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Discussion Starter #81
Ok new test today that I believe is more inline (accurate?) with these new QD's and the set up.

Gauge started out reading at Zero PSI in the system.
6 Seconds after turning on key switch - Gauge read 44 PSI.
Gauge dropped to 40 PSI within 10 minutes with key in "ON" position.
Shut key off.
Gauge dropped to 39 PSI after another 10 minutes
Came back after 2 hours and gauge read 36 PSI.
Now some 5 hours later gauge reads 22 PSI.

Did not "run" testing this time.

I guess I'll go inside tank again and pull out the pump and check it out closely.
 

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Are you saying the pump ran for 6 seconds til it pressurized up to 44? It shouldn't do that,max 2 seconds and pressure up to +50.
Unless you have the same problem I encountered (and fixed)a couple weeks ago.I'll wait for an answer to my question.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
No, I'm following Sailor's instructions so I didn't take the reading until after I "waited" 6 seconds. It primed right away but only to 44 PSI.

Took more reading today.

Overnight gauge did not drop to zero and still read 15 PSI
Turned on key and gauge read 46 PSI
Dropped to 44 PSI right away (within 6 seconds)
Dropped to 43 within the next 20 seconds
Dropped to 41 PSI after 2 minutes
Dropped to 41 PSI after 10 minutes
Shut key off at 10 minutes and gauge held at 41 PSI
Dropped to 40 PSI after 40 minutes
Dropped to 31 PSI some 4 hours later.
 

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I think the fuel pump is dying.Altough not tested on a K a R1200GS runs like crap at ~46psi fuel pressure from in that case a defective fuel pressure regulator.

One way to somehow test the pump is to disconnect the return line ,flick ignition on/off and deadhead the pressure against the gauge.~85psi.

Also....I just replaced my 02 sensor.That wasn't my only problem but them misses at 3500-4000 altough maybe not as pronounced as yours are a sure sign of defective O2.Now back to a BrapBrapBrap sounding engine at 4000rpm instead of the BrapatateBrapatateBrapatate and also slight surging at low speeds I was noticing.

The real problem with my bike was the pump staying on instead of just priming.Intermitently too.....turned out the Motronic relay was the cause.

Fuel pump relay....Motronic relay....Horn etc are all the same so if you suspect one replace with the horn relay.
 
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Discussion Starter #85
Ok I did disconnect return line at QD and blipped the key on/off and did see the gauge go over 80 PSI and then drop when I shut off.

Sitting at 59 PSI an hour after shutting off with return line disconnected.

About the O2 sensor, it did indicate it was working properly on the Motoscan app (cycling) when bike was warmed up. I do see "white" exhaust fumes (from Catalytic Converter?) when bike is cold and goes away after warm up.

Did you test your O2 sensor (with 911 etc) or did you do it while troubleshooting the pump relay?
 

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My Bosch pump is rated at 85psi and that is what I get.I don't know about the BMW OEM VDO but most if not all the aftermarket are 85psi.

If MY pump was showing low pressure like yours I would replace it.They are cheap enough!

O2 sensor was seat of the pants first as I noticed the slight surging at low RPMs and erratical engine revs at 3500-4000.

Got back home connected the GS911 and the sensor was flatlining.Hum I couldn't relate that to my other problem which was idle dipping down but I got a new sensor anyway.On milleage alone that one was at the preventive replacement recommendation.

Installed it went for a ride,everything good til I stopped and restarted.Idle dip came back.....went back home connected the pressure gauge and found out the pump wasn't stopping after 2 seconds of prime.Replaced the fuel pump relay with a good spare but that wasn't it, the Motronic relay was defective.

At one time or the other over 300ks I think but for the fans and horn relay all the other ones were replaced.Low milleage spares for the Motronic and fuel pump relays a couple weeks ago.

And......I had to wait a few days for my new sensor.I tried to start my bike one morning,wouldn't start less I gave it throttle and did it ever miss once started.
 

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I gave you the O2 sensor number early on? In any case that is a NTK 25542.

Pump I don't know.I am running a Bosch 69222, now at +140,000kms and still quiet.But it took some adaptation to fit the Bosch on the K1200.

The Quantum (Formerly Hi-Flo????) has been used by some.Recently on the Farcebook K1200RS/GT page? But usual thing over there (and most forums) is recommending a product or such without any milleage/durability tests.

Still pretty darn cheap considering new filter/regulator etc that comes with it?
 

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I'll throw something in here for you.Liquid filled pressure gauges can show lower than actual if the gauge gets hot.Hot from hot fuel? If only a few quarts in the tank the fuel gets rather hot when running at idle.

So it goes that for any increase in gauge "case pressure" the indicated pressure will decrease by the same.My liquid filled gauge reads ~3psi low if the fuel is hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Received the new pump kit and "fitted" it as well as replacing the fuel pressure regulator. I've also replaced the short hose off the filter (which I had not done when fitting the other filters) and now need to wait for 2 new clamps for the hose.
 

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Short hose(s) is a spec SAE30R10 for submersible fuel line.DO NOT replace with regular FI line(SAE30R9)
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Now you've averted anther mistake I made....:oops::unsure:

Ok, I've pulled unit back out of tank and ordered a 6" piece of SAE30R10 off EBAY that I'll have to wait to arrive.

I had the clamps right under my nose here and so I put them on and "had" installed the unit.

One question I'll ask now that time's on my side!!!

This aftermarket pump has a long filter screen on it. It appears to fit up into the "nose" of the tank at the front but little concerned about that functioning properly.

Thx Dan
 

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Screen will be fine,not what is in my bike now shorter(?) but at one time or another that same longer one was in there.

