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I doubt the OP needs a timing check yet.Most probably from the early signs a HallSensor going bad.Going then but not well tested? Gone now could be easier testing?An oscilloscope would be nice?Clymer page 290.

I rotated the plate quite a few degrees either way with engine running,from 0 to 10BTDC and never misfired.

Replacing the HallSensor providing the marks were done on the OEM ? Take references between old/new and mount exactly in the same position.

But just in case as I think some of the K100 stuff may be missing here are the marking specs.The 6BTDC mark is the only one needed.
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For Pierre,
Thanks for the hand drawing and angle calculations - will keep it as a reference - might save me some time one day ;-)

For all others,
Based on "real-time" data log while riding with GS911 plugged, I have seen that most of the time the K1200RS engine will spend time in these range of ignition advance:
1) Idling (warm engine): 10 to 12 degrees
2) 3000 - 3500 RPM: 22 to 27 degrees
3) 3500 - 4000 RPM: 27 to 32 degrees
4) 4000 - 4500 RPM: 32 to 37 degrees

We have to keep in mind that on any EFI control system, these ignition-advance values will also vary based on throttle angle opening AND engine temperature (in addition to RPM).

Thus, we can conclude that give or take 2 degrees of Static setting when installing the Plate (4 instead of 6) , this will not change much "real-life" engine performance. However , setting it at PLUS 2 to 4 degrees might make it "higher risk" IF you fill with cheap low octane fuel - the "brick-engine" K1200 platform does NOT have any knock sensor protection.
 

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Yep 10-12 degrees at idle.That's what I was reading with the timing light.So yes one can time or check timing with the light providing it has an adjustable advance.Connect light,start engine, dial light to 10-12 and then the TDC/timing marks should line up (or very close).

I borrow my buddy's cheap Princess Auto,my rather old light does not have adjustment.


All fun.....no straight direct access to the timing port so I use a mirror attached to the forks and point the strobe at the mirror.

And there aren't any benefits at advancing timing for performance unless it is for street racing or such.Gains in the low end will be negated by losses in the high ranges and potential engine damages in the long term.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Thx folks, again a load of good information and direction for more testing.

A couple notes,

1) Before any work or testing I did not have "the backfire condition" and only began experiencing it the last two runs around the block. No changes to any components have been recently done outside of the new fuel pump and internal hoses.

2) Considerable time was spent on the HALL Sensor wiring at the plug (due to bare wiring) and testing with the Homemade Diode board. But my concern with the testing (and associated backfiring) was my test with the HALL Sensor warm (About 180 with hair dryer. I did note perform a complete revolution to turn the "bulb" on several times when lite but just saw it light once.

3) I did follow procedure to mark the plate with marker prior to touching it but can only suspect NOW that it's a timing issue for sure.

I'll get to the testing outlined (again?) and report back.

I have a cheap timing line I've attached to the plug wires before but only to view flash from spark. Not convinced of that testing either.
 
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