| Topic Review (Newest First) |
| Dec 31st, 2009 5:20 pm | |
| 2wheeler | I think the rattle is the cam chain tensioner, no? Mine always rattles upon cold start up, whether it's June or February. It doesn't seem to last more than 3 seconds. I don't worry about it and start mine whenever I can ride in the winter. Otherwise it is on the battery tender with stabil in the tank. Just don't rev the crap out of it for a couple of minutes and you should be fine. |
| Dec 29th, 2009 11:49 am | |
| aj7840 |
Mine get shut off at the start of winter and started in the spring. Sometime about mid November all the bikes get an oil change, cables, linkages (and chains) lubed, Stabil in the tanks, run till they are warm at least 7-8 minutes, insures gas with stabil is in all the fuel passageways. Everyone is shut off, allowed to cool down, trickle chargers connected, on stands so the tires are of the ground, and covered. About late March or early April they come out of hibernation. 1984 Yamaha FJ1100 bought new, sold to son, he sold to his buddy. Bike has 108,000 miles does not use oil, has not been rebuilt (tranny has) still within spec. for compression. Bike has only had five (5) batteries and is only storied for the winter. 1995 BMW R1100RSA bought new, 78,000 miles traded on 07 GT did not burn oil, was on battery number 2 (needed to be replaced) when traded in on 07GT (damn test rides). Trickle chargers are the type which can be left connected to the battery but unplugged and will not draw on the batteries. They turn off when the battery is charged. All are connected to a seven day timer which comes on Monday and Friday for 6 hours. The Batteries are Panasonics as used in Computer battery backups, they last 5 years or longer. (The Ducati's battery is a 2000, bad ECU killed the OEM), the Yamaha's battery is a 2004, OEM pucked summer 04) The bikes are always plugged into the trickle chargers after a ride, but normally are ridden everyweek, except when the BMW has taken me somewhere for a week or two or more. |
| Dec 29th, 2009 8:28 am | |
| shook sez |
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce2000ltc
It's so easy a caveman can do it.
|
| Dec 28th, 2009 10:48 pm | |
| larrykay |
Quote:
Originally Posted by GillyWI
If that's all you're doing is driving around for the sake of getting oil circulating, I would say this:
It's probably worse to have these several episodes of "disturbing" the bike in pursuit of keeping the oil circulating during the winter, rather than just letting it "sleep" all winter and start it ONCE after several months (only ONE rattley episode vs several smaller ones). Gilly |
| Dec 28th, 2009 10:12 pm | |
| GillyWI |
If that's all you're doing is driving around for the sake of getting oil circulating, I would say this: It's probably worse to have these several episodes of "disturbing" the bike in pursuit of keeping the oil circulating during the winter, rather than just letting it "sleep" all winter and start it ONCE after several months (only ONE rattley episode vs several smaller ones). Gilly |
| Dec 28th, 2009 10:00 pm | |
| Dadicool59 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by lhendrick
Place key in ignition
Turn key to on Engage starter Put bike in gear and drive off slowly Keep going until engine warmed up 
|
| Dec 28th, 2009 8:21 pm | |
| Brahma |
Put it in 6th gear with the ignition off and have a friend push you down the road for about a mile. That should get everything pumping.
|
| Dec 28th, 2009 5:05 pm | |
| bruce2000ltc | It's so easy a caveman can do it. |
| Dec 28th, 2009 12:14 pm | |
| JCW |
In a car, I used to pull the fuel pump relay and crank the engine with the starter for a good 10 secs. Unfortunately not possible on the K12/13 bikes with canbus. I guess you could pull the fuel pump electrical connector. But personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe put in a 0W oil in the winter months to speed up the oil flow if you don't plan on riding it but just starting it up. I've done that. |
| Dec 28th, 2009 11:46 am | |
| chuckwilmot | If someone comes up with a practical way to do that on a modern bike without a manual kick start lever, I'd like to hear it. But for what it's worth from a non-technical, non-engineering, non-mechanic point of view, I think if you start the bike normally and then treat it carefully for the first few minutes (no high RPMs, no heavy loads, no shenanigans, etc), I think it's the best you can do and the engine should have been built to handle that. |
| This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread. | |
| Posting Rules | |