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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Mar 29th, 2011 11:15 pm
robday Huh.
That means I need to open 'er up again and adjust the other switch. Dang it. That one seems more important than the cruise control switch, and it will bug me until I fix it.
Thanks Ken.
Mar 29th, 2011 3:13 pm
Meese One microswitch is for the cruise control shutoff, and one is for the starter interlock (bike won't start if it's in gear with the clutch out).

Why they need two switches for this I don't know, but there it is.
Mar 29th, 2011 2:58 pm
robday
Road tested, and a question about the microswitch

Ok, I just made a 1-hour ride up the coast. Everything works great. I was impressed with the difference in ergonomics, more so than I expected. The shorter throw of the levers is very satisfying for me.
I got home and fine-tuned the clutch piston actuator by a quarter turn because it seemed like the clutch was grabbing a little close to the grip. I set it up so it's close to stock, meaning it grabs/releases near the outer end of the lever travel and does not need to be pulled all the way in to use it.
The Synto levers feel really good, and having the clutch a bit closer to the grip feels a lot better on my hand.

So, here's a question for any of you with experience with the innards of the left side switchgear:
There are two parallel microswitches inside the clutch master cylinder housing, and both are wired. The top one does not appear to do anything, and the lever never actuates it. The bottom one is the clutch position switch, and tells the bike when the clutch is pulled (and releases the cruise control if the switch is actuated).
What is the top switch for? It can't be setup/adjusted without effecting the lower switch as well (unless you bend the actuator arm). It didn't appear to be doing anything with the stock lever, and it doesn't appear to be doing anything now. Does anyone have any idea what the purpose of this switch is?
Mar 25th, 2011 10:15 pm
robday
Installation

I found that there was enough slack in the grip heating wires to slide each grip out 1-2 inches, enough to get a screwdriver in and remove 2 screws. These pics are of the clutch side. On the throttle side, you will also need to remove both throttle cables once the cover is off.
The piston actuator removal (the red loctited screw and rod) can be done without heat, but you need to be very careful. I scraped away as much of the loctite as possible with a dental pick, then held the lever assembly in a vice and used a screwdriver and visegrip to slowly remove the screw. It was a little tricky.

The microswitch on the clutch side was also a little tricky. After replacing the lever, it appeared that the switch was never actuating. I spent about an hour and a half studying the whole thing and trying to make adjustments. It appears that pulling in the clutch releases the switch rather than actuating it, and I still have not road tested it. But it does release just after pulling in the lever now, and I will try to cruise control as one of the tests. It worked last week, so if it still works I'll know I set up the switch correctly.

ETA: There are two screws holding the grips, one on top and the other on the bottom (first pic shows the one on top)
Mar 25th, 2011 10:00 pm
robday
2008 GT and Synto levers

Hi all-
I installed a set of Synto levers (short) on my 2008 GT today. With info from here and other forums, it went well.
Here are some pics of each with min/max adjustment:
Sep 29th, 2009 11:33 am
Fergie
Quote:
Originally Posted by dpancerz
Dang! Now I'm torn between the two. I may just have to get one Synto and the other Vario.
David
Same here, I like the looks of the Synto but like the adjustability of the Vario. Dunno. Just haven't made my mind up yet. Geese, decisions, decisions.
Sep 29th, 2009 11:07 am
dpancerz Dang! Now I'm torn between the two. I may just have to get one Synto and the other Vario.

Just kidding! Can you imagine how strange that would look?

Really appreciate the follow-ups from The Oracle (Grif) and Peter. While we learned you don't have to take apart half the bike for the new lever install, there are a couple of gotchas that one needs to be aware of. If anything, this gives me a reason to score a heat gun as I don't currently own one. Been doing the Bic lighter trick on my shrink tubing all these years. Any excuse to buy more tools I'm on board with.

Nice pics there Peter. And I thought you got the gold levers with blue & red adjusters.

Regards!

David
Sep 29th, 2009 8:38 am
Fergie These are the ones we're talking bout.
http://pirateslair.net/Synto.htm
Sep 29th, 2009 7:42 am
grifscoots Boys, we obviously aren't talking about the same brake levers. I use the Vario in black and two finger it. http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mm5..._Code=R1200S-O
Sep 29th, 2009 6:18 am
grifscoots
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMack
That's all it takes for a Harley.

So no problem with the red-loctited grub screws above? No need to pull grips, wiring connectors, fairing panels either? What spring?


Mack
Underneath the handle assemble is a C clip. Pop that out and pull the pin straight out. Then work the handle out. There is a spring in there you need to reuse.

That's all there is to it folks. Like Pirate says, "Chimp easy".
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