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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The title says it all-when I activate the left turn signal all 4 signals flash while the right side does as it should.
I have cleaned both left and right switches with electrical contact cleaner and checked the relay box itself (61311459224), with no visible problems on either of the relays, though I did run some fine grit sandpaper across each of the contacts. Each opens and closes to the same degree.
I have checked and changed all turn signal bulbs and disconnected the 4-way flasher switch, all to no avail.
When the problem started, it was an intermittent problem; sometimes working correctly and at other times all 4 flashing. Now I can count on it to reliably flash on all 4 when the left turn signal is activated.
I have wondered if the relay is defective but am reluctant to start replacing parts.
Help is appreciated!

Thanks
 

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Is the starter running strong? I had a similar problem when my starter got so dirty it wasn't grounding. It cause crazy things like turn signals operating the flasher and not canceling...

That said a blown fuse would be a similar culprit.
 

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JonBarleycorn said:
lukeman said:
Is the starter running strong?
QUOTE]

Yes, the starter is running strong and without fault.
Yes it could still run strong but have enough carbon dust accumulated inside to cause electrical gremlins. :banghead: Probably worth looking at anyway, just to make sure it is clean and the brushes are in good shape, lot cheaper to replace brushes than a complete starter. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will try the starter route. Any tricks to removing the starter I should know about and anything to NOT do? Best place to pick up brushes?

Thanks!
 

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Oh yes there is a trick with them starters.....mark the covers and case well so you can realign it correctly and watch where the shaft shims go, they tend to fall out when you open the starter.Other than that they are pretty simple. One of the brushes is permanently attached to the starter plate so has to be ordered with it, about $15.00. I think 6mm is the minimum lenght of the brushes, but dont quote me on that one.

The Haynes manual has quite a lot on starter repairs, here is a link to a free one:
http://www.megauploadbay.com/download.php?id=4242892&name=bmw+k100+amp+k75+haynes+manual+pdf



It has been a while since I worked on a classic K......I dont think you have to remove the tranny like BMW says for the K1200RS...... :teeth
 

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Its pretty easy to do, just had mine apart a month ago. You can get the brushes at a bmw shop fairly cheap. There are two of them, one includes the entire plate the other is just a brush with a spring and wire I believe.

There are line up marks on the starter case, but are typical German vague. I just scored it with a screw driver at spots. Some good electrical cleaner is a must as the communicator gets a nice layer of gunk on it. If yours is like mine it also had some oil residue seep in as well.

It can be a pain to get the brushes back over the communicator since there isn't much wiggle room, get one side in and depressed and go from there. The magnets have tendency to slam things back into place rather abruptly while sliding the case around so a bit of gingerness is required.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey thanks for the link to the manual.
Amazingly enough I have not had need for one yet as issues have been confined to small items such as one fuel pump, changing tires, filters or adjusting valves.
Very maintenance free for the first 25 years!
 

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Yeah seriously, the mechanical stuff is bullet proof...

Though right about now all the electronics might start going. Get familiar with the wiring guide. haha. kidding. kind of :)

Might want to check that the radiator fan spins freely if its original as mine just went.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
H96669 said:
JonBarleycorn said:
Yes it could still run strong but have enough carbon dust accumulated inside to cause electrical gremlins. :banghead: Probably worth looking at anyway, just to make sure it is clean and the brushes are in good shape, lot cheaper to replace brushes than a complete starter. :)
So I opened the starter, and yes there was carbon dust for sure. Shook the dust out and cleaned the starter electrical components with electrical cleaner and rubbed the commutator with a pencil eraser, and cleaned it with electrical cleaner as well.
Brushes were @ 9 MM in length, so good to go there.
Reassembled and installed and worked as it should......except the signals still have the same issue.
Any other ideas would be appreciated.
 

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JonBarleycorn said:
... I have checked and changed all turn signal bulbs and disconnected the 4-way flasher switch, all to no avail...
Well, assuming that it was the flasher switch and not the flasher relay you disconnected, then how's about the flasher relay being goofy? I'm not sure this is relevant, but the IBMWR K bike info. rubric has this that might help. If so, thank them, not me...oh, and http://ibmwr.org/ktech/relay-box.shtml from Mr. Glaves gives you an idea of where the relay is...

Cheers!

Jack S.
 

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I had almost the identical problem. Can almost guaranty it's the flasher relay. My turn signals would work fine with the engine not running and key on. As soon as I started the engine turn signals would 4 way flash. I was pretty sure it was the flasher relay but didn't want to pay $90 to replace it if the problem wasn't in the flasher relay. Found a used one for $25 which I thought was worth it to either fix the problem or eliminate the relay as the culprit. Plugged it in and they work fine.
 

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Just a question on the problem for my own clarity hopefully.?. Could the bulb monitoring relay box cause this problem? My copy of the wiring diagram is black and white and a few circuits did not print out well for my year bike so I am just curious if it could be linked into that or not.

If I had to gues at the problem I would have to guess that the flasher relay is a primary suspect. Next would be some of that wiring burried below the relays and around the fuses. My K-bike had a cooling fan that wouldn't turn on and While traking down a wiring cause I found some wires that had been pinched by a previous repair person that had melted down a few wires.
 

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Thanks for the tip!!!

BBurson said:
Found spring in horn button had broken and partially grounded. Got switch from Duck and cleaned fuse contacts. Problem went away.
Thanks for this pointer. Same situation for myself.

Just picked up a K100RS '85 a few weeks back in sweet dealer maintained shape from a friend of the family. This machine has Nitrous on it and is wired to activate through the heated grips and the horn shoots the boost depending on grip switch position. Suddenly today when I needed the horn to alert a cager, it did not work yet the heated grip switch was in the proper position, then the signals started acting up.

Before wasting time messing around chasing gremlins that may or not be there, I did some internet research and found this thread.

I pulled the assembly and went after the horn switch and found the contact pin a little green in a couple of places so I cleaned it up (along with the internal contacts), stretched the spring a wee bit to give it a bit more return actuation power and then reassembled it, gave it a test and no joy :(

A quick check of the fuse box found the horn fuse was now toasted. Replaced that and it worked perfectly including the nitrous on position.

I thank you for posting this and saving me tons of time and money! I hope others find this too!

John
 
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