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Discussion Starter #1
Apologies if I'm duplicating stuff that's in a FAQ somewhere (I looked for one, honest!).

I'm coming off a C10 Concours that hydraulic-ed its motor (ouch!) and put about 40K on the bike up to that point.

I have an '03 K1200RS in my sights; there are a few points I'd like so owners' reactions on. How's this bike for two up? My wife isn't big on riding, But I do want her to come along on rides.

I test rode another K1200RS today and, in ambient air temps of about 90F, my shins were somewhat toasted through my boots. Is there some kind of cure / farkle for this?

How hard is it to get the skins off to do simple maintenance, things like oil changes and at least looking around for signs of impending problems. It's not that I don't know which end of a wrench to grab, but if even simple PM is a challenge... not so good.

Finally, if there's a link to something like "Everything a Prospective Owner Needs to Know", I'd sure like to see it.
 

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RBEmerson said:
I test rode another K1200RS today and, in ambient air temps of about 90F, my shins were somewhat toasted through my boots. Is there some kind of cure / farkle for this?
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Must be your boots. I commute every day in Clearwater Florida on some of the Nations most dangerous streets and intersections and, while it's hot, especially when I wait through two and sometimes three light cycles, but it isn't unbearable. The temperature needle swings into the red, the fans come on, the temperature goes down, and the fans turn off again.

I don't own any boots. I mostly wear shorts and gym shoes (unless I'm going to work).

I haven't had my RS very long, so I'm not that knowledgable, but I have had the front, bottom, and starboard tupperware off. It's a bit laborious because of all the fasteners, but it isn't difficult. There is a service manual you can dowload and peruse.

http://www.slideshare.net/guestd00407b2/bmw-k1200-rs-gt-repair-manual

Take special note of the fuel line connectors in the window of the right fairing. They are plastic from the factory and very problematic until replaced with something better. There are many threads on the subject.

Good luck, and good riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The Connie generally produced a wave of hot, felt on the lower legs, from the engine bay. With the ride today it was localized to right at my ankle. Anyway, I get the sort of riding you're talking about. We have a friend in Wellington (near West Palm); traffic there can get nuts, too.

As long as pulling the skins is "just" spinning out the fasteners (I bought a speed handle to deal with the after-market hex fasteners holding the Connie's skins in place), easy-peasy. Having a pair of Bimmers (325xi and X3), I have some feeling for the BMW mindset when it comes to making access to things ...ah... interesting.

I snagged the manual via another link (carlsalter.com/something) and plan on going through it ASAP.

I hear you on the fuel connectors. This is a recurring comment and it's already on my radar.
 

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I have an 03 GT and have had several Connies in the past. Taking off the plastic is typical but easy and I dont have any heat issues commuting that are abnormal. The bike will run close to the "red" and the cooling fan runs alot in hot weather. FWIW these are truly awesome bikes and a great used bike value.
 

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RBEmerson, I feel the same heat, HOT, on my shins. I use long pull up socks that go to the bottom of my knee, I have FOX cool shocks for long rides with full leather boots, that also cover up my shins.

I live in a mild weather climate with a temp. between 95 and 113 degrees in summer. It's a dry heat.
If I am just riding in town I will wear long socks and jeans with boots that are short but above the ankle.That way the heat is not to incomfortable.

I have ridden a time or two with dress pants, and dress shoes in the heat and yes it was HOT!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK - the skins are just "be careful and take your time". I can do that.

Thanks for the comment about the temperature climbing to the red before the fans kick in. At least on my Connie, the fan kicked in any time the temperature hit mid-scale on the gauge. When it didn't, it was time to replace the temperature sense switch (did that once).


Funny... I had Fox sox on yesterday, when doing the test ride. My usual boot is a pair of the Combat Lite boots (v. nice once broken in, FWIW) but, because of the thicker sole, I passed on them for a thinner pair of harness boots (yeah, almost H-D gear but I still like 'em). It sounds as though this bit of toasting is a "life's like that - deal with it" thing.

- - -

Another question occurs to me: riding in the wet. I'll confess that I really don't like it. Maybe I was traumatized back when I rode a Yammy YDS-250

Anyway, it looks as though the stock windscreen means a real challenge for any rain suit. How well do Battlax tires do, too?
 

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For short City type riding, I could have left my RS as is. However, since I do a fair amount of all day weekend rides the RS needed some changes.
A few thoughts ...
- the Battlax are ok, but I wouldn't buy another set. Go with something else
- the RS windscreen blows, Upgrading to the GT screen is a decent alternative for the price, The low position on the GT screen is essentially like the high position of the RS screen. So when the GT screen is high it works pretty well. Obviously you could spend some real dough on an aeroflow or others.
- The tupperware is easy enough once you have done it a couple times, just lots of fasteners.
- If you want to ride two up, you'll really need to change seats. The RS seat is pretty much garbage after a couple hours. Also she'll probably slide into you a lot because of the slick nature of the seat. The GT seat is a good affordable alternative. I found one from another member. For us its comfortable up to about 4 hours or so. Our new Russell seat though is very nice and comfy for two-up.
Depending on how tall/short she is you may need the peg lowering kit for her (and you).
- the stealth backrest isn't all that comfortable or practical. Knowing what I know now, I would spend the money on a Givi top box and backrest instead.
This is a great bike to ride and have fun on. It takes a little getting used to because of the weight.
Good luck.
 

