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Edit to that post above. It seems I spoke too soon, as the solid red brake failure warning is back on the display. Looks like I will be checking fluid levels and pad wear then diving in deeper. May get GS911 to see if any codes are showing.

**Update**

So, pads and brake fluid levels are OK. Road test showed I was able to skid the rear wheel so ABS is non-functional.

I plan to get a GS911 and see if any codes show, and I'll check the original equipment battery for charge level, but....

....looks like I'm screwed with major ABS Modulator/Pump Whatever $$$ failure. Bike is 08 out of warranty. I'll see what BMW Daytona has to say.
 

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If the ABS is working per your test, it does sound more like a low terminal voltage problem with the battery than the ABS pump going south (which will cost you maybe $2,500 in BMW dollars + labor). Some of the older RT's had big issues with using some batteries (Westco & Panasonic) that had a bit lower terminal voltage that triggered the ABS light if they sat too long.

Just a thought...


Mack
 

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As I stated the ABS test FAILED, the tire skidded. However, I will be testing the battery and replacing if needed before I commit to ABS repair.
 

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lhendrick said:
As I stated the ABS test FAILED, the tire skidded. However, I will be testing the battery and replacing if needed before I commit to ABS repair.
Opps. Never mind. I thought it was "skipped skidding" as in what ABS does.

Doesn't sound good though. Wonder if anyone has found whomever rebuilds this things? Supposedly, there was a guy who worked for Bosch at one time in Europe doing it for $300. Surely there is someone in the USA too...someplace. Least you got the cheaper one rather than the servo-assisted one that is $2,500 on the older ones like mine. Seems anything that goes south on these bikes is $2,000 now.

Those Victory's are looking nicer and nicer with their new 5-year warranty that seems rare to use as compared to BMW. Least my GT got to visit a lot of different shops in the 3-year warranty window, but it seems to have quieted down a bit now and hopefully the manual cam chain tensioner will keep it from cratering the engine.


Mack
 

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posts

With the Odyssey battery do I have to buy posts or will those come off my original battery? Haven't looked at it recently.
 

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MikeR GT said:
With the Odyssey battery do I have to buy posts or will those come off my original battery? Haven't looked at it recently.
The Odyssey battery comes with two screw holes and matching screws. You can take your existing cable(s) with the ring terminals and put the screws through them to connect them to the battery. You lose the convenient 90 degree "L" fitting that the OEM battery has.

Based on a suggestion from Meese, I removed the 90 degree "L" fittings from the original BMW OEM battery and used a grinder to smooth the protrusions, until they were flat "L"s.

I pinched the main motorcycle cable ring terminals under the bottom of the "L" fittings and ran a screw through them to the battery so that the main cables would normally stay attached to the battery. Next, I used a nut and bolt to attach the other wires (farkles, etc.) to the "risers" on the "L" fittings. This made it easy to disconnect the battery in one step without having to hold the farkle connectors together, and made it easier to make changes to the farkle wiring without having to deal with the heavy battery cables. Schweet!

(Thanks go to Meese for the great idea!)
 

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Any thoughts on what I should be seeing when I measure voltage on a fully charged up battery? 12V, 13V, etc?? Thanks. I just want to eliminate the battery as a culprit before I commit to expensive ABS repair. (battery is original equipment 2008 K1200GT), so 3 years old now. I suppose I should replace it anyway for peace of mind.
 

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After having the bike continuously on a tender I have 12.5 - 12.7 volts measured at the battery terminals? How does that compare. Does it indicate a weak battery? Should I replace now?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
lhendrick said:
After having the bike continuously on a tender I have 12.5 - 12.7 volts measured at the battery terminals? How does that compare. Does it indicate a weak battery? Should I replace now?
I had my bike on the battery tender and the resulting voltage was 12.6. But, after a few short moments of cranking, idling a bit, the voltage dropped below 11. The battery should have a longer time at the correct voltage. A load test on a battery is the real way to check on the capapcity of a battery.
My Odyssey can now sit for a longer time and keep up the voltage.. I took my old BMW POS 2 yr battery and charged it up off the bike, and had a load test done, FAILED.
I usually replace the OEM at the 3rd season, my OEM just did not make it past 2 yrs.My dealer said that he would give me a coupon for $50.00 good on naything in the store.. Nice goodwill gesture on their part.
 

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So what voltage do you get now with the Odyssey? Is it closer to 13V?
 

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My battery died on my bike when it was 2 weeks old, dealer of course was going to replace it with a Exide or whatever the BMW battery is. I put in the Odyssey and never looked back.

I also never bother with battery tenders, I ride daily and in 2 years time the most the bike has sat without being used was 2 weeks (twice).

Someone else mentioned in this thread the Victory's are looking pretty good with their warranty, my last bike was a Victory, my next bike will be another Victory. I have 1 year left on my factory warranty then its back to a Vic. I will miss the GT big time but I am cheap, I only want to buy the bike once, not many times over with things breaking all the time.
 

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Ordered the Odyssey (Battery Mart $124, free shipping).
 

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simply change the battery don't try to rev the battery if it is dead.

use deep cycle battery it will work for a long time

i am using from 3 years and still it is in good condition.

check best deep cycle batteries for best options of deep cycle battery.
 

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ogada, you do realize you're replying to a thread whose last post was almost NINE YEARS AGO, don't you?

let it die, says I.
 

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Dead Battery

Have you thought about the LiFeO type battery as a replacement? These new generation batteries seem to be the best for us in So. Cal.. Unfortunately, I did not discover this before my battery failed in my 08. FYI, Here is the site:

Lithium Iron (Ion) Phosphate Motorcycle Batteries

Something to think about.
EJ
Hi Everyone; I'm new here, but just picked up a nice '10 K1300 GT which will be a replacement for my classic '03 1200 GT. As it's a 2010, and has the original battery in it, and seems to be a little weak, I decided to try a lithium battery in it. I have one in my classic 1200 GT and it works great. Unfortunately the CAN bus system in the 1300 doesn't like it! I got all kinds of strange electrical problems like "master caution", "brake failure", warnings and the speedo dropping out for anywhere from a split sec to over a second. I charged the old battery, put it back in and no warnings or issues of any kind.
So my question is two fold; Did I do any damage to anything? Will there be a bunch of codes to clear by the dealer or a GS911? Has anyone else had any experience with a lithium battery and our CAN bus system?
Thanks!
 
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