I have just discovered the wonderful read on this issue elsewhere on the forum and have taken my post to that thread. If a moderator can delete this post I would be grateful as it is duplicated elsewhere and I don’t want to start another one on the same subject.

I have put only a couple of hundred k’s on my 2016 K13R that I bought with only 5000kms on it and frankly the clutch is a big disappointment compared to the clutch/transmission on my old K12RS with 182,000kms. It’s still faultless and totally silent with every shift, including into first. Yes, I know it’s a dry clutch but still.... With the K13R there is the standard bang into first and a small but noticeable shudder when disengaging the clutch. Does the Barnett clutch pack fix this issue and should it be attended to sooner rather than later. Does early intervention reduce the spend or is a complete clutch required regardless. Is this the best option available or should I consider other options? Otherwise the bike is amazing to ride and I’m enjoying riding a bike that’s 50kg lighter. The quick shifter has a huge grin factor too. All advice appreciated thanks.

There are more mods to the clutch than just changing plates. Use a 5w40 oil. Don't start the bike in neutral. Start in first gear. Sit at stops in gear. I only go to neutral once or twice a year. The throw out bearing in this clutch is large and strong, no worries there. Start your search on K1200 and K1300 clutches, plenty to read out there. Take a look at the European club also:
https://eurokclub.bike/index.php?PHP...g55aio9ujjuf3&

Thanks Beech, I came to the conclusion today that to start it in gear was the way to go. If I start it cold, I’ll let it idle in neutral and then hit the kill switch, engage 1st and restart. Easy, and avoids waiting for the pre start diagnostics to complete their functions again. Thanks for the tip on the throw out bearing too, as sitting awhile with the clutch pulled was never a good idea with our old K12RS’s. Engine currently has 5w-40 synthetic so all good there.

Good deal. Myself, even if it is cold, I have it in first, pull in the clutch give the bike a little roll to break the clutch plates apart and start up. I warm up for about 10 or 15 seconds and take offs. I don't play hard with the bike until the temperature bars start going up to normal. Takes a couple of minutes on side streets. Make sure your bike has the "jump guard" installed. Pictures are the view through that 50mm plug on the right side. the one where there is a dark cresent to the right is the jump guard, the one where you can see all the bearing has no jump guard. (jump guard keeps the cam drive chain in place during moments when there is excess slack, like starting up and the hydraulic tensioner is not quite doing its job. There is an Oring kit for the tensioner that needs installing every three years or so to keep it up to good condition)

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Cheers Beech for the startup tips. I’m under the impression the last of the 1300 production run all had the jump guard fitted at the factory. Can you confirm this is the case? If not I’ll certainly check it out.

If you do find yourself in neutral, hold the lever in for 4-5 seconds before selecting first.