their reputation has gone to shit.

If you only have 18 K on the clock, as indicated by your post, there is no need to mess with the Spark Plugs at all. They should be fine thru 30-40-50 K +. You don't want to get in there until you absolutely have to, To change plugs, you must remove the Radiator, the Secondary Breather system and the Coil Sticks which MUST be done with a specific puller. Do NOT try to pry them out with a screwdriver. You will just brake them and they are at least $125 a piece.

I just run BMWs Differential Oil because the cost is negligible as one bottle will do a few changes. I do change the Final Drive oil every year. Think of how often you have to lube the Chain on such driven bikes. All that stress is still going to the rear wheel with the only difference being that it's out of the weather. All the horror stories about rear-ends is because people don't change the oil. In 8 years on my final drive, I have had no problems.

Also don't take your Antifreeze for granted. Change it every couple of years and there are now quite a few kinds ever since the Japanese started alloying their engine blocks with some specialized metals. I avoid he confusion by just running BMW Antifreeze. The cost is negligible. There is a burping procedure that's in the manual. Do this or burn up your engine.

Essential to the longevity of your ABS system is the Brake Fluid. This system must be flushed at least every few Years. I'd bet a paycheck your's is way over due. I'm not sure if you have the bare bones ABS or the Servo Assist. If you have the bare bones it's not a big deal. You just keep bleeding and filling with a NEW can of DOT 4 until you see clear clean fluid come thru. Clean all the reservoirs well before you open them. Do not get your dirty fingers in the reservoirs or the fluid while working. The very slightest amount of oil, grease, dirt, or water will contaminate the shit out of your brake system.

If you are a Servo Assist sufferer, it would be the one service item I would take the bike to the dealer for. Bleeding all the ports in the Control Module is a major pain in the ass and if that's all you are having done, the bill should be pretty manageable.
motogp and deltabratwurst like this.

Last edited by SpaceViking; Jan 23rd, 2019 at 10:34 pm.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2019, 11:07 pm
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Location: Seattle, WA, USA
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Crazy D,
He says he's on an '08 K 1200 R. That's not a Brick motor. He has no rear seal. It seems like the Rear Seal issue on Brick K-bikes is notorious and inevitable. If I had a Brick bike, I'd figure out a way to run double seals back there. That is the only complaint I hear about them. It's a damn shame they quit making them.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 2019, 4:42 pm
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Location: Madison, WI, USA
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On the subject of the repair manual CD-ROM: where does one obtain the one you are referring to? I have not found them easy to find except for the Haynes and Clymer books which are of poor quality, largely because they cover too many models and years and lack detail. I would like a book specifically for a 1995 K75RT, preferably on a CD-ROM. Is there such a thing?

"Only he is lost who thinks he is lost." -- Hans Ulrich Rudel
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 1st, 2019, 4:16 am
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Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 135

Manuals for older K-Brick models are going to be a little more difficult to find. You can check with a franchise shop, you just never know what's available until you try. I'd look on Motobrick.com which is a site dedicated to "Brick" Beemers and I think I saw Owners Manuals on Capital Cycles. I also saw that Beemer Boneyard who only worked with older R-Bikes in the past is starting to carry K-Bike parts.

When shopping on eBay, remember it's not a one shot deal; you have to look often and with varying tactics. I have a standing search set up for the BMW stuff I need that leaves a daily report in my email. You can fine tune a search in "Advanced Search" until you are getting info on exactly what you are looking for and nothing else.

Don't discount Clymer's and other aftermarket manuals out of hand. They often do have info not in a factor publication and they are written for owners who don't have all the spendy complicated tools that franchise shops have. With the factory being as secretive as they are about their electrical stuff, you often see an after market book more informative about that aspect. I'm still waiting to see a decent wiring diagram for the K-40.

Just about every major city in the US has an independent BMW shop which serves the older bike market. Find who is filling that nitche in your area and they may not stock anything themselves but they are the people who know where to look for anything "Old Beemer".

In the past, you would have seen better aftermarket manuals and published sooner after the close of a model then you do nowadays because so fewer riders are working on their own bikes. We are finally in a motorcycle downturn because we have a whole generation of kids that don't do a God damned thing but play video games all day. REI and other outdoor oriented outfits are all doing badly.

Last edited by SpaceViking; Feb 1st, 2019 at 4:23 am.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 2019, 9:19 am
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Location: Madison, WI, USA
Posts: 5
Thankew much for the good info. I know what you mean about bikers not doing their own work. I was at a club meeting in Monona Wisconsin once and began telling a fellow enthusiastically about how I had obtained special tools for setting K-bike valves from a machine shop in Poland for $25. (BMW wants $150) The guy gave me a disdainful look and announced that he didn't even change his own oil. Strangely, he seemed to be proud of the fact.
I was the lead mechanic in a Honda shop in Salt Lake City in the mid-60s, so I have a different outlook on the subject.
I have posted some videos on YouTube of work I've done on my K75RT, if you are interested:

Regards, Tomnel

"Only he is lost who thinks he is lost." -- Hans Ulrich Rudel
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 2019, 12:33 pm
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Yeah, it was I think right around 2000; I was at an ABATE swap meet in OR and I first heard a rider ask me a question about by '45 Knucklehead EL and then say "I'll have my mechanic look into it." I was dumb struck. You could have knocked me over with a feather. And I said to myself "We have finally arrived at the middle class takeover of motorcycling". I'm pretty sure I was right; Motorcycling hasn't been the same since.

As for the guy who doesn't do his own oil changes; Pilots have to know the mechanics of airplanes and have engineering degrees. If they didn't, preflight walk arounds would be pointless. Any biker worth his or her mud know everything about their scooter. Boat captains do regular walk thrus and they all got started as deck hands when they were kids and I don't know a trucker who doesn't know everything about that big Cummins under the hood.

The only people who can get away with not working on there own vehicles are soccer moms in SUVs. Everybody else has to know their shit and failing to do so could be fatal. That's why I'm always on these guys that ask for help here, to go get repair and owners manuals. If they solely rely on answers to questions asked here, something big could be missed or misunderstood and it could be catastrophic .
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 2019, 7:57 am
Join Date: Feb 2017
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The correct engine oil is Castrol Power 1 racing 5W-40
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