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RBEmerson said:
OK - the skins are just "be careful and take your time". I can do that.
How well do Battlax tires do, too?
I am sure that you have read here someplace that there are 3 different length fairing screws.
WHAT EVER YOU DO!! Don't accidentally install long screws where the side fairing is fastened thru the tail/side fairing in 2 places(one screw each side) to the frame tabs under the nose of the seat. There is a possibility that a long fairing screw will hit and rub a hole in the plastic fuel tank.

I have always stayed pretty dry on the KRS. Your legs tuck into the fairing well.

The Bridgestone Battlax 020 tires are just cheap OEM tires used by many manufacturers beside BMW. They suck to varying degrees no matter the bike there on.
The KRS has an awful lot of front end weight adding to the wear on these tires.

The best touring screen I would up with was a GT screen with a Laminar Lip installed. It flipped most of the wind over my helmet and stopped the buffeting. But if your tall (6'-0" or over) your results will be less effective.
Don't put a LL on the stock RS shield, it's a waste of money. In fact if you lived close, I'd give you one to prove my point.
Ztechnik makes a nice shorty shield for summer riding. It delivers a lot less buffeting than the stock shield (to be honest, you get the smoothest air with the shield removed).

A Sargent seat made my KRS an all day(750mi.+) bike.
 

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brucecha said:
I am sure that you have read here someplace that there are 3 different length fairing screws.
WHAT EVER YOU DO!! Don't accidentally install long screws where the side fairing is fastened thru the tail/side fairing in 2 places(one screw each side) to the frame tabs under the nose of the seat. There is a possibility that a long fairing screw will hit and rub a hole in the plastic fuel tank. .
And the upper right screw between the belly pan and side panel, you do not want to poke that one in the radiator hose.....! :teeth And make sure the lower right radiator hose is not rubbing on the plastic, mine was , had started wearing out, so I had to replace it. :(

And lube them "pop off" rubber thingies at the rear of the side panels before reinstalling, next time you wont have to bend the plastic so much to remove it. :wtf:

But you can ride them without the plastic on if you want to check/test things out, that is if you don't mind the ugliness.....! :bmw:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Battlax tires are what's on there, so it's pretty much suck it up and use 'em until they wear out. I'll re-visit alternatives as the tread starts to go. For now it's mostly a question of figuring out what these tires do in the wet and in other lower traction settings. I've never ridden with these tires, hence the questions.

Gotit about the fasteners and getting them back in the right places. I usually either lay fasteners out in some arrangement to tell me in which order they came out or, on occasion, I'll draw a crude outline of the assembly on a hunk of cardboard and stuff the fasteners into the right places in the drawings.

I'll look at the hoses for chafe and add some sort of padding or whatever makes sense if something looks hinky.

BTW, hints for lubing pop-off fasteners: a) never, ever, not even once use Vaseline (or other petroleum-based) grease on them. Instead go with a silicon-based grease. I get mine from, of all places, my scuba shop. Swimming pool supply stores carry another form of this grease although at least the tubes I have all have a bit of a funky odor to them. Still, none of the o-rings that I grease with this stuff have failed. A friend used Vaseline on some large rubber gaskets and... not pretty.

I'm still undecided on how I'll resolve the windscreen issue. Suffice it to say that I actually ended my first test ride, after about five miles, because of the wind issue. OTOH, it's the first time that my S1 (I have this Schuberth fetish, I guess...) actually was cool in temps over about 70F. But this sure isn't the winner for temps in the 30's or 40's. Not by a long shot!

The Connie had a Givi Mono-key box and I may just look for one for the K at some point. The K's PO left a trunk/bag in the right bag, and I'll try that for daily riding. SWMBO isn't big on riding so I have time to decide about a Givi (or similar) with a backrest worthy of the name. I take it the GT saddle is a bolt-on swap?

New question: do the turn signals ever cancel ('03 RS)? I put a Signalminder on the Concours and wouldn't be opposed to doing it on the RS.
 

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RBEmerson said:
New question: do the turn signals ever cancel ('03 RS)? I put a Signalminder on the Concours and wouldn't be opposed to doing it on the RS.
Yes they do. The turn signals have some combo of speed and/or distance driven to cancel out. And they don't shut off after a while when stopped to make a turn. Good system, I'm forever leaving the signals on with my new ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Gotit. I set the Signalminder to time out after 20 seconds (the clock stops when the brakes are on) and I guess I'm still used to that. The one big downside to the Signalminder is it also applies to the four-ways. I've hit them when creeping through a school zone at 15MPH. The Signalminder times out and, because the four-way button is still in, the turn signals stop working.

Still, for bikes with no form of canceling, this is a great option.
 

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I owned a C10 Connie too. Now own K1200RS. C10, very tall and easy to drop in moving by foot power. Bikes within about 30-40 lbs of each other. RS far easier to move around parking lot. C10 was un bearable to ride from June till Sept. because of extreme heat.
RS, I only feel a tad of heat on shins, none on my body.
Connie buzzes like a table saw, numb hands, and forearms. RS is smooth as glass.
RS gets better mileage. Stock seats of both suit me fine.
Performance, straight and curves go to RS.
The best idea BMW had ~ adjustable seat and windsheild.
Remember the C10 was a 1986 model bike with very few updates.
I do believe the RS and GT are nearly the same bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Funny... part of why the RS works for me is that it's a good extension of the C10 in a number of ways. With a proper carb sync job, the C10 can be surprisingly smooth. For some reason, I got a small buzz around 4K on the tach. I added heavier weights to the bars (yea for Murph's Kits!) and that ended that problem. The RS, I'm happy to say, is darn near turbine smooth once off idle. The RS is certainly quicker, rides better, and feels better in turns, but then I'd expect as much from the RS.
 
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