|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Oct 12th, 2019 10:59 am|
update - the bike is fixed!
MaxBMW mechanics figured out the ABS computer was allowing electricity to flow through it while the key was out of the bike. They sent the abs module to module masters to get the computer rebuilt. Module masters is giving me a 5 year warranty on the rebuild. My bike is back to normal! thanks everyone for your help!
|Aug 15th, 2019 8:22 am|
Originally Posted by carnadero View Post
|Jul 31st, 2019 1:12 am|
Update: I just remembered that earlier this year I experienced a similar problem. Something happened to my starter motor so I yanked it out and replaced it. After everything was all buttoned up, I took the bike for a ride and all seemed well until I returned home, parked it, and switched off the ignition. The engine stopped but the headlight and dash lights stayed on! After about a minute, they finally went out. I turned the ignition to on, started it up and let it run for about fifteen seconds, then switched it off and it happened again, but the lights-on interval was brief; five seconds or so. When I did the on-off exercise a third time, the lights stayed on again but longer, so I sat down close to the right side and put my ear near the side panel opening where the fan sits. After about a minute and a half the lights went out, and as they did I heard a distinct click. As it turns out it was the load relief relay. Unfortunately, I don't remember if the headlight on my bike stayed on or not when I started it up during that little episode.
To date, the bike is back to it's old self, more or less.
|Jul 30th, 2019 9:19 am|
|jumar360||I give up. I've cut up the wiring loom to look inside and all I've seen is perfectly intact wires that look brand new. I'm sending the bike to the dealer later this week. I'll let you know what they find.|
|Jun 22nd, 2019 3:09 pm|
Good questions! The headlight does go off when i press the starter button, so its not the load relief relay.
I have 2 cables that connect to the negative side of the battery and a battery tender pigtail. They are linked with one bolt (that goes through the battery) so I refer to all three as one.
|Jun 22nd, 2019 11:51 am|
|Jun 22nd, 2019 11:15 am|
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
That's what I tought the cooked wiring.Similar issues have happened to the GSs and their wiring is similar. I just read the LTs link, there is enough there to help further investigations.
Lights on with key off. Does the headlight go off when you hit the start button with the key in the On position?
And I'd have to ask......are both ground wires connected to the battery? K1200RSs have TWO grounds. One is main frame ground cable. The other is a bunch of brown ground wires 6-7-8(?) of them depending on year and equipment but pretty well all the grounded electricals are brought back to the battery via them wires.Not connecting either one the electricals should still work for a while but eventually something will overheat and bring about the dreaded electrical gremlins.
|Jun 22nd, 2019 5:04 am|
Also saw you posted a request into the K1200LT forum to John Zeiler (jzeiler) into a similar problem thread:
John Zeiler is a very good and helpful guy - in addition he is very familiar with the K1200LT complex electrical system. When you remove all the gadgets (heated seats , electrical windshield , reverser, radios) the base of the electrical system of the K1200RS is very similar to the K1200LT.
Given previous troubleshooting done by him on similar problem above, my best guess at this point is you also have damaged (burned inside) main wiring coming out of the Positive battery post (toward main relay junction box). Could also be a badly modified main harness, but I am assuming your bike ran well the days / week before AND no recent electrical mods were done.
As you saw in post above, John had to go to see the problematic K1200LT himself to pinpoint / confirm exact cause. Troubleshooting these type of problems at a distance is very difficult....
|Jun 21st, 2019 11:30 pm|
Your "fix" for Jumar360's problem describes what happens when the starter relay contacts weld.... namely, the starter continually runs and the only way to stop it is to disconnect the battery.
But his starter relay contacts are clearly not welded because when he inserts the key and switches the ignition ON, the starter behaves normally.
|Jun 21st, 2019 8:17 pm|
That's good information Sailor, thank you. I removed the starter relay completely off the bike and the bike stills powers up when i connect the negative cable to the battery. If the problem was a fused together starter relay letting electricity flow then wouldn't the bike be completely off when i remove the relay? Maybe I'll just try a few new relays just for fun.
Thank you for pointing me to the LT forum. I've found many people with similar problems.
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