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Discussion Starter #1
I've been having a million things go wrong all convinced me it was inundated during Sandy as I bought the bike from Jersey and have had the ABS pump fail with 2" water line bottom of circuit board inside REPLACED, ZFE bout catch fire REPLACED after that (month's not related) after 5 days torrential rains barely started ran insanely rich running 10mpg after breaking down even pulled plugs cleaned black soot only thing that works is ether for about 1 second fuel ain't coming out injectors pressure switch reads 3.0 BAR just shy of 3.2 minimum of range expected going to try fuel pump motor swap see what's what but it's been running rich why?? I don't have any power commander or other yet might consider buying one to fix problem

P.S.
I have ICOM / ISTA & 147 IQ so I ain't 馃が around and welcome advanced level suggestions
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok got the 3.2 bar threshold ruled out but the fuel strip voltage implausible error will that stop the injectors from releasing fuel into combustion chamber or further trigger the pump motor past initialization upon turning on ignition to feed them ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok sooooo I didn't know what the secondary air system really did but it was not working the valve had failed on top of or as result of a wiring harness problem in a way that didn't trigger the diagnostic issue but putting a good one (2ndary air valve) in revealed it I'm chasing it down here shortly but the black exhaust fouled plugs inability to idle awful fuel mileage... Everything fits.

Besides cleaning plugs O2 sensor and dumping seafoam in the combustion chambers through plug holes leave overnight to soak then open pin back full throttle to allow evaporation then air gun down plug holes repeat with brakleen reinstall plugs coils; what ELSE should I check clean replace??? Might I have fried the coil sticks? I don't have that fancy expensive diagnostic MBOX device to check them won't start to warm up to use a infrared point n shoot thermometer on headers and little tight on funds right now to just replace all 4 to find out that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Spark checked old school with ground cable & alligator clip all 4 signals, coils, and already checked grounds especially at the water pump area of the head that's both the heaviest gauge & closest to spark plugs so I have to assume it's not that the plugs aren't getting ground. Short of a compression test which would be the worst possible cause & news to get but given that EVERY OTHER PCB containing component has failed including the 999999 odometer KOMBI problem (still unresolved); the likelihood of a failed engine where 4 outta 4 cylinders compression rings failed below combustion ratio minimum for ignition is a pretty distant possibility. Maybe carbon buildup on valves from riding motorcycle with the black smoke unburnt fuel etc... I had been contending with ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok got the 3.2 bar threshold ruled out but the fuel strip voltage implausible error will that stop the injectors from releasing fuel into combustion chamber or further trigger the pump motor past initialization upon turning on ignition to feed them ?
I checked this watching the pressure as I was cranking and ISTA lost its shit froze up after throwing an error COMMAND NOT ACCEPTED this also reminded me of the bluetooth obdlink no longer working every time I started the bike requiring unplugging it re-pairing the device and trying to view the motoscan live data after finally getting it running on that start just came back with strange or empty values.
 

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You need to get your diagnostic system sorted first.
Then you need to work through every fault that you find and eliminate it.
Don't add a power commander to correct an undiagnosed fault.
Low fuel pressure will not stop the injectors, it will make them inject for longer - that may be why it is running rich.
You may have low fuel pressure, you may have a faulty pressure sensor.
5 days of rain shouldn't stop anything - that means that something isn't right. Water shouldn't get into the electronics - if it does then the electronics have been opened for some reason, or the seals have failed.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've confirmed all diagnostics every coil every plug sparks and injector 1, 2, 3, & 4 ALL click during test I've tested everything it's capable of running I think it's just "had a stroke" and upon the more demanding task of starting and running it just spazzes out and can't handle it but one injector at a time test works. The other thing my fuel strip has failed but has been failed reading 0 miles till empty and hasn't left me in a pump signal to continue pumping after initial pressurize upon turning the key I think maybe something about it has changed to the type that will strand you from the type that won't as per a GS forum any input there? Will or is it possible that a fuel strip failure prevents the pump from running thinking it is empty thus continuing to maintain fuel pressure until and ongoing after engine starts?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've also procured a new ECU/DWA but it won't allow me to enable a new key post successful replacement in ISTA/P measures plan. It just reads in 72pt font on dash EWS so much for thinking I could get away with getting a unit without the matching key. If there's a trick here I'm all ears!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
You need to get your diagnostic system sorted first.
Then you need to work through every fault that you find and eliminate it.
Don't add a power commander to correct an undiagnosed fault.
Low fuel pressure will not stop the injectors, it will make them inject for longer - that may be why it is running rich.
You may have low fuel pressure, you may have a faulty pressure sensor.
5 days of rain shouldn't stop anything - that means that something isn't right. Water shouldn't get into the electronics - if it does then the electronics have been opened for some reason, or the seals have failed.
Good luck.
5 days of rain while passenger side air filter aftermarket red ones requiring ditching snorkel was missing a retainer wedge allowing water into the airbox and draining into and out of the charcoal canister and mechanically ruining the secondary air valve but not electrically so it didn't trigger an error just didn't open even though solenoid tripped and sounded normal just wasn't opening very much if at all. Both air valve and canister as well as the evap valve after leaving top off center canister out going back where the 12*34 vacuum lines feed into. All 3 replaced as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I pulled the starter relay and seems to operate properly might be a little sticky to reopen after 12v goes away when 12v triggers it immediately closes the load circuit but the ohm reading slowly returns to infinite.