Ouf....very bad idea the non-submersible line.Has been tested and 1-3 months they'll fail.😟
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Yea had a shorter one I pulled from the unit and the long one came with this kit. Thx!!

Yes, glad I checked with you before moving forward and "screwing" things up.

Here is the 6" SAE30R10 line I purchased and cut/replaced with that non submersible line!! :)
 

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If anyone is interested I bought a foot of sae30r10 years ago.I used a short length to replace the pump to filter piece and the rest (8-10") I used as a long U to replace the short U.

2016 and 145,000 km later all good.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Well, dropped in the new fuel pump and put fuel in tank. Started bike and took for a ride (approx 5 miles). Surging came back as I rode it and vibrating at speed. When I pulled back into garage, the idle dropped suddenly and bike started backfiring!!

I shut bike off thinking that it cam out of time.

Later I did check fuel pressure without running bike.
Turned Key on and pressure jumped over 50 psi and then settled at 48 psi.
After minute dropped to 46 psi.
Dropped to 43 psi after 5 minutes.
Remained at 43 psi for over 30 minutes.
Checked after 3 more hours and it was at 37 psi.
After a day it dropped down to about 4 psi but still not zero.

I've pulled the valve cover. Should I follow the procedure in manual and pull the timing cover to check timing marks at crank and cams?
 

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I think the fuel pump is dying.Altough not tested on a K a R1200GS runs like crap at ~46psi fuel pressure from in that case a defective fuel pressure regulator.

One way to somehow test the pump is to disconnect the return line ,flick ignition on/off and deadhead the pressure against the gauge.~85psi.

Also....I just replaced my 02 sensor.That wasn't my only problem but them misses at 3500-4000 altough maybe not as pronounced as yours are a sure sign of defective O2.Now back to a BrapBrapBrap sounding engine at 4000rpm instead of the BrapatateBrapatateBrapatate and also slight surging at low speeds I was noticing.

The real problem with my bike was the pump staying on instead of just priming.Intermitently too.....turned out the Motronic relay was the cause.

Fuel pump relay....Motronic relay....Horn etc are all the same so if you suspect one replace with the horn relay.
I'll quote my earlier post.Idle dips and backfires were the symptoms of the stuck Motronic relay.
 

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..
....
I've pulled the valve cover. Should I follow the procedure in manual and pull the timing cover to check timing marks at crank and cams?
In case of doubt, it is NOT a bad idea to check camshafts marks / alignment. Of course, it depends who was there before you - some mistakes can be done when doing either (1) valves adjust OR (2) timing chain liners / guide replacement.

HOWEVER, it is NOT needed to remove timing-chain cover - you only need to remove this cover to fix an oil leak OR to do the timing chain liners / guide.

To checks chamshaft marks, this is what I do:
1) remove all 4 spark-plugs and engage gearbox in 6th gear (easier to shift gears on center-stand while rocking wheel back-forth)

2) remove valve cover (you already did this as I can see)

3) since the bolt located on front of crankshaft (under hall effect) is not easy to acces with radiator hose in place, I use the rear wheel rotation forward to move crankshaft / piston in proper direction.

4) using a long thin wood piece (like use to make skewer OR an old long pencil) move Piston number 1 (front) at top-dead-center. You may need to go back and forth a few times to be 100% at Top-Dead-Center - if you do move back once, then make sure you rotate one more turn as you do not want ANY camchain slack. The camchain is under tension only when you rotate in normal engine direction (counter clockwise as see from front of engine). Of course, the wheel rotated forward in 6th gear is proper engine rotation - this is much easier to do with a helper rotating wheel while you carefully feel TDC with your wood piece.

5) when piston is at TDC , confirm if marks on both camshafts (rear end part) are both perfectly horizontal. This is shown in CLYMER in Chapter 4 at page 90-91 depending of your edition - I have the 1st edition. There are 2 pictures in CLYMER to guide you: the horizontal indent at end of camshafts AND the triangle in both camshafts sprokets (around page 90-91).

If you make sure your piston 1 is perfectly at TDC using this method, it is NOT needed to remove front timing cover to check marks of small sprocket (under hall effect) as shown in CLYMER at page 90.

P.S.: Forgot to add an alternative method in my original message:
as an alternative to rear wheel in gear (to turn crankshaft slowly), you can use a 19 mm wrench and turn the Intake CamShaft in proper engine direction with transmission in neutral. I tend to avoid mentionning this as there are 2 issues to take care:
(a) all spark-plugs MUST be removed to avoid added effort of compresion on CamChain (streching it over a normal effort).

(b) this tend to leave some CamChain slack between crankshaft and intake CamShaft - it may falsefy reading the marks if the chain is old and streched.
This is not an issue when you are rotating the rear wheel (or the front bolt under hall-effect) as all the slack goes where it should - pushed by the lower rail by CamChain tensionner.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Ok

I've checked timing several times to ensure piston 1 was at TDC. And as the pictures indicate its in time and has not changed at all since the valve adjustment/bucket swap.

Cam chain sprockets are both vertical pointing straight up. And the slots in the end of each cam shaft are horizonal as outlined in Clymer manual pages 90/91.

My only concern is that I checked the clearance on the Intake/exhaust valves again and 3 Intake valves are tight.

Intake
Cyl 1 - 006/006 - Good
Cyl 2 - 006/005 - One Tight
Cyl 3 - 005/006 - One Tight
Cyl 4 - 005/006 - One Tight

Ext

Cyl 1 - 010/010 - Good
Cyl 2 - 010/010 - Good
Cyl 3 - 010/010 - Good
Cyl 4 - 010/010 - Good

Note: I have details of the measurements I took and Buckets I swapped/replaced when I originally did the work.

And the next thing I'll do is check/swap the Horn/Medtronic replays and see what that does. m
 

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