Rest the one relay pin to Negative battery terminal while the other pin via wire alligator clip to B+ to trigger the relay with ohmmeter on other 2 pins and watch the continuity or ohms drop to instant 0 and beeps undo the alligator clip from B+ then the beeping stops and ohms climb up and eventually hit infinite but slow climb. Not as instantaneously as the 0 when triggered but seems the relay is operating out of the socket what should I check the plug female connector for besides the 12V on off with the key on off or key on 0V start button 12v+ then what should the other pins be checked for continuity or VDC or check one pin to ground one to B+ what else what conditions? Might the slow release of the plunger aka sticky relay be the source of the problem? If so can it be cleaned or serviced in any way while waiting for a new one to be procured?

I'm going to remove the fuel rail pull the injectors and inspect them and hopefully they're filthy and blocked with gunk and like an old K1200LT/K75 posting with starting issues and all other possibilities tediously ruled out thoroughly stumped finally checked the injectors after dismissing or avoiding the deeper dive and associated labor involved to remove everything in the way to allow access to be able to remove the fuel rail and injectors from the throttle body to be pleasantly surprised and immediately identifying blocked dirty injectors as the culprit without any doubt. This is the best case scenario for me but I don't know if it is too my problem but I am sure that I am not going exclude that horse just because I have to hunt it down and get rid of the zebra I already have in the trap.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Since removed the 2" spice & plastic coupler originally didn't have anything to remove permanent hose clamp without breaking off the nipple too i.e. cutoff wheel so I've eliminated that from potential bottleneck/ leak failure point. I am thinking the line I'm using might not be rigid enough seems like it's swollen more in some spots than others perhaps it's partially to blame for varying uneven pressure but this is the extreme exaggeration of what it actually looks like or behaving like.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I've gotten through the replacement procedure in ISTA/P but it didn't transpose my VIN number moreover match my key to the donor ECU Bosch BMSK apparently looks as though I'll have to get a KTAG device and do the clone bit for bit or just get an ECU with matching key this time. Do I just need the key matched to the BMSK or will I need the electronics on the tree too? I figure the antenna is just that ring but looks like there might be more stuff there I might need to be matched. I will worry about mileage and vin number later I just need the thing to run its my only way around and uber is MURDERING my wallet. I am never going to sell it so I don't give a crap about 999999 ODO or if the VIN of replacement unit displays it's actual mileage or how much higher it is than whatever actual miles are.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Nope I've got everything the dealer has ISTA/P & D, WinKFP, INPA, you name it they don't clone DME units when replacing they order them by VIN and BMW sends out a replacement preprogrammed with it. I need a K TAG and the KESS isn't sufficient I have seen a YouTube video that a particular Autel device can do it ($1500+++) but even then it's not easily possible for mileage setting. I bought a KESS because it was available for 1 day delivery on Amazon the K TAG was 2 weeks out but I will be ordering it now as well as another BMSK WITH A KEY THIS time in lieu of waiting for the K TAG to come which might not work either. I was able to get the BIN file using the read function of the KESS so I might be able to do the second half of this if I get the software and key writer.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Interesting key symptom I noticed so before starting get an inital +12V on Blue w/Green stripe (+) Pin 1 & Brown (-) Pin 2 going to the fuel pump controller but then after starting I get a 12V+ meters red lead on positive battery terminal and black meter lead on the blue w green wire. I also checked the brown wire to battery negative terminal in Ohms mode which was 0 ohm beeping before starting, during starting goes to negative -9 or -10 ohm then back to 0ohms I did this same test again accidentally on V mode which is how I noticed the above condition. So WTF???! I haven't figured out EWS but ordered an ECU with a key this time so I'll know whether the ECU was the issue by process of elimination but would love to hear thoughts on the above behavior!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've been having a million things go wrong all convinced me it was inundated during Sandy as I bought the bike from Jersey and have had the ABS pump fail with 2" water line bottom of circuit board inside REPLACED, ZFE bout catch fire REPLACED after that (month's not related) after 5 days torrential rains barely started ran insanely rich running 10mpg after breaking down even pulled plugs cleaned black soot only thing that works is ether for about 1 second fuel ain't coming out injectors pressure switch reads 3.0 BAR just shy of 3.2 minimum of range expected going to try fuel pump motor swap see what's what but it's been running rich why?? I don't have any power commander or other yet might consider buying one to fix problem

P.S.
I have ICOM / ISTA & 147 IQ so I ain't 馃が around and welcome advanced level suggestions
NO START:SOLVED: Bone Dry Emptied Gas Tank by cheating the fuel pump supplying 12V until a backup quick disconnect and 2' of clear aquarium tubing watched what came out which didn't visually reveal anything but a batch of fresh gasoline was just what the doctor ordered (I had already emptied the tank very early on but just using gravity pouring out the hole opened on the tank with the ring removed and pump assembly removed apparently the gas I used to refill was stale / contained water or I failed to BONE DRY the tank )

RICH 10MPG RESOLVED:
The original issue was caused by a flaky TPS sensor throttle position sensor that was causing full load condition to evaluate true and w wasn't until I installed the power commander did i see the throttle position flicker @ 100% every few seconds but just for 50ms but only at idle and around 50% did I observe this behavior but I have the bike running like a Singer sewing machine now WOOOOOOHOOOOOOO!!!
 

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Dude, I'm so glad that you got it all figured out!
Now, a prescription for the 'surgeon' - go ride it like you just built it! ('Cause you did!)
Cheers,
Steve
 
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